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sbpark last won the day on March 9

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  1. In my experience removing the pickup MIGHT elect a SLIGHT improvement in tone, but I highly doubt it will elect a world-changing difference that will all of a sudden made this guitar sound magical. If it sounds dead, flat and like a cheap laminate guitar there's probably nothing you're going to do that will change it so much that you'll turn it into something completely different than what it already is. Better to part ways with it and put that money toward a guitar you can't put down and just want to play all the time. I've been through this exact dilemma. I've owned two SJ200's. One wa
  2. Awesome cover! I'm also curious to hear your thoughts on that particular model.
  3. Why haven't many of the 110+ reissues survived?
  4. Man, if I had the funds and the access to all the guitars mentioned in this thread (LG-2, Waterloos, etc.) I'd just get out and play them all and see what I preferred. Honestly, at this level and price point as long as you know what you're getting into and the basic characteristics of these guitars and how they sound, it's probably going to be pretty tough to go wrong!
  5. Check out the WL-K. Mahogany back and sides, spruce top, 12-fretter.
  6. How is someone being an "agitator" when you're comparing one brand to another? Just because it's a Gibson forum doesn't mean it's blasphemy to talk about other brands, especially when it's offering comparisons for reference. I respectfully disagree that others will mention other brands just to cause trouble. Not true.
  7. Crap, you're right. I guess we should have asked Sgt. Pepper first! My bad. I've never owned a Collings, but have had a few Waterloos. Nuts are 1 3/4" and depending in the model have pretty substantial necks. Of course they aren't going to sound exactly like an old LG-2, and they do have a different neck joint as well in comparison. Just food for thought to add to the list to check out.
  8. For the price of admission I'd be looking at a Waterloo (and used for an even better deal) and save over a grand. But if that's what you really want and money isn't an issue, go for it!
  9. Exactly. You'd tell us what we should do because you know more than we do (in your mind).
  10. Don't waste your time arguing with this guy. He's just here to complain and agitate people and he's always gotta have the last word. Yo can't win. He's apparently always right and knows way better than you or me on anything. I'm still waiting for him to start complaining again about why there isn't more Martin content on a Gibson forum.
  11. That what the whole point of my post. I guess I wasn't making that clear enough with the pictures and explanation and all about ramping the bridge slots for the B and high E strings.
  12. I guess my bias is from the old days when I used to frequent the AGF. The cork sniffers there seemed to also prefer bigger necks. Also, part of my preference comes from the electric guitar world, and also prefer chunkier necks with electrics. I have a Tele I put together with a pretty substantial neck and a 2008 SG Classic that has a really nice chunky neck. Also have a Classic 50's Fiesta Red Strat that doesn't really have a big neck, but it is a nice "V" shape and that guitar is probably the easiest guitar to play. My Precision bass has a 1.75" nut which is pretty wide for a P-bass, but it i
  13. I prefer a big, chunky neck. The big V on the Waterloo WL-14's is fantastic, and so is the neck on my Waterloo WL-K. Seems like a lot of companies put some sort of slim/slim-taper neck on their standard models, and reserve the bigger, chunkier necks for their higher end models. I suspect this is because a lot fo people like a chunky neck. If you want a chunky neck you have to pay up.
  14. Slottiting the bridge does not affect the action. Keeping the saddle where it is and slotting the bridge simply crates a steeper break angle over the saddle, providing more downward force on the saddle, which can in this case improve tone. Has nothing to do with lowering the action.
  15. As far as slotting/ramping the bridge, did you notice a difference? I ask because pretty much every J4-45 Standard I've encountered in the last 7-8 years have all been very consistent, but this means the B and high E strings all have had shallow break angles over the saddle. This seems to be problematic with the B especially because that shallow break angle couple with the B having the lowest string tension compared to all the other strings causes a bit of a "B-string buzz". I've had this happen on pretty much every J-45 Standard I've owned (this is the third one) I've owned. The current
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