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rickc

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About rickc

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    Guitars, Motorbikes, my truck, my kids
  1. As rct first notes above, we need to clearly understand what "buzz" means; is this fret buzz or bridge/nut sitar buzz or something else loose buzz? Also as rct notes, set-up is not rocket science. If the neck is good, frets are leveled and nut and bridge are good (strings not moving around in the slots) then it's very simple to set-up a guitar; there are loads of really good YouTube videos explaining every step. I check neck relief by pushing a string down on the first fret with my left forefinger, the same string down with my right thumb where the body meets the neck and then push down with my right forefinger about half way between the two. I like my necks to be almost flat; if I pluck the string lightly, I should hear a clear, non-buzzing note in between my left finger and right thumb, indicating a small amount of relief in the neck. Some get out feeler gauges and capos and do the same, aiming for a 0.008-0.010" relief at the midway point. Just be warned that if you do manage to set up your neck almost flat and playable at low action, when the weather changes you will be correcting the truss rod tension. I typically have to do this two or three times a year; no biggie. Kentaff: Is what you are describing a fret buzz when playing or does the buzz also occur on open strings? If open string buzzing then you have a bridge/nut/something else issue. Sitar buzzes are more metallic with lots of high frequencies and are typically caused by loose strings in the bridge saddles so look closely and see if you can physically move the strings sideways as they rest in the saddles. The same can happen at the nut but it's less likely. As the buzzing started after the new pups were installed, it is possible that the buzzing is coming from the pup cover(s) touching something; the rings, a wire underneath; all depends on what the buzz sounds like. It may even be something in the cavity but highly unlikely. Your comment about the second "luthier" having to raise the bridge suggest that the problem is fret buzzing. If it is obviously string/fret buzzing then recheck you neck relief first before doing anything else. Some numbers from you would be helpful: - What is the neck relief (using a capo on the 1st, touching down at the 19th fret and measuring the gap between the low E string and the 10th fret? - What is the 12th fret action low E and high E? Typically this would be somewhere around 5/64" or 6/64" and 3/64" or 4/64". - Did you change string gauges and if so, from what to what? Beware of "luthiers". Real luthiers can build guitars from scratch, remove glued-on necks, change fingerboards, re-fret, perform magic on finish flaws. The other guys are just guitar techs; there is a big difference. Good luck
  2. I have an 80 ES Artist; the boards, switches and wring are the same as the LP Artist. This is the only thing I have in my files:
  3. As stated earlier and correctly by a few contributors despite some very clear confusion of others about how an electric guitar works and is grounded, the strings are grounded through the bridge (Nashville) or tailpiece (ABR-1) via a single wire that connects the bottom bridge/tailpiece post typically to one of the pots and on to the output jack. It is common to see this ground missing in Les Paul wiring diagrams so it is possible that when a guitar is modded, the ground may be missing or disturbed. The bridge/tailpiece post ground wire is very simply pushed into place through a small hole inside the guitar before the post is installed and the post is then push fit into the guitar so that it makes contact with wire. Rather hokey, so it is no wonder that sometimes this mechanical contact fails. I have seen some pro players guitars with a very clear, external ground wire connecting to the bridge on top of the guitar; probably ABR-1, using a little wire popping out of the bottom, rear corner of the bridge pickup. Whatever, if the ground wire is working, the guitar will NOT buzz loudly until grounded by the player. I have owned three Gibsons for over 25 years and none of them have ever had ground issues. They do not buzz when plugged into an amp. The OP is describing a grounding fault. Alex Lifeson's guitar below. A Nashville with an external ground.
  4. rickc

    Share your ES's

    More pretty things. A 1988 ES335 dot and a 1980 ES Artist:
  5. Odd head shots. From the front, the truss rod cover looks about 2mm too high above the nut, the nut just looks wrong how it slopes down from the left to right and the thistle inlay is bent to the right. From the rear, it looks like the tuners' screws are aligned on one side but not on the others; I've seen this on other Gibsons but not as pronounced as this. Looks like an Epiphone bridge. As noted already, this should be a TD not a TDC so the label style is wrong. Very weird.
  6. This is a very common problem. Try turning the guitar volume down to around 50-60% and increasing your amp volume to achieve the volume you wish to play at; your guitar output may be slightly over-driving the amp, accentuating the three higher strings output preferentially to E. You may have to experiment to find the guitar volume knob sweet spot. Good luck.
  7. Gino753: This is not "normal". Try looking up the neck from the bridge; this is what I do to quickly check neck relief and it may also give a better perspective on neck "twist" to the body. It's not really a twist you are looking for but a bend all the way down the neck. If you can set up the guitar to play well this is just a cosmetic issue but based on the picture of the heel I'd expect the fingerboard to be tilted towards the bass end.
  8. Sorry for the late response. I have a Hohner G3T but it has the same Steinberger trem. There's no such thing as a master tuning screw so I assume you mean the single, big thumbwheel at the back centre under the bridge. The purpose of this screw is to adjust the tension on the whammy spring so that when the strings are in tune, the bridge is flat; same function as the pair of trem spring claw screws behind most whammy guitars. My bridge has a small lever that locks the bridge flat if the whammy is not in use or when changing strings or changing tunings. If you have the same, lock the bridge, put on the new strings, tune to pitch and then adjust the big screw so that the locking lever can only just be unlocked and locked. That's it. Adjusting the intonation and string height is another thing and is a little fiddly but really easy. If you do not have the locking lever then you need to find another way to lock the bridge flat when putting strings on and tuning to pitch.
  9. not sure "cleaned it" included cleaning the strings. Putting a guitar away with dirty (not wiped-down) strings is likely the main cause for the problem described by the OP.
  10. Hi and welcome. My 88 dot reissue has had 008"-038", 009"-042" and 010"-046" strings, each for long lengths of time. Eventually, I decided to keep it at the heavier 010"-046" and even cranked the action up a little to make it easier for what little slide playing I'm capable of. I should note that "high" action for me is still relatively low, maybe 7/64" at the bass E and 4/64" at the top E at the 12th fret. The neck has just a tiny bit of relief. This set-up allows me to play anything I normally play on other guitars but I think the tone is a little better with the thicker strings. Set-up on Gibson guitars is easy; just take a look at a bunch of YouTube videos and your are pretty much set to go. A 2017 guitar should not need much; frets should be level so maybe just a truss rod tweak to set the neck with a small amount of relief once you've chosen your preferred string gauges. What amp(s) are you running through?
  11. Hi Michael: Welcome to this group. Please invest in guitar stands; your picture scares me as it shows how LP headstocks get broken off. 'love the baby Voxes. You will love the ES-335.
  12. Technically, the picture shows a "good"break; it's long, looks quite clean and there is a massive surface area for the glue to work on. I'd very comfortable fix this myself; just use good glue and lots of clamps then use super fine sand paper to clean up the lines of the break and re-polish. The break looks so clean that I'm sure it will not be obvious once repaired. There doesn't appear to be any missing chunks/splinters.
  13. Sorry; just re-read. Both pups work in the middle position so the pup wiring is not the issue pointing to a switch problem as you suspected. Weird that the problem persists with a new switch. Is it possible that your original switch wiring was wrong and you simply duplicated the same when installing the new switch? This is the only scenario that makes sense to me.
  14. Sorry for the late response: Black is start and white is finish. Loose, exposed wires are a liability as they are delicate and one will eventually break. I would try to very carefully redirect the wires under the side tape wraps, maybe even remove the tape and start again from scratch. Just file the end of the rivet flat and push it through. Good luck!
  15. If you are talking about how to attach the bracket to the pickguard, not superglue; as it's gasses may discolour the new pick guard! Use a regular household like UHU.
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