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Everything posted by 80LPC

  1. 80LPC

    Cable Crackle

    Do these cables have semiconducting layers ? These reduce handling noise (crackles) and static. Cables with this layer are sometimes callled 'double shielded'. Cables can also become noisy with time and use - especially if they are trodden on or subject to force. As Yoda says, if you get the noise when you twist the plug at the guitar socket, the contacts could be faulty or need cleaning.
  2. Yes - as I said, there's the case for playing the guitar rather than worrying about cosmetic issues.
  3. BentonC - there's a lot to be said for working with the strengths and minimising the weak points of old gear ! 1960's sounds were mentioned above, and I love those late 60's rock sounds. However, for someone working from home with constraints placed on volume, it remains an elusive sound.
  4. Movement is inevitable with all laminated constructions - it's just a case of when and by how much. I would be tempted to refinish it - the beauty of nitro-cellulose is the ability to blend in new lacquer, and done properly the value wouldn't be affected. In fact to many people it's value would probably be higher. New lacquer would melt the original finish and darken the crack - even if it didn't melt original pigment, the refractive index would change as the lacquer was drawn into the crack and it would appear darker. But... there's the case for just letting thing be, and concentrating on playing rather than small cosmetic issues.
  5. Nice tone with the SG Tommy ! Are you using built - in amp simulation ? I use an old Roland VS multitrack which can be tricky to use and does not have an intuitive interface - essential settings are buried under layers of menus. FX really have come a long way since I bought this - the amp sims are dreadful. The lack of USB also hinders things. However, I do like the large layout with long travel channel faders and virtual routing etc. I am trying to move back to an all analog amp and FX chain at present. I just made a Dallas Rangemaster clone, and in the same box is going to be a VOX Tonebender circuit and a further fuzz circuit of my own design. The amp goes into an isolation cab I made with 2 mics.
  6. But the neck can't keep resetting itself day after day... Eventually it will become stable. Using a string as a 'straight edge' across all the frets is a bad idea. It does not give you the true picture. If you really want to find out what is happening, you need a very accurate machined straight edge (do not use a long steel ruler). This requires some skill because you have to make small truss rod adjustments. Also, it needs natural backlighting so that you can see exactly which frets are low or high. If you use artificial light, you will make mistakes. Trust me - this takes some experience to get right. Once the high frets have been identified, you need to examine them closely - are they higher because they are not seated correctly ? If they are seated properly, they can be carefully reduced in height. By doing it this way, you preserve fret height in the best possible way. Sometimes, you will see people stoning or filing the frets along the entire length which is madness... As I said, check relief at the 6th fret - this is the traditional Gibson method. Set the relief to 0.2mm - not 1mm. Unless you are intending to play slide...
  7. Check, and if necessary adjust the neck to give you 0.2mm of relief. Set your string height to give no buzzing or choking. Now, measure the string height at the 12th fret and let us know what this is.
  8. If the guitar was previously in a dry environment and your environment is more humid, this will happen. It can also happen with a change to lighter gauge strings and / or lower tuning. Ideally the neck relief needs to be carefully measured (with the guitar in the playing position). Capo the first fret and press the first string between the 12th and 13th frets. Now measure the relief at the 6th fret (distance between the top of the fret and the underside of the string). You can use auto feeler gauges for this. The relief should be between 4 and 12 thousandths of an inch (0.1 - 0.3mm). Work your way across all 6 strings noting the clearance. Some players actually prefer the neck to be perfectly straight, but it is important to have the frets carefully leveled to prevent annoying buzzes. That's a high action in those pictures...
  9. $60.....? Nice find ! - it's a '65 - '75 T top. http://home.provide.net/~cfh/paf.html
  10. It looks like the coded (137 / 138, 372 / 373, 498 / 499) Shaw's did begin mid 1980, but production might have started prior to this with only the inked date codes. I wouldn't remove the covers, but you could measure the DC resistance (I think Shaw's were around 7.3 K). http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131541 http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153465 "Shaw's PAF reissue debuted on Gibson's new Nashville-made Les Paul Heritage 80 in 1980". http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/pickups/29212-tim-shaw-pickup-info-please.html
  11. Here's an interesting thread on MLP where it's suggested that the inked codes (137 /138, 372 /373, 498 /499) began in mid 1980, but prior to this Shaw's were made with only the inked date codes. http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=131541 http://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=153465 "Shaw's PAF reissue debuted on Gibson's new Nashville-made Les Paul Heritage 80 in 1980". http://www.mylespaul.com/forums/pickups/29212-tim-shaw-pickup-info-please.html
  12. Since many tuning problems are caused by the nut, you could find yourself in the same situation with locking tuners - and a devalued guitar. Try lubing the nut and keep your windings at the posts to a minimum. Also use the string locking technique where the end of the string is trapped underneath the windings.
  13. Interesting - it's been said many times, but nothing is /was set in stone with Gibson. I do remember a UK magazine review in 1979 of The Paul and The SG. The Paul had T tops, with The SG having T top at neck and velvet brick (with T top bobbins) at bridge. Do you have a picture of yours ?
  14. Mmmm 70mm is a 2.75 inch action... Now if it's 0.7mm - that is low...
  15. The Shaw's definitely came in around mid 1980 - my early '80 LP Custom missed out on them. They have the inked code and date, no T top bobbins and slightly larger rough cast magnets (like the original PAF's).
  16. Here is an original The Paul from 1979 with T tops. Each pickup has 6 chromed screws and 6 tarnished polepieces - just like the ones on dtbradio's Paul. There's a rumour that some DF's did not have 12 screws per pickup. Apparently, these have 3 magnets as opposed to the usual 1. In any case, I don't recall DF's being specified for The Paul...
  17. Dirty Fingers have 12 adjustable screws. These will be T tops which were a standard fitment. Nice 2 piece body - it was POT luck what you got...
  18. T tops sound good, but this isn't a Tim Shaw pickup - they didn't have the T top bobbins. Shaw's have an inked code and date stamp. 137 is neck, 138 is bridge.
  19. The truss rod (a Gibson invention) has greatest effect between the nut and the 12th fret. The relief fades away at the 12th fret. Here's the Golden Rule - straight from a Gibson set up document from the 1960s. The only criticism I have is that a capo should be placed at the first fret to rule out a badly cut nut. Note the clearance 5 to 10 thousandths of an inch. As I said before, this presumes the frets are nice and level prior to setting the relief.
  20. 0.6mm of relief is a huge amount. I recall Gibson recommending 4 to 12 thousandths of an inch (0.1 - 0.3mm). It's important to measure relief in the traditional Gibson way - capo at the first fret and press the string between the 12th / 13th frets. Then measure relief at the 6th fret. Also, make sure to check relief with the guitar in the playing position - not laid down. Some players prefer no relief at all, but the frets have to be leveled to a high standard (and the bridge has to raised slightly higher to reduce buzz). 8 Thou (0.2mm) is a good compromise. As always, much depends on level frets - it's the essential first step in the set up process.
  21. Thanks for posting - will have to check out more. I can hear his influence on Pat Martino.
  22. Stainless steel. Tman, your strings don't have a titanium coating. The wound strings are coated in enamel. The plain strings are not. All the strings have a titanium twist lock at the ball end.
  23. 80LPC

    64 SG Jr

    With the 2 knobs placed on the chassis, I thought it had been modded. I usually have the preamp between 4 and 7 - it's amazing how much crunch is on tap.
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