cliffmac
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Posts posted by cliffmac
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Also if you do indeed have a major flaw with this guitar register with epiphone for the warranty and get in touch with them they are awesome when it comes to customer service.
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So this is off topic...but I'm hoping you may be able to help.
I know nothing about guitars and I just purchased the 220SCE for my husband for Christmas and received it yesterday. I'm having two issues with it...first, the E on the pick guard had a piece of protective plastic on it that was bubbled up. I tried to remove it and though it came off without too much trouble on the sides of the E, that can't be said for the middle and sides of the E - it pretty much melted on. I did talk to someone at Guitar Center who said that it probably melted to the E when they heated up the E to stick to the pick guard. Is yours like this? Do you have any tips to remove the plastic?
And then there is about a 2in line around the rim of the sound hole that is missing the black lacquer finish. Is this something that shouldn't be with a brand new guitar?
Thanks in advance for any help :)
Can You Post a Picture of the Problem Area around the sound hole?
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Yeah that's kind of the problem. On the inside it says "EJ200CE", despite the fact that its serial nr tells me that it's guitar from 2014, so it should be a solid one (I was told).
So I was hoping there would be anyone else with a solid top but ej-200ce written on the inside.
No doubt it is solid my friend ENJOY!!
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It's almost impossible to see for me, since there's quite a thick layer of varnish on the edge of the sound hole. I checked the SN and it's from june 2014. I guess/hope that it's a solid top then.
As long as there's no one else with "EJ-200SCE" written on the inside I'll give it the benefit of the doubt!
According to Epiphone Wiki the EJ200CE has a laminate top and the EJ200SCE is a solid Sitka spruce top so if it is a EJ200sce She is solid without a doubt.
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Rereading through these...
One thought came to mind...
"Awwwwwww heck, just play some and buy whatever you will. Odds are it'll be swapped or otherwise "gone" in 10 years if you're a young picker and left in a case if you're an old picker. So just go ahead and make your mistakes like all the rest of us have."
<grin>
m
lmao true enough
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Hate to p**s on anyones parade here but I'll think you'll find the S stands for Sunburst (N = Natural & B = Black)
All EJ200CEs manufactured after I think Aug 2013 (obviously there will still be older guitars in shops stocks so you need to check the S/N) have solid tops.
As I said in my earlier post
Have a close look at the edge of the soundhole (use a magnifying glass if need be)
If it's a solid top you'll see the grain running through the edge, if it's laminated then you'll see the layers.
Takes a couple of mins to do you'll know for certain what you've got.
Simples
In the case of Sunburst it would be VS {vintage sunburst} not S
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No not even close but it does come with a solid top as do the others without the "S" designation
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EJ-200SCE means Epiphone Jumbo, S solid top, C cutaway, E electric
EJ-200CE Is missing the (S) ..which generally would mean to say that it is NOT A SOLID TOP, and is Laminated instead.
Therefore, If your new Epiphone is labeled.... EJ-200CE.... inside the sound hole, then it is probably a laminated top as the store manager told you. ...Because it is missing the (S) which stands for SOLID TOP. Enjoy your new guitar! Laminated is not always a bad thing...Laminated is a very durable wood..perhaps the most durable of all woods so that temperatures and humidity changes will affect it MUCH less.
Hope this helps. .... GL
I disagree Any Masterbuilt Dr500 MCE Is solid wood top as well as the EF500CCE, Dove Pro, IB1864 Texan, Dave Navarone Jane, and of course the EJ200CE, and the Pro 1 Ultra
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I saw the pics and wow truly never wanted one till now
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Doesn't matter what it is. How beautiful is that!!
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Ultimately, like anything the value of these guitars is either what someone else will pay for them or what they are worth to you.
If you're simply looking to move them I'd suggest taking the book prices, double them and stick them on Ebay/Craigslist with that as a BIN or best offer price and take decent offer. If nothing is forthcoming then drop by 30% and try again.
Insurance valuation - then book price +100%
If based on what they are worth to you then how long is a piece of string. My old Tanglewood TW400N is one of the earliest out of the factory in Korea and doesn't look like it had a piece of machinery near it (pencil marks all over the insides, braces obviously cut and finished by hand, file marks and the odd finger print!) Doesn't look like it had a luthier anywhere near it either (see previous sentence) and is probably worth £25.00 ($40.00) on a good day. However, knowing its history, the abuse it has suffered in terms of huge variations in terms of temperature (sub zero to 120+F) and humidity whilst living without any sort of case in an uninsulated loft space for several years, and yet the neck is still straight as a die, the top is flat and it is still structurally 98% (a brace needs a touch of glue) plus it has been with me through thick and thin for over 25 years we would be talking 5 figures before you'd get close to persuading me to part with it.
I agree this SS Stewart archtop has a lot of history behind it. The previous owner about killed it but I'm going to save it cause it deserves it.
Price of guitar and parts 100 bucks price of accomplishing something I'm proud of PRICELESS!!!!
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So how would a person know if they had a Presentation or Excellente model of the FT-120?
Unless you have a serial number or a model number it is one hell of a task but if you do have those contact epiphone or check out the un official epiphone Wikipedia site
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This has nothing to do with Japanese quality in general. Even back then, the "Copy Era" instruments manufactured in Japan by companies such as Ibanez were indeed first rate. The capability has been there for a long time. It's just a matter of what price point & segment of the market was being targeted by the distributor.
Before the sale to ECL, the possibility of producing Epiphone product in Japan had been taken under consideration and by 1970, Epiphone production in the United States shut down and moved to Matsumoto, Japan. However for the first few years of production, Epiphone guitars made in Japan were actually rebranded designs already produced by the Matsumoku Company. The Epiphone line was now a virtual orphan in the guitar world.
Models gradually improved. In 1976, Epiphone introduced the Monticello, a series of scroll-body electrics, the Presentation, a new range of flat tops, and the Nova series of flat tops along with the Genesis solid body line. By 1979, the Epiphone product list was gathering speed, with over 20 steel-string flat tops and electrics
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As far as the Japan made guitars its all hit or miss Quality was an issue back in the day ( 1970's )
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I have 2 Epiphones that were made in Japan. An FT-120 and FT-160. Both are in fantastic shape and have no defects or scratches on them. Question is are these guitars worth much of anything these days? They are beautiful guitars, but I have heard some negativity about them being made in Japan.
Thanks
Steve
From what I know the FT120 Excellente is a hit and miss but that's epiphone for you the hits are worth between 100 to 250 and the Ft !60 was an early Texan attempt rare and worth 200 to 400.
Epiphone EJ-200((S)CE)
in Epiphone Acoustics
Posted
That guitar looks just fine he is going to love it. No worries on the sound hole. As for the E you should be able to gently peel it off with heat like hairdryer and tweezers.