aliasphobias

Nah not much. Some hear it and some don't. Just make sure you don't force them if they don't fit (use a little sandpaper and modify the pin not the hole [sorry if you already knew that]). Easily reversed if you don't like them

I would agree that they vary. What era 'bird are we talking? I would measure for you if I had one. You might try posting this in the "acoustic" sub forum, this doesn't get much traffic

That's a tough call from the pics but looks like some impact damage at the treble side of the nut (pic 1). Also a little misalignment at the area (pic 3). I think I would get a pro opinion.

The guitar looks to be a '46/'47 LG2. Script logo, no banner.

It looks pretty rough to me Pat. Yours was "controlled" rough, plus you got to play it first. My guess is that in the 4 months he has had it listed, he turned down at least 1 (of the 5 he's had) offer he should have taken. I think I'd save up another $700-1000 and dive into something a bit cleaner.

As we all know hide glue is brittle. I can't imagine what the flattening process must have done to the top bracing. A competent luthier or repairman would have easily assessed the condition of the top. It's either stable (leave it alone), or unstable (usually requiring some brace re-glueing). It's just as important what you don't do on these old guitars. We can disagree on some of the minor points but I think we all agree that old girl deserved better. Much better..

Personally....I judge him on his quality of work. 'I didn't look up the serial number to date it, who has time for the that with all the instruments laying around to work on?' This guitar came to him with a loose bridge, a compromised bridge plate and some serious finish issues. It didn't have any cracks, broken headstock, or need a neck reset. Within a few minutes he had melted the finish in front of the bridge, started experimenting with chemicals to blend the bare wood 'to be personally honest I don't know what kind of finish is on it, they could've used anything' I still don't think he understands that Gibson builds a radius in there tops because he proceeded to smash it out with boards (that he's specially prepared to not hurt the finish), and the biggest piece of wood he can fit through the soundhole, which in theory moves the saddle closer to the nut (10 cents sharp on the E string , bewildering eh). As I said originally, the glue squeeze out, that he knew was going to be there, he just sets it aside and goes to bed. That's a basic woodworking skill! That is about taking pride in your workmanship and is unforgivable IMO. The 'customer doesn't want to spend a lot of money on it' doesn't hold water for me Juan. Nobody just gives the repairman a blank check and says fix it at any cost! He could have saved time and money by doing a few minutes research to find out the year and finish. 'To be perfectly honest, by golly I can just tell by looking at'em and smelling them how old they are'. Good grief!! This guy isn't only a hack but a first rate hack. The guitar needed the bridge re-glued to be a "player", period. It left his hands in worse shape than it arrived, and much harder for the next person to correct. First do no harm.

If your luthier tells you he can cause more problems cleaning up his glue squeeze out so he's just going to leave it, take your guitar and run. A little bit of paste wax over the finish in the bridge cut outs would have done wonders. Hot hide glue would have been much cleaner if you're too lazy to do clean work. This guy is a hack. I am surprised at how many here are impressed with him.

I always enjoyed the vimeos of you and your wife playing together Tom. Her smile said it all! A special connection with the music. The solid notes from the bass and beautiful harmony soaring above the melody. May her memory live on in the music that you made together and the beautiful instruments the two of you collected. My deepest sympathy to you, your family and friends.

Okay, headstock shot always clears up a little bit. I have only ever seen archtops with the Mason moniker. Post it in the "Acoustic" sub forum. There are knowledgeable folks there that may be able to help. As for bridge pins (ebony w/MOP dots), with that profile I have none. Good luck!

Hello and welcome. Oddly enough that looks more like a Harmony or Silvertone guitar. Check with a local luthier for bridge pins for a match. They usually have a drawer full. Where are you located ? That could be helpful as well. Is it ebony? Dyed wood or plastic. I have more than a few and would be happy to send a few.

Why not whittle down the pins? Burnish a razor blade and use it as a mini card scraper, shave around the pins starting just beneath the crown. Slow and easy and testing along the way.

Ha, here I go into the deep end. I agree with all of the above, of course. I know that it shouldn't make a difference (and to many it doesn't), but I have done enough A/B to hear a subtle difference in most guitars. What I hear is a nice clear note from the harder material (bone,ivory,ebony[to some degree]) but not so much on fretted strings. It's like, pins-saddle-nut-strings isn't it? Some hear a difference, others don't. I have to admit, when I read that Nick & Mr.7th, prefer the early nylon or translucent material, I may revisit it. I do have a matchbox full of them. Hard to find? Not here!

Take it to someone who is experienced in crack repair on a guitar. A good repair person can make it almost invisible, almost anything you do will make it look worse. First step is humidify until the crack closes. G'luck with it.

Nice clean playing jt! Enjoyed that Immensely.

Wow what a great looking J180 Mr. McCoy! After the long wait I am glad it didn't disappoint. It must be a great feeling to finally have it in your hands. Patience rewarded!!

I was on the hunt for one a couple years back and couldn't find one in my budget the did it for me. I auditioned a 12 fretter that was reasonable but I run out of real estate on a 12. I should mention I tried a Kalamazoo KG14 that had been converted to x braced and it was incredible and at 2-3k less than a 00. Yeah not quite the cool factor of the 00 but it was stellar. The Kalamazoos are worth a look. Good luck as Mr. Zep said they are out there but fading fast (at least in my budget). Good luck in your hunt. P.S. I have played some of the newer ones, and although good, just don't quite get there for me.

Delicately put! I think between Mr. Nick and Mr. 7 they covered the nut width question pretty well. As for when Gibson "switched" I am not sure they have. On occasion they will roll out a version with the smaller nut width.( '60's reissues come to mind. I guess when necks are carved by machine it's easier to have a standard.

I think we are saying "good for the environment". The sustainability thing is about friendly things for the planet. As far as a finishing product; it is easy to touch up, relatively easy to apply, looks and polishes nice, provides some level of protection for the instrument and it's traditional. However, if you were to buy a can, remove the lid and set it on your bed stand for a month....

I couldn't agree more! I'm not sure that the polys and varnishes, of today, are much better. While we're at it ban granite countertops. Have you seen what they are doing to the mountains of North and South Carolina (and countless other places) to get granite? If you think it's hard to grow a rosewood or mahogany tree, try re-growing a mountain!

I don't think a flash coat is going to solve your problem because you will still have to wet sand and buff after the flash coat. It sounds like you need to buff what you have wet sanded. BTW flash coat is: 4 parts thinner, 1 part lacquer w/ a splash of retarder (amounts do not have to be exact) and is for melting in build up/touch up layers.

A good luthier can make that go away easily. Flash coats work wonders. I think it was cool of the case manufacture to refund the case price. Live and learn eh? The old hard knocks of life. Good luck with it!

Not sure about the sell part. Take a look at the prices. I think many in the USA have moved to Reverb and left eBay because of their exorbitant fees.

If you can build a CNC I would love to see what you can come up with w/o copying Gibson (who lately isn't copying Gibson either). The new J200 and Hummingbird pickguards amount to vandalism in my opinion on their most iconic guitars. I won't go down the slippery slope of tone and flubber guards. I haven't any first hand knowledge but wish you luck in your endeavor.

I am guessing you're replacing the Rotomatics? If so anything will work. You may have to drill another screw hole. If that makes you squeamish just pick something with a screw in bushing and let the bottom screw and bushing share the load. My choice tulips for the ' bird, Waverley for the j45. G'luck.