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zombywoof

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zombywoof last won the day on April 10

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About zombywoof

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  1. I zap the emails from Gibson. Also zap those from Fender. Not sure how heck I ended up on the Taylor mailing list but I zap those as well - just quicker.
  2. I had a 1935 Gibson-made Capital archtop (the house brand of Jenkins Music) which was X braced. But I thought all Gibson archtops from around 1935 to 1939 were X braced. We used to refer to them as having a two hump top.
  3. Guitar Center and MF are offering this model with a price tag of $5K. So unless I am missing something, the seller of this particular one is on puppy chow. Based on just looks though I will pass.
  4. I have said it before and I will say it again - Rotomatics just look so wrong on a J45. While I generally stick with white or black buttons I did like the look of the Grover Sta-Ties with metal buttons I slapped on one of my Harmony Sovereigns. Made it look just a bit classier.
  5. The bracing carve and ADJ saddle bridge give a 1966 Gibson a sound which is unique. But as noted in an above post the skimpy carve and narrow nut also gives the neck a unique feel. Generally it is the neck which is a make or break factor with these guitars. Not a good or a bad thing - just different. But keep in mind while a bridge can be modified or swapped out down the road there is not a thing you can do about the neck if you decide it is not to your liking..
  6. While there was an L1 reissue available in the 1990s the last one I can recall was a short run from around 2011 or 2012. Are these what you are talking about?
  7. This outrage has been simmering in you to the point eight years later you still feel the need to express it? Other than that how do you like Kansas? I lived there for around ten years. Some great guitar shops. The Kansas Guitar Exchange and Mass Street Music could always bring a smile to my face.
  8. Cool! Gibson started shipping SJNs during the latter part of 1962 so they could just as well also shipped natural top B45-12s later in the year. I owned a 1963 B45-12 which had been built with a re-purposed SJN body. There was a white classical guitar style Gibson label in the guitar covering the model stamp.
  9. While that site is convenient it is pretty much a reprint of what others have published. So errors can be repeated. Back in the day, as example, the site stated the J50 was introduced in 1947 which is what appeared in the 1st edition of the Fabulous Flattops book. For my money the best source on pre-War Gibsons is the UMGF.
  10. I had the divots repaired some 12 years ago. Raising the wood fiber keeps the repaired areas from sticking out like a sore thumb and reduces the potential for uneven wear and tear down the road. It does cost a bit more than say simply filling with sawdust and glue. No serious plane of the neck but obviously some sanding was needed.
  11. I had divots the size of Crater Lake in my 1956 SJ. As best I can recall, my repair guy dug into the divots and raised some of the wood fibers and then used a filler of rosewood sawdust and resin or glue to fill them in. Other that under a strong direct sunlight you could not see where the work had been done while the filled spaces felt no different than the rest of the board.
  12. The lack of a center back strip alone would immediately tell you the guitar is an LG1 rather than an LG2. It is a bit tough to figure out what the first letter in the FON is. Looks almost like a "W". As you apparently have figured out though an FON starting with a "Y" followed by four digits would be 1953. The burst, of course, is wat you would expect to find on a spruce top LG1 while a teardrop scratch plate was par for the course up to some time in 1955. I am at a loss though as to what that second number stamped inside is.
  13. Is the guitar worth the money to fix up properly? You betcha. A number of the issues such as the divots in the fretboard, bellying, and cracks are not a big deal and based on what I have paid to have such issues dealt with in the past should not be all that expensive. That added rosette is rather hideous. It might be possible to undo it though. Also if you are planning to replace the bridge entirely you should also consider replacing the bridge plate. Depends on whether you are concerned about the ability to return the guitar to stock condition. And I personally would have left the in
  14. I own a 1932 L1 . It is one of the last 12 fretters. While the Gibson Avanced L body guitars such as your L-00 started to be built heavier after 1933 the HG-00 as a slack key guitar had a heftier build to be able to handle the string tension. All in all though, they were still very lightly built for a lap guitar. I think though Gibson really hit it out of the ballpark with the Smeck and the HG-00.
  15. The HG-00 is a great guitar. They have more volume and a slower decay than the Advanced L body guitars. But what did your fiend have converted? Pretty much all you ever had to do with these guitars is lower the saddle and you were good to go.
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