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About rickc

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    Guitars, Motorbikes, my truck, my kids
  1. rickc

    Share your ES's

    More pretty things. A 1988 ES335 dot and a 1980 ES Artist:
  2. Odd head shots. From the front, the truss rod cover looks about 2mm too high above the nut, the nut just looks wrong how it slopes down from the left to right and the thistle inlay is bent to the right. From the rear, it looks like the tuners' screws are aligned on one side but not on the others; I've seen this on other Gibsons but not as pronounced as this. Looks like an Epiphone bridge. As noted already, this should be a TD not a TDC so the label style is wrong. Very weird.
  3. This is a very common problem. Try turning the guitar volume down to around 50-60% and increasing your amp volume to achieve the volume you wish to play at; your guitar output may be slightly over-driving the amp, accentuating the three higher strings output preferentially to E. You may have to experiment to find the guitar volume knob sweet spot. Good luck.
  4. Gino753: This is not "normal". Try looking up the neck from the bridge; this is what I do to quickly check neck relief and it may also give a better perspective on neck "twist" to the body. It's not really a twist you are looking for but a bend all the way down the neck. If you can set up the guitar to play well this is just a cosmetic issue but based on the picture of the heel I'd expect the fingerboard to be tilted towards the bass end.
  5. Sorry for the late response. I have a Hohner G3T but it has the same Steinberger trem. There's no such thing as a master tuning screw so I assume you mean the single, big thumbwheel at the back centre under the bridge. The purpose of this screw is to adjust the tension on the whammy spring so that when the strings are in tune, the bridge is flat; same function as the pair of trem spring claw screws behind most whammy guitars. My bridge has a small lever that locks the bridge flat if the whammy is not in use or when changing strings or changing tunings. If you have the same, lock the bridge, put on the new strings, tune to pitch and then adjust the big screw so that the locking lever can only just be unlocked and locked. That's it. Adjusting the intonation and string height is another thing and is a little fiddly but really easy. If you do not have the locking lever then you need to find another way to lock the bridge flat when putting strings on and tuning to pitch.
  6. not sure "cleaned it" included cleaning the strings. Putting a guitar away with dirty (not wiped-down) strings is likely the main cause for the problem described by the OP.
  7. Hi and welcome. My 88 dot reissue has had 008"-038", 009"-042" and 010"-046" strings, each for long lengths of time. Eventually, I decided to keep it at the heavier 010"-046" and even cranked the action up a little to make it easier for what little slide playing I'm capable of. I should note that "high" action for me is still relatively low, maybe 7/64" at the bass E and 4/64" at the top E at the 12th fret. The neck has just a tiny bit of relief. This set-up allows me to play anything I normally play on other guitars but I think the tone is a little better with the thicker strings. Set-up on Gibson guitars is easy; just take a look at a bunch of YouTube videos and your are pretty much set to go. A 2017 guitar should not need much; frets should be level so maybe just a truss rod tweak to set the neck with a small amount of relief once you've chosen your preferred string gauges. What amp(s) are you running through?
  8. Hi Michael: Welcome to this group. Please invest in guitar stands; your picture scares me as it shows how LP headstocks get broken off. 'love the baby Voxes. You will love the ES-335.
  9. Technically, the picture shows a "good"break; it's long, looks quite clean and there is a massive surface area for the glue to work on. I'd very comfortable fix this myself; just use good glue and lots of clamps then use super fine sand paper to clean up the lines of the break and re-polish. The break looks so clean that I'm sure it will not be obvious once repaired. There doesn't appear to be any missing chunks/splinters.
  10. Sorry; just re-read. Both pups work in the middle position so the pup wiring is not the issue pointing to a switch problem as you suspected. Weird that the problem persists with a new switch. Is it possible that your original switch wiring was wrong and you simply duplicated the same when installing the new switch? This is the only scenario that makes sense to me.
  11. Sorry for the late response: Black is start and white is finish. Loose, exposed wires are a liability as they are delicate and one will eventually break. I would try to very carefully redirect the wires under the side tape wraps, maybe even remove the tape and start again from scratch. Just file the end of the rivet flat and push it through. Good luck!
  12. If you are talking about how to attach the bracket to the pickguard, not superglue; as it's gasses may discolour the new pick guard! Use a regular household like UHU.
  13. Yes. The bridge (and strings) should be grounded. Your description of the problem answered this. Great looking guitar.
  14. If the switch is good then check the connections at the pots and while you are at it check to see if there is continuity through the bridge pup using a multimeter. If there is no current passing through the pup then it could be that the pup has a broken wire (happened to me on a neck pup).
  15. This is why you must always wipe-down all the metal parts before putting a guitar away for a while; it does not take much time for things to get bad. If the pups are (were!) gold plated then there's nothing that can be done except clean the pups and put up with the missing gold. Hopefully the corrosion is light and doesn't go deep into the top of the pups. If it's deep then the damage is done and you will just gave to refer to the new look as "mojo". If this were my problem, I'd un-string, put a cloth over the guitar and completely remove the pups from the rings to get at the tops and the sides with a light metal polish. Good luck
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