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sbpark

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Everything posted by sbpark

  1. if the nut is cut so high that fretting chords causes the notes to be sharp, than the nut is cut INCORRECTLY. No matter of personal preference there, unless your presence is to have a poorly cut nut!
  2. The nut on my Casino was cut horribly. Slots were ridiculously high, making it almost unplayable and open chords sounded horrible and were pulling sharp because of the horribly cut but. The thing that cracked me up were the "inspected by" stickers and statements that the guitar was factory set up. I understand that things can go out of whack from the time the guitar leaves the factory and is shipped across the world in a container, but this was something totally different.
  3. Ah, so "select" equates to laminate. Thanks!
  4. The Epiphone wiki was useless. Said nothing about it being a laminate or not.
  5. Thinking about picking one of these up (used obviously since they aren't produced anymore). Just looking for something that sounds good, can leave it out on a stand next to the couch for noodling around and writing songs and ideas, for rehearsals, and would probably end up installing a decent sound hole pickup. My guess is it's all laminate? Are these worth it for around $100?
  6. While I definitely see your point of view and agree with you on most of it, I am leaning toward keeping the guitar. I looked about 4-5 other Casinos in the last week, all being current production Casinos and one was a 2011 Lennon version (FWIW, the Lennon version was decent, but had a few fit and finish flaws including a spot where someone at the factory got crazy with the sander and apparently burned through to the binding underneath on the upper cutaway, and horrible, rough f-holes). All of them seemed to vary with bridge height and what not. The reason I am probably going to keep this one is: 1.) it's very playable and feels great now that the kinks have been worked out, and... 2.) the pickup height seems spot on to where I want it for the bridge pickup. Since you can't lower the dog ear P90's, and raising them requires a shim, etc. I'm considering myself fortunate to have the action where I want it AND not have to mess with pickup heights. If one of those was not where I wanted it and was unable to adjust it easily, I'd definitely be sending the guitar back for sure. Now there's a little bit of adjustment left on the treble side to go lower with the action, but nowhere near 8-9mm; only maybe 3mm on the treble side, and 6mm left on the bass side. Sure it would be great to have the bridge a little higher since a higher bridge usually results in a fuller sound, more sustain, etc., but it's an electric guitar, and I'm not going for crazy, sweet, pristine cleans with this guitar. This is going through a slightly overdriven amp (BMRI LTD, AC15 or a '72 Princeton Reverb and a Silverface Champ). I still have a couple weeks to make my final decision, but still think she's a keeper! With how I play and how I can be heavy-handed at times, it just seems that they factory spec for action suits my playing. I am in no way saying that it has to be within spec for everyone, and I usually use factory specs as a good starting point, and then tweak to my personal taste, but found that feel, my style of playing combined with string buzz means that this is where it seems best for me.
  7. Not sure about flaking, but all gold hardware will wear over time, and it's not just with Epiphones. My brother's '87 SG was a special run and has all gold hardware that's mostly work off over the years. Banjos with gold-plated hardware also wears off. If it's a gold-plated part on a guitar, and you actually play the guitar like it's intended, it will tarnish and wear.
  8. I don't think it's crooked, and not sure why you think that. Pretty much every Gibson/Epiphone or style of guitar that uses these types of bridges has the treble side lower. My '13 SG Standard does. Neck ain't crooked. Took it to a luthier today. He may a few quick adjustments with the relief (took out a little) and raised the treble side of the bridge a bit and still kept the action at Gibson spec. Now I still have the ability to adjust in either direction on the treble side, and can go lower if I want. He said the guitar was pretty much near being set up perfect, just needed a couple very minor tweaks and said the neck angle was just fine and there's nothing wrong with the guitar. Now all I need to do is play it.
  9. It is a MF, GC thing. I bought it at one of those retailers, brand new.
  10. Thanks for the advice! So far the bridge is fine. No buzzing from it.
  11. I mentioned I don't get any buzzing when played. Again, my issue is maxing out the bridge on the treble side, having it as low as it will go to get the action to where it's recommended by the manufacturer.
  12. The P-bass is a 1976. Gorgeous bass. That was a ridiculous craigslist score I paid $250 for a couple years ago! I just need to make sure it's not a set up issue on my end. I once tried setting up my SG Standard and screwed it all up and thought the same thing. Then had a guy set it up and the action is nice and low, and the bridge seems to be sitting right in the middle of it's adjustment range. For some reason I can dial in a Fender really well, but can't with a Gibson or Epiphone!
  13. I wasn't referring to the headstock angle (which you may have confused neck angle with since you mentioned string trees). I was concerned with the neck angle in regards to it's relation/result of having to lower the bridge as low as it is to get the action where it is. Hopefully this makes more sense! The guitar plays well now. Wouldn't want to action any lower on the low side since it will buzz more, and be heard when plugged in. Now it doesn't buzz when plugged in unless I'm really digging in. I tend to have a heavy hand at times, so I don't really go for super low action.
  14. I recently picked up a Casino. I've been wanting one of these for quite a while. Never owned a hollow or semi-hollow body, and my other guitars either have single coils or humbuckers. A local big box shop has had this Casino hanging on the wall for a LONG time, and every time I stepped foot in there I'd see if they still had it. Deicded the other day that it was time to pull the trigger. The only downside was the guitar did not feel great to play, but man did it sound good! The P90's just have a great gritty, fat, gnarly bite to them, perfect for Son Volt and Wilco type stuff, and for the more rockin' type stuff.(I guess I play a combination of old-school country and more modern alt-country type stuff). The nut was cut WAY too high, neck had no relief and was just a hot mess to play. Got them to knock off $100, and then had them work on the nut. Open chords no longer go sharp now and it's much nicer. Neck has relief in it now and the action is dead on to Epiphone/Gibson specs. I polished the frets up to a mirror finish and now bends are way nicer (from the factory the frets were very rough.) Here's how I have the guitar set up currently: Neck relief: .008" (Low E string fretted at first and 15th fret, measuring relief at the 7th fret Action at the 12th fret: Low E: 6/64th's High E: 4/64th's Action at the 15th fret with string depressed at the 1st fret: Low E: 5/64th's High E: 3/64th's Pickup height for each pickup when fretted @ 22nd fret: (can't really adjust these because they are dog-ear P90's, aside from shimming to raise the height I guess. Bridge is a little lower than spec, and neck is a little higher than spec.) Bridge low E: 3.5/64th's Bridge high E: 2.5/64th's Necl low E: 5/64th's Neck high E: 5/64th's My only concern is the bridge is about as low as it will go on the treble side to get the action to where it is now. Have slight buzzing heard when played unplugged, but none when it's plugged in, which is perfect. There's still room on the bass side of the bridge for adjustment. So given all the measurements above, and the fact that the bridge is max'd out and as low as it will go on the treble side, is this a neck angle issue? Should I be concerned about this or am I just being too picky? The guitar feels good, I just worry when one adjustment or parameter is max'd out one way or the other, not really leaving anymore room for adjustment down the road. I will admit I tend to be more of a Fender guy and am more familiar with setting them up, and messing with my Gibsons and Epiphones is pretty new to me. I've read a few things about Gibson/Epi neck angles being all over the place, but usually they seem to be in the other direction, resulting in the bridges being set way higher. Since I'm new to this type of guitar, I'm just looking to educate myself and determine if I should keep the guitar or take it back while I still have the option. I love a lot of things about this guitar, especially it's sound and love the look, and am really digging the gold sparkle finish. I'm not a modder, and prefer to leave things as they are unless they are causing an problem, and spend my time playing instead of modding, because I've learned my lesson in the past and end up going down the proverbial "rabbit hole" when it comes to "upgrades"! With that said, I'm not opposed to replacing something like the bridge, etc. if it will result in a better set-up, and better playing guitar. Any advice or suggestions is encouraged and appreciated. Thanks in advance!
  15. That was what prompted me to check these out. I could never afford $1299 for a new one, and didn't really like the look of the older standard with the big pick guard. But I got a flyer int he mail that showed these were on sale. I actually even got it for a touch less than the blowout price! I guess they really wanted to get rid of them.
  16. So far this one is night and day difference. Better feel, a little heavier than the other one, and surprisingly a totally different sound. This one just sounds much bigger and more open. It even twangs!
  17. After picking up a vintage white SG yesterday and having issues with setting it up, I returned it today for another 2013 standard in heritage Cherry. Here's she is:
  18. I have adjusted the relief already. It it had extended neck relief, wouldn't I have found theta when measuring with feeler gauges when I was adjusting the truss rod?
  19. So less break angle between the tail piece and bridge? My understanding was a steeper the angle, the greater the sustain?
  20. First off, hello everyone! Just thought I'd combine my first post with an introduction and also ask a few questions that some of you might be able to help me with. I've been playing Fenders (Telecasters pretty much exclusively) for as long as I've been playing guitar (I'm 37 now, started playing in high school), and this is my first Gibson, so please go easy on me, as this is a pretty big change! I couldn't pass up the deals going on right now with the 2013 Standards, and ended up picking up one in vintage white for $819 plus tax. The shop I went to had a vintage white one and one in heritage cherry. I've always wanted one in cherry and think it's the classic SG color, but walked out with the white one. The cherry guitar was heavier (and now I am second-guessing myself thinking heavier may be better?) and had pretty bad grain matching with the two-piece body.The vintage white weighs 6.3lbs. Both guitars had very high action, so the sales person actually took them both to the luthier on staff and he set them both up for me and made it easier to decide. I guess the white one spoke to me more. I took the guitar home and fine-tunes the set up. NEVER set up a Gibson before in my life, but have been doing my own set up on my Tele (2006 '52 AVRI) and know my way around a Fender, but the Gibson is new for me! Here's how I set her up: Action at the 12th fret, unfretted on the bass side is 6/64", Treble side is 4/64". Seems like the standard is 3/64" on the treble side, but the bridge is max'd out as low as it will go on the treble side, but have more room to go lower on the bass side. I have 0.010" of relief in the neck measured with a capo on the first fret, fretting the 12th fret and measuring relief at the 7th fret. I have Ernie Ball Regular Slinky 10-46 on the guitar. When I measure the action at the first fret on the low E side it looks like is around 1/64", and 1-1.5/64" on the treble side. I'm wondering if the neck angle just isn't right on this guitar given that I'm max'd out on the action adjustment and it still isn't as low as it should be. Also, the guitar doesn't sustain that well, and that's comparing it to my Tele that has a bolt on neck. It also seems to go out of tune pretty easily, and by this I mean it goes flat pretty easily. I do a lot of string bending (country-style stuff) and would expect things to go sharp on a new guitar that hasn't has attention paid to the nut and the strings would be hanging up in the nut slots, but it never goes sharp with bends. Strings are new, but stretched and played for a little while. Hopefully you guys don't look at this as me just complaining! I just really loved the look and color of this guitar and the finish is really nice. Love the neck profile and feel, just wish I could get th exaction a little lower and curious as to why the bridge is cranked down to it's max. Hoping there are some pretty common, easy fixes, or should I take this one back and continue my search? Would be great to have an SG to go with the Tele and ad some diversity to the sound. FWIW, I play though a '68 Band Master (drip edge, with blackface circuit) through a '67 Band Master cab and a '59 Bamman Reissue LTD. Also have a 70's Silverface Champ. Thanks to everyone in advance for taking the time to read and reply. Hope to learn a lot from this forum! Just a note about the pictures, it may look like the break angle between the tail piece is to th point where the strings are touching the bridge before they reach the saddles, but they're not. Just looks that way in the pics. Notice how the bridge is max'd out in it's lowest position.
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