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About rickc

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    Guitars, Motorbikes, my truck, my kids
  1. Sorry for the late response. I have a Hohner G3T but it has the same Steinberger trem. There's no such thing as a master tuning screw so I assume you mean the single, big thumbwheel at the back centre under the bridge. The purpose of this screw is to adjust the tension on the whammy spring so that when the strings are in tune, the bridge is flat; same function as the pair of trem spring claw screws behind most whammy guitars. My bridge has a small lever that locks the bridge flat if the whammy is not in use or when changing strings or changing tunings. If you have the same, lock the bridge, put on the new strings, tune to pitch and then adjust the big screw so that the locking lever can only just be unlocked and locked. That's it. Adjusting the intonation and string height is another thing and is a little fiddly but really easy. If you do not have the locking lever then you need to find another way to lock the bridge flat when putting strings on and tuning to pitch.
  2. not sure "cleaned it" included cleaning the strings. Putting a guitar away with dirty (not wiped-down) strings is likely the main cause for the problem described by the OP.
  3. Hi and welcome. My 88 dot reissue has had 008"-038", 009"-042" and 010"-046" strings, each for long lengths of time. Eventually, I decided to keep it at the heavier 010"-046" and even cranked the action up a little to make it easier for what little slide playing I'm capable of. I should note that "high" action for me is still relatively low, maybe 7/64" at the bass E and 4/64" at the top E at the 12th fret. The neck has just a tiny bit of relief. This set-up allows me to play anything I normally play on other guitars but I think the tone is a little better with the thicker strings. Set-up on Gibson guitars is easy; just take a look at a bunch of YouTube videos and your are pretty much set to go. A 2017 guitar should not need much; frets should be level so maybe just a truss rod tweak to set the neck with a small amount of relief once you've chosen your preferred string gauges. What amp(s) are you running through?
  4. Hi Michael: Welcome to this group. Please invest in guitar stands; your picture scares me as it shows how LP headstocks get broken off. 'love the baby Voxes. You will love the ES-335.
  5. Technically, the picture shows a "good"break; it's long, looks quite clean and there is a massive surface area for the glue to work on. I'd very comfortable fix this myself; just use good glue and lots of clamps then use super fine sand paper to clean up the lines of the break and re-polish. The break looks so clean that I'm sure it will not be obvious once repaired. There doesn't appear to be any missing chunks/splinters.
  6. Sorry; just re-read. Both pups work in the middle position so the pup wiring is not the issue pointing to a switch problem as you suspected. Weird that the problem persists with a new switch. Is it possible that your original switch wiring was wrong and you simply duplicated the same when installing the new switch? This is the only scenario that makes sense to me.
  7. Sorry for the late response: Black is start and white is finish. Loose, exposed wires are a liability as they are delicate and one will eventually break. I would try to very carefully redirect the wires under the side tape wraps, maybe even remove the tape and start again from scratch. Just file the end of the rivet flat and push it through. Good luck!
  8. If you are talking about how to attach the bracket to the pickguard, not superglue; as it's gasses may discolour the new pick guard! Use a regular household like UHU.
  9. Yes. The bridge (and strings) should be grounded. Your description of the problem answered this. Great looking guitar.
  10. If the switch is good then check the connections at the pots and while you are at it check to see if there is continuity through the bridge pup using a multimeter. If there is no current passing through the pup then it could be that the pup has a broken wire (happened to me on a neck pup).
  11. This is why you must always wipe-down all the metal parts before putting a guitar away for a while; it does not take much time for things to get bad. If the pups are (were!) gold plated then there's nothing that can be done except clean the pups and put up with the missing gold. Hopefully the corrosion is light and doesn't go deep into the top of the pups. If it's deep then the damage is done and you will just gave to refer to the new look as "mojo". If this were my problem, I'd un-string, put a cloth over the guitar and completely remove the pups from the rings to get at the tops and the sides with a light metal polish. Good luck
  12. Alco Flower: Lots of great advice already given here. Please try it yourself; I equate "guitar techs" to "bicycle techs"; really easy stuff to do but people pay lots of money to both 'techs" because they don't take the time to learn simple techniques themselves. As you are a learner, I strongly recommend staying away from electronic tuners (said this already I know). They make your ears lazy and force you to only play along with songs on records/CDs/YouTube/whatever that are in "correct" pitch. Intonate using your ears! Don't get addicted to electronic tuners. When I was a kid (14) I bought an acoustic Epiphone 12 string guitar. With so many strings, if you simply start from the bass E and work up, by the time you get to the top E, the lower ones are out of tune; you have to bounce around the board doing all 12 strings at the same time, getting it roughly in concert pitch then fine tuning. An electronic tuner is useless for this. That old 12 string really helped me quick tune by ear. I noted that you dropped string gauges to Super Slinky but from what? I'm guessing the factory strings were 10-46 or Regular Slinky using EB nomenclature. Dropping to 9-42 from 10-46 should not have enough of an impact on your neck tension to warrant a truss rod move if the guitar was already set up OK but you may find that some of your buzzing comes from the strings being slinkier and simply moving more due to the lower tension, especially when you are rocking harder. Going light with strings does make things easier for beginners. I've been playing for a long time and still like light strings; I use Extra Slinky strings 08-038 on several of my guitars. Good luck newbie. Enjoy your guitar!
  13. The difference between now and when I was a kid is the Internet. There are loads of how-to videos, many really good ones that explain exactly what to do, how to do it and why. There is no excuse not to learn this stuff yourself and do it. There is nothing special about a Gibson guitar; Gibsons don't have to be taken to a Luthier for set-up. Give the man a fish or teach him to fish.....
  14. Hi folks, I'm late joining in on this discussion. Static is not a new problem and it's not specific to Gibsons. The charge has to be coming from somewhere and I don't think it's the guitar. Newfiesig: You may simply be very unfortunate to be a highly static-electric charged person, highly likely a function of what you wear, what you walk on and the humidity of the rooms you play in. I'd be interested to know if this problem is always at home, in the same environment. A really simple test would be to lend your guitar, for a week, to your best, most trusted guitar pal who has never had static problems like you and see what happens. If your static issue is clearly only with you and at home then it may be something as simple as taking your socks off if you are playing on a carpeted area. You may have to get rid of your favourite sweater. Electric guitars should not generate static electricity; I've got lots and none of them do. A slight change of topic but something to remind us that we are not all the same and that our guitars may not be to blame; I had a friend who had body oils/sweat that was so acidic that he rusted his guitar strings in just a few hours of playing. I had never seen anything like it; brand new strings turning black as you watched. He had to wash his hands before playing every time or fork out for another set of strings.
  15. YES: do it yourself, learn the basics and you will be able to take care of your own guitar(s) and set them up for your own preference. lots of good advice but I have a few more "2c" to add. What do you play? how do you play? These are important considerations; if you play or want to learn to play slide for example, then you really want heavier gauge strings and a higher action. If you are just starting out then I'd advise going with lighter gauges, but lighter gauge strings move more so will tend to buzz more at low action. You may want to start with a slightly higher action until you get a handle on how the guitar feels. For what it is worth, this is what I do: - Tune my very low gauge 008 to 038 strings to pitch - Capo on first, right finger on 14th fret and lightly pluck the strings between capo and finger. I want to hear a clear tone with the lowest action; almost a flat neck. I tweak the truss rod as required to achieve this goal. - Adjust the height of the bridge end so that the strings are only just not buzzing; plug the guitar in for this as it's easier to hear when a string is being muted (losing sustain) when through an amp. Sometimes the buzzing will be gone but there may be dead or deader notes especially at the high end of the neck so play every fret on each string at the high end. I don't care what the actual string height is. Who cares? If it plays well without buzzing then mission accomplished. - Adjust the saddles to correct intonation. I do this be ear, always have; same with tuning. I've never owned or needed an electronic tuner; I'm not saying they are "bad" just don't get addicted to electronic tuners. Too many guitarists I know can't jam if the song is played out of regular pitch. You will know what I mean if you've ever kicked back on the sofa and played along to YouTube live concerts. Sorry, off track but this really bugs me. Watching someone painfully tune, dead slowly, to and electronic tuner is sad. Good luck and tell us how it goes
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