kaicho8888

If your volume goes down in the middle position and gets trebly... the pickups are out-of-phase with each other. You will have to rotate the magnet in one of the pickups; unless you like the "Peter Green" tone of out-of-phase.

Most players use audio tapered 500k Ohms for both volume and tone... I just buy the Gibson brand (probably by CTS) since it's available at music stores. Other traditional brand is CTS; if you want push-pull for single/humbucker sound, Bourne or Alpha pots at 500k. Some Gibsons use 300k Ohms linear for volume. Either way, it's what you prefer when using your knobs. Have fun!

The stock 490R/498T combination is OK. Although, I've switched the magnets between the two to make them more compatible. It made the neck pickup not too muffled and bridge pickup not so ear piercing. I also changed the volume pots to 500k Ohms. I seem to get the most compliment with this set up than any other types of Gibson pickups. The "T" in 490T refers to pickups to be used next to the bridge due to wider slug/screw spacing. Likewise an "R" pickup should go on the neck side. Funny, but all my vintage 60's Gibson's are all "R" sized, and does not seem to affect the tone/volume if placed on the bridge position. Then I'm an old fart and back then volume loudness was all we knew.

I don't know if this works; use at your own risk. Try pin drop of acetone on the fret inlays; maybe at the inlay/fretboard junction. If it softens the inlay, then it's not MOP material. It should dry solid later. BTW, I've carefully used cloth with acetone to clean pearls. I don't soak pearls if there are holes in the pearl like the ones on necklaces. The outer pearl coating is unaffected. However, I would not use this on the Gibson headstock logo... since it has a clear coat of nitro that dissolves in acetone.

Congrats!!!! ...definitely a nice one you got there!!! I've no idea why there was no Guaranteed sticker in the f-hole. Either it fell off or somebody forgot to install it. But the sticker is a tradition for ES types. Well, papers do not make a Gibson. It's easier to fake the papers than the actual guitar. In fact, I believe I saw that orange sticker reproduction on EvilBay! You just hand write the SN on it.

From your picture, the fretboard end has the normal black binding. However, it looks like the routing for the neck pickup extends right up the fretboard end (not the usual) or the pickup ring was not installed flushed against the fretboard end (usually).

My ES-339 2012 still had the CS decal and a CS 2012 xxxxx serial number. The case also said Gibson Customs.

Yeah, that's how we use to make it mono. But you have to reverse the magnet on one of the pickup to be in-phase. Assuming you prefer this sound. The varitone can be used to also sound like the "Peter Green" thin sound. Since I do not use two amps anymore, I just use a stereo plug and solder the two hot leads in the cable jack and reverse one of the PU magnets. This TRS jack would be used on a mono instrument cable.

Pippy summarized it...except the saddle adjustment screws can go either way. The Nashville is more durable than the ABR-1 screw posts. I had a sixties Gibson that bent forward, I don't know if it's from the strings pushing against the back of the bridge. But looking back it's probably my rough rock'n rolling abuse when I was younger and more animated.... LOL. Anyway, I just used a pair of pliers to straighten the post bolts. As far as tone... meh. I notice bad tone when I don't practice.

My son only plays Fenders and he always comments on rough speedbumps on Gibsons. Thicker med jumbo frets are less bumpy than skinny frets. Gibson also has a bus top contoured fret crowing vs. Fender's rounded crowing top. You can crown the Gibson frets more to make them rounder or feeling less of a sharp edge. I'm just use to both types, and don't notice the "speed bump" plek'd Gibson frets.

If you are used to Fenders, speed bumps on Gibson could be due to the differing frets. Fenders are fatter vs thinner Gibson frets. Gritty or sandy frets when bending...you need to polish your frets. Quick fix, you can use 600 sandpaper then Mother's Mag polish. Use painter's blue tape to protect the fretboard or a fret protector.

I don't understand anybody bashing instruments one plays...move on, if it's not "your cup of tea". I suppose the OP is more into looking at his guitar than playing... each to his own opinion. Somebody mentioned, the OP got booted out at the PRS, too? LOL. He probably ended up with a Fender or a Chibson. Anyways, at 70 years old and playing since 12, I always sound like "me" no matter what I play! OK, unfortunately, I forget a lot of licks I use know.

Wow... this thread is tiring to read... I'm old, I know... LOL. I've been many times to the Memphis factory since its opening in 2000... 20 minutes from my home. I seem to remember that they can crank out between 400 to 700+ guitars/day. It's a mass production factory and they try to sort out wood to various quality for the various models. I've enjoyed all my Gibsons and don't have any problems that I cannot fix. I suppose it could be luck. However, if you are not happy with your purchase, return it or get it fixed, spend more of your money to get what you are expecting. I suppose many buy guitars with a certain expectation for the money they spend. Life is just too short to spend time complaining on forums. If you don't like it... return it, don't buy it, or spend more to get what you want and expect. Expectation for $ spent is relative to each one.

The stock pickups on the ES-345 stereo like yours and mine were purposely out of phase. So in the middle position you'll notice a drop in volume as well as tinny sound (if you use a mono cable with the two hot points connected in the TRS plug to the guitar). You can play it in stereo with two amps. If you play with one amp, it has to be a two separate channel amp. One channel is usually 180 degree out of phase with the other channel; so with the ES-345 stereo out of phase pickups, everything comes out OK. If you decide to use one amp as you did by connecting the two hot wires together... you can rotate the magnet of the non-standard pickup. Find out the pickup that is not the standard orientation by using a compass. The standard Gibson has the screw coil as South. Do you have a PAF sticker under your pickups or a patent number stamped? As far as amps, it depends on the venue you play. I use anywhere from a small 15W Blues Junior tweed, Blue Deluxe tweed, DRRI, or a Marshall DSL1000. Since I only jam in small bars (100ppl max), my Blues Jr tweed (or two) is perfect.

That's a beaut; congratulations are in order! Is that a trans amber nitro? I also noticed it has nylon saddles like my early '60 ES's.

This thread always reminds me to open up my cases on vintage guitars; inspect for any corrosion; and keep it propped opened for a few days or so. Is it just the vintage pickguards or any parts like knobs/bindings etc. that we should worry about? I don't have any newer "true historic" guitars with the old tort guard ... so no worries there.

This thread always reminds me to open up my cases on vintage guitars; inspect for any corrosion; and keep it propped opened for a few days or so. Is it just the vintage pickguards or any parts like knobs/bindings etc. that we should worry about? I don't have any newer "true historic" guitars with the old tort guard ... so no worries there.

Anybody know if there is a patent on the clip-on LP pickguard?

Geeze, another slight variation trying appeal to some possible market. I suppose manufacturers have to come up with new or modified products to survive yearly... and also help you lighten your wallets.

Ha ha ha... "We's all silly guitar players." If I ever chat about guitar playing at an engineering forum...many do not know or will misunderstand the "lingo"; but be reassured it will be discussed in detail. LOL.

Sorry... double tap the trigger and posted twice!!!

Wow...long thread on stair step looking saddles! Yes, most saddles (especially Fenders) are looking stair step; but tuners tell you where the saddles are to be positioned. My ES339 is definitely not stair step on the low E, A, D. Gibson bridge is at an angle. Besides, you're only intonated with the zero fret and the 12th fret...the rest of the frets are percent off. So why are we over analyzing this? If you're hankering for a more intonated guitar try a "true temperament" fretboard with the wiggly frets. Even then it's not exact for Western tuning. Bottom line, we are talking music...yes music for our ears and heart! Music that consist of myriad "off" notes; yet pleasant to our ears. Just an observation: I know it's basic statics/dynamic engineering; but please discuss this in an engineering forum. An engineering forum where members have similar knowledge and technical background... where members can talk and understand the very specific technical "lingo"...just my two cents.

Thanks for the threads on replacing the threaded posts. I had to do this some 30 years ago on a LP. The posts started to bend towards the neck. I got them straightened up with a pair of pliers; eventually I replaced them. However I just cut the same 1" long; but it did not seem to bottom out. In retrospect, I could have checked the depth into the body and install longer screws...oh well...didn't seem to make any difference then. I realize that the ply may not be ideal and screwing more into the maple center might be better... you said it made a difference on an ES?

CONGRATS TO YOU! Ebay has a lot of case shrouds for sale with different motifs. I usually remove the shroud...just me.

Too much info for me... Luckily, we now have electronic tuners! I don't know where my tuning forks or pipe tuners are anymore! Plus, I also get hearing fatique. One of my Gibson saddles do not follow the stair-step pattern... I suppose the bridge posts were installed a little off the standard angle. Bottom line, do what you have to "do" to intonate correctly...and then play it more.