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Everything posted by 80LPC

  1. Here it is : http://www.stewmac.com/FreeInfo/Hardware_installation/Guitar_hardware/i-4616.html Unfortunately, it's just another variation on the Bigsby type action where the bridge saddles have to cope with something they were never designed for. The bridge also moves with changes in string tension - all these systems are 'mechanically challenged' ! If you really want to use this type of trem, it might be an idea to look into a replacement bridge with roller saddles.
  2. A longer string length has to be tensioned more to bring it to the same pitch as a shorter string.
  3. 80LPC

    when to refret?

    It depends on the depth of the grooves. If they are deep, it's a waste of time filing them. Bear in mind that there is no such thing as 'just' level the frets. It requires skill and experience to do this properly. Has your fretboard become scuffed by the wound strings ? This is a sure sign that the frets are low. Some players who do not bend strings much can get by with low frets, but clean fretting of chords can become tricky, and the guitar becomes unpleasant to play.
  4. 80LPC


    Presumably, you have been able to adjust the intonation correctly before ? Are you trying to adjust the intonation with old strings ? If your strings are new, are your pickups too close to the strings ? Check also for damage to the nut. Of course, if the action is too high you could possibly run out of adjustment also.
  5. I think 'cheese hole drill/guitar incidents' stink. (Pun intended). Especially the ones carried out on LP bodies by the factory. mmmm.....to drill, or not to drill. That is the question.
  6. Partly influenced by a Frank Zappa interview where he said that his 'pudgy' Gibson necks were shaved down, I did the same to my SG in 1982. I then refinished the entire guitar in high gloss cellulose, (originally had been matt finish). The neck is 0.8" at the first fret, and still a slightly pudgy 0.97" at the 12th. Looking back, maybe I was a victim of the 'thinner must be faster' syndrome. As the years passed I came to appreciate the qualities of standard, and deep V neck profiles (the F word). I found that playing 'thumb over' rhythm felt better with a chunky neck because there was a sense of being better connected somehow. The tone benefits are obvious, as the neck is both stronger and stiffer. Ultimately, I try to adapt to each guitar's neck profile.
  7. Nice idea, but the lead on the strap means that you can easily add/remove material to create the perfect balance point. Plus, your guitar remains standard.
  8. I can't help but wince at the idea of taking a large block of quality timber, and turning half of it to dust. In a world of diminishing resources, is this the best we can come up with ? Where's that guy who had the great idea of a semi - solid that was called the log or something.....Now that was smart !
  9. I shaved down and refinished this SG's neck.
  10. Here is a couple of pictures of the side mounted socket. It looks a very solid location. I could never resist altering the wiring on my guitars, so I had coil taps and series/parallel switches on a plate round the back. Looks like the body is damaged, but it's just masking tape.
  11. I think you need to gain experience before tackling a set-up on this guitar. A slight mistake working on your Lucille could be very costly. Work on cheap guitars until you fully understand all the principles. If you can turn a piece of junk into a sweet player, it's a start....
  12. To post an image you could upload your picture to Photobucket. Then copy the direct link. Click on 'add reply' and select the image icon. Place the cursor between the square brackets that appear, and right click, paste the direct link. Click on preview to check if you have succeeded. You might find out more from a dedicated Kramer forum like this one : http://www.kramerforum.com/forum/
  13. 80LPC

    Made in USA ?

    My 1980 Custom says 'made in Germany' on the bridge.
  14. 80LPC

    Tuning problems

    5/32 (3.9mm) is certainly very handy for concealing dubious fretwork and uneven fretboards. My friend with a Yamaha SG3000 was always envious of my SG's action. I checked it over and found that the fretboard had a slight 'roller- coaster' type undulation. I sorted it out, and the playabilty was amazing. Likewise, when I bought a Japanese 50s Strat reissue, the action was 3mm, and the frets were all over the place. I know what you mean about the binding - it's scraped in by hand, and it can be decieving. My 'The SG' is unbound, and you can sight down the sides of the fretboard and clearly see the relief. Some of the scraping on my Custom leaves something to be desired, as it has been carried out a bit too enthusiastically and marked the fretboard playing surface. - Oh well, that's the 'human touch' for you. I have to say you are doing very well to get an action of 1/32 (0.79mm) on the 1st string with no buzzing. It sounds like your neck is adjusted spot-on for a low action. One thng I forgot to mention when checking the relief with the string method, is that the guitar must be in the normal playing position.
  15. I make them from old credit cards. Cut out with scissors, and smooth with a file. Last a lot longer than expensive celluloid, and you can produce exactly the shape you want. It's a great way to recycle !
  16. It seems the Les Paul is slowly turning into an acoustic guitar with a pair of humbuckers...
  17. To ease pain in hands, have you tried soaking your hands in warm water before playing ? Regarding the imbalance, the lead is a good idea, and I remember a wide strap that I bought years ago had a pocket sewn into either end of the strap. If you had something similar, you could put the lead into the pocket at the rear of the guitar, and it would keep your guitar completely stock. I think wrapping the lead in tape would be best to avoid contamination etc. I suppose you could just tape the lead straight onto an ordinairy strap that does not have a pocket.
  18. 80LPC

    Tuning problems

    Good to hear that your truss rod is working fine - from the way you described the curvature of the neck, it sounded like the truss rod had given up the ghost ! Using a good quality straight edge along the fretboard tells the real story. You can also press a string at the 12th fret, and with the index finger of your left hand press the same string at the 1st fret. You now have a 'straight edge'. Look at the clearance of the string as it passes over the the 5th fret. The 5th fret is mid-way between the nut and the 12th fret, and the clearance indicates the amount of relief that the neck has. Try this on each string - the clearance should be consistent. Some guitarists prefer zero clearance (no relief), but there is a price to pay as the bridge needs to be raised to prevent buzzing. I prefer a small clearance for a low action. An action of 1/16 is 1.58 mm, and I consider this to be a low/medium action. With carefully levelled frets, and just a hint of relief, an action of 1 mm on both the 1st and 6th strings is possible. Hard picking will produce a slap of the string against the frets, and this naturally affects sustain. But chords are so much easier, and legato and tapped lines are effortless. By the way, an action of 3/32 (2.38 mm) is most definitely high ! When an action is this high, the frets can be quite uneven, and yet there will be no buzzing. High actions hide a multitude of sins !
  19. My 1979 'the SG' has the socket on the side also. I don't think there is any disadvantage at all, In fact I would say it's a definite advantage because the cable is well out of the way. The model that replaced mine (firebrand SG) also had the same socket position. Maybe it's not so rare, but it's not common either.
  20. 80LPC

    Tuning problems

    Interesting....Some necks are a little slow to respond to a truss rod adjustment. But, there could be a problem. It might be an idea to let another tech check your guitar over.
  21. 80LPC


    Do you mean an open E buzz at the 12th fret, or when you have have fretted the 12th ? If the latter, there is no way a neck adjustment will make any difference because the truss rod is designed to add/remove relief, and there is no relief in this region. Your action could simply be too low, or there could be uneven fret height. Other buzzes can be pickups or mounting rings etc that are buzzing sympathetically.
  22. 80LPC

    Tuning problems

    That's right, heavier gauges do give better tuning stability, as well as better and louder tone. But they take a while to get used to, and make bends and legato more difficult. It's interesting how you mention that the bridge needed lowering for the new strings. If this was the case, it is very likely that the truss rod requires an adjustment also. How much relief does your neck have ? What is the height of the action on the 1st and 6th strings at the 12th fret and the last fret ?
  23. 80LPC

    Tuning problems

    Even if you could eliminate the problems at the nut, you still have the horror of a trem system that moves the bridge when the string tension varies. The bridge and saddles were not originally designed with this in mind. I would enjoy the sound of the guitar, but leave the trem alone.
  24. I just checked that link and saw that it had a one-piece mahogany neck. I think that would bring them together fairly close tonewise. It seems that the maple necks were used during the Norlin era 1969 - 1987.
  25. I don't think that one sounds better than the other, but they certainly sound different...and they each have their strong points. The maple neck combined with the ebony fretboard makes the Custom brighter, and clearer. To my ears it retains more clarity when using high gain and also low tunings. But the Standard has a warmer sound that to me has more of a 'vintage' vibe about it. That's how they sound to my ears, and I love them both !
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