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Keesee54

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Everything posted by Keesee54

  1. Just happened to wonder if the SG double neck guitars have the same problem.....
  2. I'm also using a third generation Ipad and while I haven't had that problem on these pages, it does happen randomly on other sites I visit. Sometimes it helps to take a couple of minutes and fully shut your machine down and restart after a short pause. I suspect that the cache memory gets overloaded at times and you just need to clear out all the junk files... Are you able to attach photos to a post? All of mine come up with an error saying the file size is too big for this website. Anybody got ideas on reconfiguring or resizing them so they will post here...?? Keesee
  3. Here's my typical way of doing things... You basically want to get as many wrappings around the post as possible. This is very important on cheaper guitars with lower ratio tuners of say 12:1 as opposed to nice tuners at 20:1. The low ratio by nature allows them to back off more easily. After I detirmine how much of the extra string I'm going to use, I thread it thru the hole with about 1/4" sticking out. I make sure that I always wrap the first time around the peg OVER THE TOP of the protruding end of the string and continue to wrap everything else BELOW the protruding end downward towards the headstock. What this does is sandwich the end of the string between the first two wraps of the string going around the peg locking it into inself. Keesee
  4. Why don't you discribe here what you are aiming for... You can most likely do a big portion of the work youself and I'm sure people here can give you good solid advice on how to get there... Besides that, we're nosey...... Keesee
  5. I bought a new Desert Burst about three weeks ago over the phone to the local Guitar Center and I made sure I got answers to any returns that might arise. Since that particular color is considered Special Order, it isn't stocked at local stores and had to be shipped from the Kansas City warehouse. I live about five miles from the Brownsburg Indiana warehouse but they didn't have it, so that's another story... The guitar Center salesman explained that if there were any problems with that guitar, all I would need to do would be to bring it in with my recipt. I had the sale documented with the online order and the salesman personally sent me an email thanking me for the order.. Blah... That I ould use for further documentation. My understanding was that it could be returned to any store with the paperwork. The Guitar arrived about a week later and was in the best condition I could hope for considering it is a $500.00 mass produced instrument. My finish was outstanding and I still haven't ound a flaw after three weeks altho the color is a tad darker than what I was hoping for. I have noticed a crooked pot or two on literally every guitar I've looked at with the coil tapping system installed, and mine has one that is noticibly tilted. My string action was way high with at least 1/8" at the 12th. fret, so I tweaked on it a couple of days before I ot the action where I wanted. I agree that the inspecters are signing off on a lot of junk. They have also changed the way serial numbers are read sometime around 2010. They now have number designations for the plant of manufacture as the 5 and 6 digit. I thought it was a lot easier with the letter codes at the beginning. Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  6. It's always a good idea to go over everyhing with a screwdriver once in a while whenever you restring it and it never hurts to clean things as well. I keep a small collection of tools dedicated to my guitars. I don't use those pliers or screwdrivers on anything else. I bought a tool called a Jacktight that is specially made to tighten 1/4" guitar jacks while it is still installed in the guitar. it works fantastic and it cost me about $20.00. Toggle switches are a bit harder to secure but the job goes better using a proper wrench than a pair of needle nosed pliers! Normally if you examine it closely, you'll find the culprit for any buzzing or unwanted noise. Just use trial and error and eliminate things as you go. As for any other specialized tools, I'm in love with my Ernie Ball motorized string winder and I always have a good set of dial indicators handy to measure things. You might need an occasional smooth file to dress a fret, but it's all just good quality hand tools. Keesee
  7. Those re really nice... I've watched a few on ebay and they can get pricy for a 35-40 year old guitar. I also like the FT 350's. they are about the same but without the Moon inays... Keesee
  8. Thanks for all the help and this info is in line with what the guitar is suposed to be... Keesee
  9. It's definitely a 12 and not a capitol I, leaving me confused as to weather it designates 12 for the year of manufacture, or a 12 that would denote the Unsung China plant which would also account for the Crafted in China sticker... Both of my other les pauls have are E code guitars.... I guess I couldn't get lucky three times... Lol! Keesee
  10. I just sold a Peerless 335 copy that tended to do the same thing... It sounded fantastic plugged in thru an amp, but while playing as an acoustic the entire lower bout resonated in a way that had a lot of fuzz to the sound. My guitar was a fully hollow body with a sound peg and the distortion occured anywhere on the neck while playing chords. Single note picking didn't seem to produce the same effect. I'll add that my guitar had a trapeze style tail piece. I wondered if the sound peg had moved at some point while the guitar may have been detuned during string replacement. wasn't supporting the bridge properly....
  11. Are you dead set on having an Epiphone logo on the case? There are a lot of options available if it doesn't have to be Epiphone brand...
  12. Thanks guys, I'm familiar with the DR's and I agree that they are nice guitars, but they are rather drab looking.... I'd like to have more bindings including the headstock and definitely want block or trapizoid fret markers. Basically something pretty ornate that doesn't have a huge bluegrass style neck. Keesee
  13. I just got a new limited edition les paul plus top pro with a S/N that I don't recognize and I'm hoping someone here can help. I tried entering the number into a couple of online guitar dater sites with no luck. So here we go..... The guitar is new from the Guitar Center yesterday with the black "Hand Crafted in China" sticker and it has a gold printed serial number that begins with 12 instead of a letter prefix. The entire S/N is 1202150xxxx I realize that coming from a big box outlet the guitar could easily have laid in the warehouse a year or two.... Thanks in advance and if I'm posting this type of request in the wrong section of the forum here, I apoligize for that. Mark Keesee
  14. I definitely remove the recycle sticker and some of the other junk. I do tend to keep any stickers that identify the country of origin and I mostly keep the USA set up & inspector label. I usually get about a year out of the clear vinyl pickguard film so when it gets too bad, all of them come off at the same time. I gotta agree that the S/N is more important. Mark Keesee
  15. Thanks for the comments, I already own a Honey Burst Plain top along with a Heritage Cherry Sunburst plain top. While I still like the looks of the HB color, I really flipped over the Iced Tea and Desert burst. They both have more of a rich Golden Brown flavor that fall a lot closer to the 1959's. the Honey burst is a very hard color to film, but it looks like wet Butterscotch candy in real life. I've banged on quite a few at Guitar Center the last few months with the coil tapped pickups and that is what really clinched it. I recently sold a very nice Peerless 335 copy, so this guitar is basically free. The guitar is due for delivery by Thursday or so, and I'll get some pics soon as possible along side the HB for comparisian. I just need to figure out why Photobucket won't allow my to post from my account. If you haven't checked it out, I'd recommend you take a look at the LP cases from Rondo Music. These are the people who distribute the Agile brand of LP's. At any rate, I bought one of the Dougsal cases in Brown and it is by far the best case I've seen. It' actually a gorgous Oxblood color on the outside with a very nice Burgandy interior. Everyone I've shown it to has raved about it. They run about $78.00 shipped and definitely cheaper than Epiphone logo cases! Mark Keesee
  16. I'm really happy with the two I have even tho I don't give them enough attention. I've got two hands and about twenty five guitars! My Cherry version is from the early '90's and it has dot fret markers while my Black version is a block inlay version from about 2001. Mark Keesee
  17. Well after a good degree of effort over the phone, I was successful in finding a Desert Burst thru my local GC dealer today. The sales guy told me they don't stock that color in stores and it needs to come from the warehouse distribution center. After some checking he told me they showed 67 available and I could either have it sent directly to th house or assign it to be picked up at the store. The guitar is priced at $499.00. I live in Indianapols and was assuming it would be coming from a distribution center located in Brownsburg Indiana which is about 15 miles northwest of Indy. The salesman says no, it's coming from Kansas City and I still ave to pay sales tax even tho it's technically an internet buy which would bring it to $527 or so.... The good news is that I was able to use the Presidents Day sale price and get 15% off which brought the final cost down to $453.84. I saved about $76.00 and I should have it Wednesday or Thursday. I asked about a return plicy in case there are any problems and he says all I would need to do is bring it to any store within 30 days. So far it's been a good day,,,! Mark Keesee
  18. I think Epiphone may be missing a marketing oppertunity by not offering a version of Gibson's Songwriter series guitars. My ideal acoustic guitar would be a non cutaway dread with nice neck & headstock binding, block fret inlays on a slim C shaped neck and a natural finish. Think something along the line of a naturally finished Hummingbird with a non printed pickguard and definitely not the funkyness of a Dove.... There is very little selection of guitars that fit this bill and most were produced with really fat neck profiles like Martin D 28's have. Anyone here ever try to strip and refinish a Hummingbird? Maybe I could try that..... Mark Keesee
  19. Hi, not sure what info you are looking for but maybe this will help.... The PR 150NA sell new for about $109.99 at the Guitar Center and are among the the entry level of Epiphone guitars. The NA code designates a guitar with Natural finish for the top. They were also available in VS or Vintage Sunburst finish and possibly BK for Black. These guitars have bodies constructed of marine grade plywood as opposed to more expensive guitars having bodies made of solid wood and have Mahogany necks. They are good guitars for the price and can be made to play pretty nice with some moderately simple tweaking. Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  20. I use a capo at the first fret and fully detune the guitar to the point where I can wrangle the saddle insert out of the bridge. As a scale model builder I was already aware of a company called Evergreen Plastics and I buy my stock from them. They sell direct thru their website or you can hit any well stocked hobby shop to get a small selection. All guitar bridge slots are cut to either 3/16" or 1/4" wide so I always keep a supply of pre-formed stock that is .180 inch wide by .020" and a pack of .180 by .030. The strip stock is made of hard styrene plastic which transferes the sound to the guitar with excellent resonance and comes in a package of about 15 pieces that about 18 inches long. All you do is snip off a length a little shorter than the length of the channel and lay it in then reinsert the saddle. The .180" wide stock will lay nicely in the bridge channel for either size slot. It is trial and error as to how much you will need to raise the saddle, but this method does it evenly so you get the same amount on the high strings as you would on the lower strings. I have had to go as much as .060" in a few cases by doubling up the strips in whatever combination appropiate. The plastic costs about $3.00 per package and that would be enough material to produce 30-40 strips, so for ten or twelve bucks you can have a supply that will last for years. Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  21. They made that guitar for several years and I'm not sure how to determine the date of build, but I think all were between 1971 and maybe 1984. I think the earlier issues had dot fret marker inlays while later models had the block style. They had a tendacy to fold up after a few years of play due to being designed with a bolt on neck, but I still see some that have held up well. I personally like the higher end series like the EF 350 or EF 360 with a set neck and full heel design and a non adjustable saddle insert. Been hunting a nice example to one with a two piece back for a while now... Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  22. Lots of stuff out there in the 3-4 hundred dollar price range. i would recommend that you consider having onboard electronics on whatever you decide to get. It's almost manditory now days even if you don't play plugged in. While it hasn't made a big splash in the market as yet, Epiphone very recently decided to release the Dove and the Hummingbird as a Pro Series with onboard electronics. They should be very popular in a few months. Of course the DR500's recommended above are nice too, but I think I would recommend looking at the EG series Takamine stuff. The EG guitars are made in Korea and the serial numbers are all but undecipherable as to year of manufacture, but if you aren't worried about that they are great guitars. The neck profile on the EG 341C is almost identical to Epiphone Les Paul..... Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  23. That's a standard issue PR100NA which translates as to having a Natural Finish on the top. It was also available in VS Vintage Sunburst and both sold new at Guitar Center for $109.99. It has a fully laminated body which means it's basically all Marine grade plywood with a Mahogany neck. The head stock is the normal Epiphone design for acoustic guitars. I'm 99% sure it is the cheapest bottom line acoustic Epiphone offers. It should play acceptable for a person who mostly plays basic chords on the first 3-4 frets, but it would need some adjustments to make it play acceptable higher up on the neck. They can be made to play nice, but it takes some work to get there. A giutar of this condition would be $50-60 used. Hope this helps, Mark Keesee
  24. Thanks for the info, I may have finally found it listed a a limited edition model that also includes an Antique Natural finish that resembles Trans Amber. Guitar Center had a stock number listed in the fine print that may help as well. Thanks!,
  25. Check a few simple basics first and eliminate as you go.... Make sure the collar inserts of the tuning keys are tight in the headstock to insure that the machine head isn't the culprit. It seems to be the last pace people look because they assume these don't come loose. It's always a good idea to go over everything with a good phillips screwdriver whenever you restring or do cleaning.. You'd be surprised at what you find. Next, I would make sure the saddle for the offending string is properly seated into the tune o matic. The only other problem for open string buzz would be an improperly deep cut of the nut for that string. I like to set the heigth of the tune o matic as low as possible before buzing occurs and yours may be a bit low on both guitars causing the problem. Try raising the tune o matic by detuning all of the strings to about half tension and move the thumb wheels on the main studs counter clockwise about 3/4 turn. I recently sold a Black Korina Explorer that had a buzz so bad that it muted the open sixth string. The nut slot for the sixth string was cut too deep and I had to install a new nut, but the funny thing was that the string played perfectly at the first fret and everthing above that! This needs to be addressed first and after that, start looking for string buzz at each fretted notes up the scale.... You didn't mention, and I'm curious to know just where the buzzing occurs? Is it only confined to the higher strings or lower ones? And at what point up the neck? Hope this helps, Keesee
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