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Bluemans335

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Bluemans335 last won the day on March 11 2013

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About Bluemans335

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  1. How much do they cost new? Used Epi's often go for around 50-60% of retail (not list). A 20 year old guitar is worth less than that.
  2. For a double cutaway solid body, my preferences are SG's and LP Double Cutaways. To me, Wilshires have a lot of Fender influence in the body design, pickguard, and tuners. I'd rather have something that's all Gibson origin. Mini-HB's are an interesting idea. I have an Epi Firebird and they're great in the neck slot; more clarity than a full-size HB. You can get mounting rings to put mini's in a regular HB guitar. Tempting idea.
  3. Looking like a new set of strings should have been your first move. Get back with us after you've changed them.
  4. +1. There have been guys on the Duncan forum that have done A-B tests, with different brands and types of pots and caps (some like to rewire things and have a lot of time on their hands), and the audible differences are neglible to zero. The reason to get expensive pots and caps is the added reliability; some players assume there's noticeable tonal benefits too, which is pretty optimistic. Nothing wrong with upgrading pots and caps if you want to spend the money. But for the $50 they cost, you could buy a used Duncan, DiMarzio, or Gibson humbucker, and really have an improvement in tone. Much more bang-for-the-buck. After PU's, that $50 could also be spent on an upgraded bridge and/or stop bar, which have more impact on tone and sustain than upgraded pots and caps. But there's a point at which you should draw a line. Some guys buy a new $500-600 Epi, and upgrade the PU's, hardware, tuners, and wiring harness, and pay a tech to do it. They can put nearly $1,000 into it, and could have bought a Gibson for that. I'll buy a used Epi in nice condition for $250-300, and get a couple used Duncan/DiMarzio/Gibson pickups, do the install and set up myself and call it a day. I'll have $350-$400 in it total and it sounds great. Better-sounding than a new $600 Epi in stock condition, and as good as one that someone sunk $1,000 in. The more you learn about guitars and how to do basic work on them, the less you need to spend to get them sounding and playing their best.
  5. The Epi PU's that have 4-leads are Probuckers and Alinco Classic Pros, which both come with push-pulls. I'm thinking 339's have had both models of those PU's in the last several years (initially Probuckers, then recently ACP's). On most Epi's the push-pulls are the volume pots, on others they're the tone pots. Tributes have 4-lead '57's. Gibson guitars with coil cut push-pulls also have 4-leads, and '57's in models that don't have push-pulls are single-lead. I don't know why they don't make all their humbuckers 4-lead, as it probably only costs them a dollar more to do that. I don't know what your experience is with swapping electronics, so I'll mention this. Strip the ends of the wires you're going to connect, twist them together, then solder for a soild connection. You'll want to wrap tape around the splice so they can't touch anything and short out. You don't want to have a short on stage. If you haven't already, check out some online vidoes on it. When it comes to replacing pots and caps, I've been on the Duncan forum for years and after numerous debates and side-by-side comparisons, there's really no audible difference in the various brands and types. They all do the same job of simply passing the current thru them. What makes a difference is the pot value, whether 250K, 500K or 1-meg (warm to bright). Most brands have a 10% +/- tolerence so they all have variations, even the best ones. The expensive pots may last longer, but stock Epi pots can last a lifetime. Caps aren't even heard until you dial down the tone pot, and even then it's the cap value far more than the brand or type that you hear. You've got enough going on with swapping PU's, you don't need to take on more at this point. I have a bunch of Epi's and have upgraded PU's in all of them. I only replace pots if they're scratchy, which is rare. Changing PU's improves the tone more than everything else combined (hardware, tuners, pots, caps, etc). That's where to put your money.
  6. I've changed PU's dozens of times in F hole guitars, it's not hard. Gibson usually puts sigle-lead HB's in their guitars, and 4-lead in their aftermarket HB's, so you'll have to ask the seller what they have. I've never seen a 339 in person; if they have a back plate (unlike 335's) that would make it easier. If your 339 has push-pulls for coil cut, it has 4-lead PU's, and I'm assuming you want to keep that. Single-lead PU's won't work for that. It's best to connect the new PU at the pots, or close to them. What I'd do is cut the old PU wire an inch or two from the volume pot, and splice and solder the new PU wires there, rather than at the pot. Epi's usig little circuit boards on their push-pulls, and you don't want to mess up those. If you need to use the F hole for bringing the pots in and out, you can use either a stiff wire (attached to the pot stem) or a piece of aquarium tubing (also attached to the pot stem) to pull the pot up thru the pot hole. In other words, put the wire or tubing in the pot hole, thru the guitar, and out the F hole. Attach it to the pot stem, push the pot into the F hole, and then gently pull the pot thru the body and up thru the round pot hole. I use a forcept to hold the stem in place while I put the washer and nut on it. Only takes a few minutes, not nearly the hercluean task some whiners make it out to be. Make sense?
  7. There's no moving parts in a PU, nothing to break or wear out. I've never heard of one pole piece not working; I didn't think it was possible. They either all owrk or none of them do. All 6 pole pieces are positioned above a single bar magnet; one pole piece can't be skipped. Your best bet is to ask the members on the Seymour Duncan forum.
  8. Nice work. How do you like the PU's?
  9. It's a great color, wish I knew what Epiphone called it. I thought that was 'heritage cherry' too, but have also seen cherry bursts (with separate yellow and red sections) called heritage cherry.
  10. Are you talking about the pot stem? If that's come out, the pot is shot and needs to be replaced. They're cheap (several dollars) and it takes no skill to replace one yourself. Take off one wire at a time on the old pot, and solder it in the same position on the new pot.
  11. What they're calling honeyburst these days is more of a dark yellowish color, not reddish brown like these pics. It's confusing. If you look at eBay, some sellers have no idea what the official color of their guitar is, and can call almost anything 'honeyburst.' Does Epi have a something with color samples, like they do when you buy a can of paint? That would clear up a lot of the guessing. Maybe some of the problem is that they had contract makers in Korea whose colors weren't quite Epi specs, and they may have varied a lot. I think what comes out of China now is more likely to be the official colors and names. Of course it doesn't help that Gibson has their own set of names for their colors.
  12. For 50 quid, yes, worth working on if the break isn't too bad.
  13. A hollow or semi hollow with F holes is a good idea. You get a more complex tone and less feedback. I think there's a market for it, if it has traditional looks and PU's.
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