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sbpark

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Everything posted by sbpark

  1. Decided to get new pickups for my Casino. Just can't decide what color covers to get. Do I send the original chrome covers to get re-wound, or do I go with creme or black covers?
  2. Yep, Fralin was about 4 weeks, Lollar about 2 weeks for a rewind. I actually end up going with a Fralin set. Standard bridge and -10% neck. It's the 'short neck' version, so it will seamlessly drop into the Casino. Only reason to get the stockers rewound would be to keep the chrome covers. I'm cool with black covers, and if I ever sold the guitar down the road I could put the stockers back in and keep the Fralins. Once I get the pickups I'll drop them in and a new 50's style wiring harness and will be out of commission for a day, not weeks.
  3. Yes, I really need to replace the pickups. They sound way too hot. With some dirt on them you lose a lot of clarity and not separation. I get more definition from my '57 Classics in my SG Standard. The super hot pickups just mud up too much and you lose the hollow body sound . Trust me< i don't want to put new pickups in the guitar, I just don't think the stock pickups work for the style of music I play, which is old school country, americana, alt-country type stuff. Thats funny, because I spoke to Lollar 2 days ago and said they'd rewind my Casino pickups for me. Guess I'll be sending them to Lindy Fralin then!
  4. I want something more old school/vintage sounding. The stock pickups are just way to hot for my liking.
  5. Looking to replace the stock pickups with something less hot and more 'authentic' or old school sounding. So far the only ones I know of that will drop in with no mods are the Kent Armstrong P90 set. Still a tad hot at 8.2k, but still better than stock and the price is right (about $106 for the pair. Made overseas yes, but guessing they are am improvement over the stockers!) Are there any other pickups out there that are a direct drop in? I guess the bridge pickup isn't much of a problem and it's the neck pickup that has different dimensions and causes problems fitting aftermarket pickups? Any experience with Fralins or Lollars? Any advice from others that have replaced the pickups in their Casinos would be greatly appreciated! Mine is a new, 2014 limited run that was for GC/Musician's Friend in the metallic gold, made in China. Thanks in advance!
  6. I'm going to replace the wiring harness for my Casino. was wondering what others have used? Looking for something pre-wired, thats good quality. I found this harness through Mojotone. It's pricey, but nice components: http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/ES-335-Wiring-Kits/Pre-Wired-ES-335-Style-PREMIUM-Wiring-Kit#.VNL7x74-ATN Anyone have any other recommendations? Thanks!
  7. Is it an Epiphone 'thing' among people who own many of them to not remove the plastic film and stickers from the pickguards? I've seen more than a few members on here who apparently leave these things on their guitars and have no idea why! It's like buying a new car and leaving the factory sticker on the window of your new car for years after you buy it! Very nice guitars, I just think it's a bit cheesy to leave those stickers on. I guess if you're a 'collector' and never plan on playing the guitars and just want to look at them and have them retain some sort of value, but if you play them, remove that stuff!
  8. sbpark

    Capo?

    Definitely are nice to have! I'd recommend a Planet waves or Shubb brand capo. You can adjust the tension on them, unlike a Kyser. The Kyser puts a lot of tension on the strings that can easily make them go sharp, forcing you to re-tune. With the Planet Waves or Shub you can dial in just enough tension to work, without going sharp. Makes for quicker on and off in between playing.
  9. Haha. Definitely not my grip strength. When I took it to get set up the tech started laughing at how high the nut was cut. I really wish I had before and after pictures. It's was a major difference and major improvement. Playing an 'F' chord in first position was a chore, and seriously every fretted note sounded pretty bad. Now that he folded down the nut and slots it plays like butter.
  10. I personally wouldn't make my decision based on price and what's on the headstock. Play all the guitars that fit within your proposed budget. To be honest, a "mid-range" epiphone still isn't going to be similar in cost to any "low-end" Gibson. I am pretty much a Fender guy, owning 3 fenders, but also have 2 Gibsons and now 1 Epiphone. All my guitars range in price and "perceived" quality. I say perceived, because just because a guitar has a certain name on the headstock doesn't means it's automatically a winner, or a good example of that brand. My "cheap" Gibson Melody Maker probably gets more play time than my '13 Gibson SG Standard, but my Epi Casino is probably my second favorite guitar next to my Fender 52AVRI. These days I don't base how good an instrument is based on what it says on the headstock. It's based more on whether or mot it meets my needs and feels good playing it. Now, with all that said, there can sometimes be valid reasons why some guitars cost more. Perceived (I used that word again!) quality of "tone woods" (whatever that means) and quality of components, country of origin and demand in the market. Some people, like myself buy a guitar and keep it stock for the most part. Unless theres something glaring wrong and it's an easy fix, I don't go messing with stuff like changing out pickups, etc. Well, I will play the guitar for a long time and if I decide to change them down the line I might. ( I recently switched out the Fender OV pickups in my Tele with Nocasters just to try something different after owning the guitar for 3 years, and replaced a intermittent/crackling switch that was going bad) But I never understood why guys will buy a guitar, and then once they get it home guy it, swap out the pickups, pots, tuners, wiring harness, bridge, etc. If you're going to do all that, why don't you just take that money you spent on parts and instead buy the guitar you really wanted in the first place. Seems like so many guys have a bunch of money sunk into their Epiphones in upgrades, that they could have actually bought a nice Gibson! Plus, all those upgrades doesn't equal a higher resale value, and sometime can lower the value if it's not original. Others are straight forward cork-sniffers, and think if it doesn't say a certain name on the headstock, then it's inferior. So I say instead of basing your decision on which mid level, low end, etc. guitar to buy, instead figure out a budget first of all. Then figure out what sound your looking for and then start searching out models that seem to fit that sound. Next, read as much as you can about them, but most importantly, go and play as many of them as you can in your budget range. Also try some similar guitar in a higher price range. You might find that those more expensive guitars don't seem that different, or different enough to warrant the higher price tag, or you may be blown away an something about it just speaks to you, and you'll save up more to have that guitar. I just think basing which guitar you're going to get on what the headstock says will leave you unhappy and disappointed in the along run. And on the flip side, if the headstock absolutely has to say a certain name on it for whatever reason that is to you, that/s also important and don't sell yourself short for anything else. Keep in mind, even higher end, more expensive guitars usually need, or will at least greatly benefit from a good set up. I am new to Epiphones, but in my quest for my Casino I played several, and noticed the set ups were all over the place. All were at different Guitar Center locations, so there are many variables that can cause this. Uneducated staff who just unpack a guitar that's been shipped across the world in a container and through various climate changes, etc., without even doing a basic setup. Don't be shy about asking the repair guy (if the shop has one) to change the action for you, add/take away some relief on the neck, etc. If you're going to plunk down your hard-earned cash you want to know if the guitar will be able to be set up to your specs. What I have found consistent with the Casinos I looked at was the inconsistently cut nuts and frets that needed some attention. Again, an easy, but somewhat annoying fix, and feel like if a little more attention was paid to it at the factory, the guitar would have been more playable and stayed in tune and probably would sell more as a result. So expect to spend an additional $60-$80-$100 on a pro set up on pretty much ANY new guitar, regardless of manufacturer. It can turn an ok guitar (like a lot of Epiphones off the rack) into an incredible guitar that will play as good, or better than most Gibsons out there.
  11. to sharp is when it's VERY obvious and you can easily hear it when playing open chords in the first position.
  12. if the nut is cut so high that fretting chords causes the notes to be sharp, than the nut is cut INCORRECTLY. No matter of personal preference there, unless your presence is to have a poorly cut nut!
  13. The nut on my Casino was cut horribly. Slots were ridiculously high, making it almost unplayable and open chords sounded horrible and were pulling sharp because of the horribly cut but. The thing that cracked me up were the "inspected by" stickers and statements that the guitar was factory set up. I understand that things can go out of whack from the time the guitar leaves the factory and is shipped across the world in a container, but this was something totally different.
  14. Ah, so "select" equates to laminate. Thanks!
  15. The Epiphone wiki was useless. Said nothing about it being a laminate or not.
  16. Thinking about picking one of these up (used obviously since they aren't produced anymore). Just looking for something that sounds good, can leave it out on a stand next to the couch for noodling around and writing songs and ideas, for rehearsals, and would probably end up installing a decent sound hole pickup. My guess is it's all laminate? Are these worth it for around $100?
  17. While I definitely see your point of view and agree with you on most of it, I am leaning toward keeping the guitar. I looked about 4-5 other Casinos in the last week, all being current production Casinos and one was a 2011 Lennon version (FWIW, the Lennon version was decent, but had a few fit and finish flaws including a spot where someone at the factory got crazy with the sander and apparently burned through to the binding underneath on the upper cutaway, and horrible, rough f-holes). All of them seemed to vary with bridge height and what not. The reason I am probably going to keep this one is: 1.) it's very playable and feels great now that the kinks have been worked out, and... 2.) the pickup height seems spot on to where I want it for the bridge pickup. Since you can't lower the dog ear P90's, and raising them requires a shim, etc. I'm considering myself fortunate to have the action where I want it AND not have to mess with pickup heights. If one of those was not where I wanted it and was unable to adjust it easily, I'd definitely be sending the guitar back for sure. Now there's a little bit of adjustment left on the treble side to go lower with the action, but nowhere near 8-9mm; only maybe 3mm on the treble side, and 6mm left on the bass side. Sure it would be great to have the bridge a little higher since a higher bridge usually results in a fuller sound, more sustain, etc., but it's an electric guitar, and I'm not going for crazy, sweet, pristine cleans with this guitar. This is going through a slightly overdriven amp (BMRI LTD, AC15 or a '72 Princeton Reverb and a Silverface Champ). I still have a couple weeks to make my final decision, but still think she's a keeper! With how I play and how I can be heavy-handed at times, it just seems that they factory spec for action suits my playing. I am in no way saying that it has to be within spec for everyone, and I usually use factory specs as a good starting point, and then tweak to my personal taste, but found that feel, my style of playing combined with string buzz means that this is where it seems best for me.
  18. Not sure about flaking, but all gold hardware will wear over time, and it's not just with Epiphones. My brother's '87 SG was a special run and has all gold hardware that's mostly work off over the years. Banjos with gold-plated hardware also wears off. If it's a gold-plated part on a guitar, and you actually play the guitar like it's intended, it will tarnish and wear.
  19. I don't think it's crooked, and not sure why you think that. Pretty much every Gibson/Epiphone or style of guitar that uses these types of bridges has the treble side lower. My '13 SG Standard does. Neck ain't crooked. Took it to a luthier today. He may a few quick adjustments with the relief (took out a little) and raised the treble side of the bridge a bit and still kept the action at Gibson spec. Now I still have the ability to adjust in either direction on the treble side, and can go lower if I want. He said the guitar was pretty much near being set up perfect, just needed a couple very minor tweaks and said the neck angle was just fine and there's nothing wrong with the guitar. Now all I need to do is play it.
  20. It is a MF, GC thing. I bought it at one of those retailers, brand new.
  21. Thanks for the advice! So far the bridge is fine. No buzzing from it.
  22. I mentioned I don't get any buzzing when played. Again, my issue is maxing out the bridge on the treble side, having it as low as it will go to get the action to where it's recommended by the manufacturer.
  23. The P-bass is a 1976. Gorgeous bass. That was a ridiculous craigslist score I paid $250 for a couple years ago! I just need to make sure it's not a set up issue on my end. I once tried setting up my SG Standard and screwed it all up and thought the same thing. Then had a guy set it up and the action is nice and low, and the bridge seems to be sitting right in the middle of it's adjustment range. For some reason I can dial in a Fender really well, but can't with a Gibson or Epiphone!
  24. I wasn't referring to the headstock angle (which you may have confused neck angle with since you mentioned string trees). I was concerned with the neck angle in regards to it's relation/result of having to lower the bridge as low as it is to get the action where it is. Hopefully this makes more sense! The guitar plays well now. Wouldn't want to action any lower on the low side since it will buzz more, and be heard when plugged in. Now it doesn't buzz when plugged in unless I'm really digging in. I tend to have a heavy hand at times, so I don't really go for super low action.
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