aliasphobias

Hi ilots, buzzes and rattles can be tricky to track down but here is what I recommend; secure anything loose inside the guitar such as the wire clip in your photos. Next you have to isolate the ends. Put a capo at the first fret, is the rattle gone? Then it's something at the nut. If the rattle is still there, take off the capo and try pushing on the saddle while trying to recreate the noise still there? Then most likely a high fret. Hope this helps. Welcome here. Odd it is, but I live on the sun as well. Which hemisphere are you in? Maybe we could meet for coffee and a doughnut sometime. As for the holes they are just alignment holes.

I have fallen for women who made my scratch disappear.

Thank you Nick.

Try this:http://www.stewmac.com/How-To/Trade_Secrets/Mamie_Minch_Melting_scratches_off_a_vintage_guitar_finish.html

I agree with them both being good guitars. As for the flatsawn wood I wouldn't put too much thought into that..if I'm not mistaken many of the banner era guitars were flatsawn lumber and they are still around.

The top looks refinished to my eye, something going on. Precious little saddle left but can't tell about string height.

I have owned several older Guilds. As for the mahoganay top D25, I had a '72 (solid mahogany top b&s) and a '73 (hog top ply back and sides). I think they only did the hog ply model for a couple years but they are awesome. They made some D25M with spruce top, as well as D25C (cherry), D25B (brown,I guess). The gumtree one looks to be late 70s from what I see, and spruce top and ply back and sides. These late 70s are not very impressive to my ears or hard to find. If you can find a 72 or 3 I would jump on it. I still see my 73er every couple years and offer to buy it back. The only reason I passed it was not wanting to do the repairs it needed. Sorry if this is a rambling mess.

Not so fast my friend. I like the '92-'97 Hummingbird. Long scale and actually prefer them to the 24.75". I may be odd.

Chumming the water eh Pappy? :-) Anyone care to guess the final bid? I'll go first, $2850. A better case and condition would have taken it past the three.

Do you know what the humidity of your guitar or house is. Humidity issues are a common problem this time of year. All other measurements and adjustments are a waste if you have a too dry/wet guitar.

Yep, It could be the nut. How does it play with a capo at the first fret? It shouldn't be any harder to play open than with a capo, if string height at the nut is optimal. If not you are back to saddle and neck relief. With the capo at the first fret the relief at the 8th fret should be about .002. A pro set up is never a bad idea but I am from the school of do what you can yourself. If you have multiple guitars it almost becomes necessary. This isn't hard, get a set of feeler gauges, (or some of the nice measuring tools that Stewmac sells), go slow and don't force anything (truss rod) and you will be fine.

This has not been my experience, especially in regard to nut width. Whether due to the inconsistency with serial numbers I have seen '63,'64,& '65 @ 1 5/8", 1 9/16" as well as 1 11/16". As for volute on the headstock, I was trying to help rule out later than '69 square. I will defer. I was only trying to be helpful but will be the first to admit misinformation is not helpful.:) My apology offered. Good luck on your search for a j45!

It gets tricky in the 60's latestart. Pre '64 for the light bracing (IIRC) but the nut width is all over the place. Later '60's is heavier bracing but more consistent neck width/size. You are on the right path,it sounds like, by paying upfront for an early '60's and getting the features you find attractive but then enter other less attractive attributes,i.e. adjustable bridge, plywood bridge pads, etc. Truly is a worthwhile hunt, but daunting at times.

I can possibly address some of your questions; It looks tobacco sunburst, definitely not cherry (from here). A look at the back of the headstock would be helpful to narrow the year. Is there a volute on the headstock? In 68' the top bracing got much heavier and continued so on into the '70s and evolved into the much opposed double x bracing. From what I have seen these can be found around the $1200 price point. I cannot ascertain whether the guitar is local to you, in which case, some of your questions could be answered by looking inside with a mirror. They are not the most desirable years (late '68 -'69), not that there are not some good ones. 1969 seems accurate to me without further info. As to holding value they seem to if bought "right". That said I would not pay anywhere close to the $2500 number you mention, and personally try to chisel off some of the $1500. There are some very nice late model J45's that could be had for around $1500 that should have less playability issues. Cheers and welcome!

I think someone just saved $75 an hour on a therapy session. Now that that is off your chest...

Welcome to the forum! I'm not much of an electric player (I never got used to hearing my mistakes that loud) but it looks like you've got a nice little collection there.

I have played a couple of the Starburst and think they are good guitars. I see them come up on auction occasionally and in my opinion they are not a "well kept secret". Gibson seems to have carved their niche in repros. Even the artist, pro, songwriter, guitars are slow to be excepted. Taylor, on the other hand could put out a double neck 514 and sell a pile of them. I'm not sure if it's a marketing thing or customer base. I guess in the end you have to "dance with them that brung ya".

In my useless and rarely sought opinion that one is not a candidate for a re-finsh. It looks to me like it is just starting look right. As a matter of fact if it were mine, being a '70's, I would be selective about which braces I tightened up, or put back. With a grin-

I'm with jedzep. I think it's a case by case judgment call. I am not a purist when it comes to finish re-touching, replacing tuners,& bridge pins. I had the back of the neck refinished on my '69 Guild D-35 when I had the neck reset, no qualms. However, I am a little sensitive to pickguard swapping; Taylor 'guard on a D-18, Martin 'guard on a Guild, etc. I think you are in an enviable position to have the craft to refinish. The price to have my old Yamaha, camping, guitar refinished (not that I would) keeps me from ever having to make the decision.

Hi and welcome. Try Bob Colosi for the pins and saddle. I think there is a link in the very first post of this thread. As many others here I am a big fan of bone for pins and saddle for enhancing tone. Bob is a real nice guy as well as helpful. You may have to do a little fitting but it's simple and well worth the time. Good Luck.

Nice looking guitars bram99. I'm new here too but welcome just the same. I was thinking the same thing as DD, you better get those guitars off the couch before they fall!

Thanks DD, I consider that a compliment from the looks of your line up.