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sbpark

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Everything posted by sbpark

  1. The binding on my 2013 SG Standard is nowhere near flush on the bass side from frets 1 to about 4. Its like the router was set too deep or someone got too excited when routing my neck for the binding. It's not even subtle and very obvious and easily felt, but when I'm playing the guitar i don't even notice it. I'd say if it took you some time to spot this flaw (which in all honesty it is) I wouldn't sweat it. It's not like it affects the sound and/or all of a sudden the guitar is worthless now. With that said, sure, it can be disappointing, but I wouldn't sweat it. At least it's not in a spot like the first position, as in my guitar where it's always felt.
  2. Hit it with some contact cleaner and seems like all is well now with the universe. This is an awesome guitar!
  3. I just picked up a 2008 SG Classic (P90's). Killer guitar, and sounds fantastic. Only problem is the middle pickup position is very scratchy. Lots of static when playing in the middle position, but no issues when playing either the neck or bridge pickup alone. The problem is just there in the middle position. Cold solder joint perhaps? The guitar appears to be 100% stock. Here's a pic of the wiring inside and a shot of the new (to me) guitar:
  4. Wow, well seriously I appreciate the genuine response. I did end up going with Fralins. A Stock bridge and a -15% under wound neck, with blakc plastic covers. Regardless of the debate of whether or not the metal covers change anything sound wise, I also took into consideration what you just mentioned, that I can put the stock pickups back in if i ever decided to part with the guitar for whatever reason and keep the Fralins. From what I read and heard listening to the Lollars, they sound good, but not really classic P90's. I would dare to say that Fralins also aren't really 'traditional' P90s since he uses A4 magnets, and as far as I know, the old ones used A2 magnets. Regardless, anything is better than the stockers and Lindy and Chuck were super nice to talk to. And their guarantee is second to none.
  5. Dude, you know what I meant. I had to send in the stock pickups to get rewound, and they'd re-use the covers. Seems like every other dimwit knew what I was talking about. Apparently you're a few neurons short of putting those pieces together. and here's a little education for the next time someone comes here for some information about this topic, because you apparently don't have a clue. Real classy buddy. SO basically you stooped to my level. You send back the stock pickups to have them rewound and use the stock covers. The imported Casinos are problematic because the neck pickup is a different size than a standard P90, with slightly narrower string spacing. So if you want to keep the stock look (meaning the metal covers) you have to send in the stock pickups to be rewound (see how I said stock pickups, because you obviously weren't sharp enough to understand what I was saying previously, or you were just stretching to try and find fault in what I wrote). Nobody makes a metal aftermarket cover EXCEPT for Kent Armstrong, and those are Korean made, which is fine, but for only a few $ more than the imports you can have Fralin or Lollar rewind the stock pickups and use the stock covers. Otherwise you have to go with plastic covers. And FWIW, again, if you knew anything about what you were talking about (which you apparently don't) you'd know that they don't make covers for these guitars in $h!t brown. Only black and cream, but again, since you don't seem to know much about what you're talking about, I wouldn't expect you to know that, either! Good luck!
  6. Rct was the one who decided to spout off and apparently didn't even read my original post. Either way I was going to be buying new pickups, so regardless of what three totally unrelated, and well-respected pickup makers told me about re-using the original metal covers and having them rewound or buying new pickups with plastic covers, none of them were blowing smoke just to sell me something, The stock pickups are way overwound for my liking. His reply was very sarcastic and elitist and came across like he just wanted to mouth off and puff up his chest instead of actually addressing the original post. Either way, I was looking for a consensus on the cover color, not whether or not he agrees or not whether or not the metal covers make a difference in sound compared to plastic. Either way, I learned my lesson. Most people on here don't read the posts and just spout off without actually considering the original post. No worries. Lesson learned. The sad thing is some who think they know it all ruin it and turn the forum into a joke. I've noticed this is more the case in the Epiphone section compared to the Gibson section. People on the Gibson section seem to be more respectful and actually know what they are talking about. Over here in the Epiphone sections there are some really nice people, but also reading through older threads on various subjects people are less respectful toward others, seem to give unsupported info. More of an amateur hour! Guess I learned my lesson and Ill stick to asking questions elsewhere. You guys can keep your forum!
  7. Thanks, but I really don't need your free 'advice'.
  8. Yeah, I guess your right. I guess three independent, HIGHLY regarded and respected pickup makers have no clue what their talking about. I should just listen to you, someone I've never met, who probably knows nothing about making pickups, etc. Why do all this internet research when I could have just taken your uneducated, unsupported advice! What was I thinking! And FWIW, I'm buying pickups one way or the other, regardless if ended up using the stock covers or plastic. But hey man, apparently you're the expert, right?
  9. After doing a lot of reading, watching videos and talking to three pickup makers I decided to ditch the idea of rewinding the stock pickups just t keep the metal covers. Pretty much every maker said the metal covers look great, but it's at the sacrifice of some tone, killing some of the highs and transparency of the pickup. They'd obviously have to be wax potted to help reduce feedback, which isn't a big deal. Two of the pickup makers said they'd gladly do it though, and it wouldn't be difficult at all. A third maker said he really didn't want to because de-soldering the old metal covers off of the existing stock pickups proved to be very difficult. Given all of that, I decided to just go with black plastic covers. Funny, because it was the least popular choice, but after thinking about it, I did not want it to look like a gold top les paul kind of theme, and the black covers kind of gives it a really old vibe, the way the black P90's looked in old ES-225's, etc. Before I ordered the pickups I just did a very quick and crude mock up using some rubber matting and the circles fished out of a paper hole puncher! I have to say, I kind of like the look! I ended up going with a Fralin set, with a standard bridge and a -15% wind on the neck.
  10. First, I'll disclose that this is for an Epiphone Casino, and have posted in the proper Epiphone section of the forum, but it doesn't seem like that area of the forum get's much traffic. I was hesitant to replace the stock pickups, however this guitar has blown me away at how good if feels and plays after a single set up and addressing the nut. It's for sure a keeper, and plays super fast and smooth. I'm still shocked at how nice it is. The only thing that's disappointing are the way too hot stock pickups, so I've decided to get them rewound, I just can't decide between Fralin and Lollar. I've read through as many threads I can find on the internet and also watched many clips, but still can't decide. I play in an Americana/alt-country band, mostly through a 1972 Princeton Reverb, and occasionally through a Fender BMRI LTD, and also love playing old school country. Lately I've been using an EHX Soul Food or Fulltone FullDrive FD-2 Mosfet for drive along with an MXR Micro Amp. I'm hoping to get more of an 'old school, vintage, round Casino sound, but also want it to grind and adds a little bit of grit when pushed. I'm not looking for a super, crystal clear clean sound, but also not looking for a typical hard rock sound either. I know it's tough to describe, but just want it to sound like a traditional P90, if that even makes any sense! I currently also play a 2006 Fender '52 reissue Tele with Nocasters and a 2013 SG Standard (the 60's spec'd version) with '57 Classics. Kind of hoping that whatever I put in the Casino will sort of fit in between those two guitars tone/grind wise. I think with those three guitars, and the right set of pickups in the Casino I get get a great variety of sounds. So given what I've described and what I'm hoping to achieve, and the gear I'm using, what do you guys think would fit the bill the best? A standard set of Fralin's that have a -10% under wound neck, a standard set of Lollar's, or the Lollars with the 50's spec'd wind? Those are the three choices I'm narrowed it down to. With whoever I decide on I'll have them wound into the stock chrome covers because I really like the look of the guitar with those covers. I've been trying to decide for a little while now and just can't seem to pull the trigger on one set or the other. The Casino is the first guitar I've had with P90's, and is my first hollow body, so I'm pretty green with these guitars and pickups. Just wanted something totally different from the SG and Tele (I also have a MIJ Strat and Melody Maker, but don't use those much these days.) All advice and recommendations are greatly appreciated, and thanks to all in advance for taking the time to reply!
  11. Decided to get new pickups for my Casino. Just can't decide what color covers to get. Do I send the original chrome covers to get re-wound, or do I go with creme or black covers?
  12. Yep, Fralin was about 4 weeks, Lollar about 2 weeks for a rewind. I actually end up going with a Fralin set. Standard bridge and -10% neck. It's the 'short neck' version, so it will seamlessly drop into the Casino. Only reason to get the stockers rewound would be to keep the chrome covers. I'm cool with black covers, and if I ever sold the guitar down the road I could put the stockers back in and keep the Fralins. Once I get the pickups I'll drop them in and a new 50's style wiring harness and will be out of commission for a day, not weeks.
  13. Yes, I really need to replace the pickups. They sound way too hot. With some dirt on them you lose a lot of clarity and not separation. I get more definition from my '57 Classics in my SG Standard. The super hot pickups just mud up too much and you lose the hollow body sound . Trust me< i don't want to put new pickups in the guitar, I just don't think the stock pickups work for the style of music I play, which is old school country, americana, alt-country type stuff. Thats funny, because I spoke to Lollar 2 days ago and said they'd rewind my Casino pickups for me. Guess I'll be sending them to Lindy Fralin then!
  14. I want something more old school/vintage sounding. The stock pickups are just way to hot for my liking.
  15. Looking to replace the stock pickups with something less hot and more 'authentic' or old school sounding. So far the only ones I know of that will drop in with no mods are the Kent Armstrong P90 set. Still a tad hot at 8.2k, but still better than stock and the price is right (about $106 for the pair. Made overseas yes, but guessing they are am improvement over the stockers!) Are there any other pickups out there that are a direct drop in? I guess the bridge pickup isn't much of a problem and it's the neck pickup that has different dimensions and causes problems fitting aftermarket pickups? Any experience with Fralins or Lollars? Any advice from others that have replaced the pickups in their Casinos would be greatly appreciated! Mine is a new, 2014 limited run that was for GC/Musician's Friend in the metallic gold, made in China. Thanks in advance!
  16. I'm going to replace the wiring harness for my Casino. was wondering what others have used? Looking for something pre-wired, thats good quality. I found this harness through Mojotone. It's pricey, but nice components: http://www.mojotone.com/guitar-parts/ES-335-Wiring-Kits/Pre-Wired-ES-335-Style-PREMIUM-Wiring-Kit#.VNL7x74-ATN Anyone have any other recommendations? Thanks!
  17. Is it an Epiphone 'thing' among people who own many of them to not remove the plastic film and stickers from the pickguards? I've seen more than a few members on here who apparently leave these things on their guitars and have no idea why! It's like buying a new car and leaving the factory sticker on the window of your new car for years after you buy it! Very nice guitars, I just think it's a bit cheesy to leave those stickers on. I guess if you're a 'collector' and never plan on playing the guitars and just want to look at them and have them retain some sort of value, but if you play them, remove that stuff!
  18. sbpark

    Capo?

    Definitely are nice to have! I'd recommend a Planet waves or Shubb brand capo. You can adjust the tension on them, unlike a Kyser. The Kyser puts a lot of tension on the strings that can easily make them go sharp, forcing you to re-tune. With the Planet Waves or Shub you can dial in just enough tension to work, without going sharp. Makes for quicker on and off in between playing.
  19. Haha. Definitely not my grip strength. When I took it to get set up the tech started laughing at how high the nut was cut. I really wish I had before and after pictures. It's was a major difference and major improvement. Playing an 'F' chord in first position was a chore, and seriously every fretted note sounded pretty bad. Now that he folded down the nut and slots it plays like butter.
  20. I personally wouldn't make my decision based on price and what's on the headstock. Play all the guitars that fit within your proposed budget. To be honest, a "mid-range" epiphone still isn't going to be similar in cost to any "low-end" Gibson. I am pretty much a Fender guy, owning 3 fenders, but also have 2 Gibsons and now 1 Epiphone. All my guitars range in price and "perceived" quality. I say perceived, because just because a guitar has a certain name on the headstock doesn't means it's automatically a winner, or a good example of that brand. My "cheap" Gibson Melody Maker probably gets more play time than my '13 Gibson SG Standard, but my Epi Casino is probably my second favorite guitar next to my Fender 52AVRI. These days I don't base how good an instrument is based on what it says on the headstock. It's based more on whether or mot it meets my needs and feels good playing it. Now, with all that said, there can sometimes be valid reasons why some guitars cost more. Perceived (I used that word again!) quality of "tone woods" (whatever that means) and quality of components, country of origin and demand in the market. Some people, like myself buy a guitar and keep it stock for the most part. Unless theres something glaring wrong and it's an easy fix, I don't go messing with stuff like changing out pickups, etc. Well, I will play the guitar for a long time and if I decide to change them down the line I might. ( I recently switched out the Fender OV pickups in my Tele with Nocasters just to try something different after owning the guitar for 3 years, and replaced a intermittent/crackling switch that was going bad) But I never understood why guys will buy a guitar, and then once they get it home guy it, swap out the pickups, pots, tuners, wiring harness, bridge, etc. If you're going to do all that, why don't you just take that money you spent on parts and instead buy the guitar you really wanted in the first place. Seems like so many guys have a bunch of money sunk into their Epiphones in upgrades, that they could have actually bought a nice Gibson! Plus, all those upgrades doesn't equal a higher resale value, and sometime can lower the value if it's not original. Others are straight forward cork-sniffers, and think if it doesn't say a certain name on the headstock, then it's inferior. So I say instead of basing your decision on which mid level, low end, etc. guitar to buy, instead figure out a budget first of all. Then figure out what sound your looking for and then start searching out models that seem to fit that sound. Next, read as much as you can about them, but most importantly, go and play as many of them as you can in your budget range. Also try some similar guitar in a higher price range. You might find that those more expensive guitars don't seem that different, or different enough to warrant the higher price tag, or you may be blown away an something about it just speaks to you, and you'll save up more to have that guitar. I just think basing which guitar you're going to get on what the headstock says will leave you unhappy and disappointed in the along run. And on the flip side, if the headstock absolutely has to say a certain name on it for whatever reason that is to you, that/s also important and don't sell yourself short for anything else. Keep in mind, even higher end, more expensive guitars usually need, or will at least greatly benefit from a good set up. I am new to Epiphones, but in my quest for my Casino I played several, and noticed the set ups were all over the place. All were at different Guitar Center locations, so there are many variables that can cause this. Uneducated staff who just unpack a guitar that's been shipped across the world in a container and through various climate changes, etc., without even doing a basic setup. Don't be shy about asking the repair guy (if the shop has one) to change the action for you, add/take away some relief on the neck, etc. If you're going to plunk down your hard-earned cash you want to know if the guitar will be able to be set up to your specs. What I have found consistent with the Casinos I looked at was the inconsistently cut nuts and frets that needed some attention. Again, an easy, but somewhat annoying fix, and feel like if a little more attention was paid to it at the factory, the guitar would have been more playable and stayed in tune and probably would sell more as a result. So expect to spend an additional $60-$80-$100 on a pro set up on pretty much ANY new guitar, regardless of manufacturer. It can turn an ok guitar (like a lot of Epiphones off the rack) into an incredible guitar that will play as good, or better than most Gibsons out there.
  21. to sharp is when it's VERY obvious and you can easily hear it when playing open chords in the first position.
  22. if the nut is cut so high that fretting chords causes the notes to be sharp, than the nut is cut INCORRECTLY. No matter of personal preference there, unless your presence is to have a poorly cut nut!
  23. The nut on my Casino was cut horribly. Slots were ridiculously high, making it almost unplayable and open chords sounded horrible and were pulling sharp because of the horribly cut but. The thing that cracked me up were the "inspected by" stickers and statements that the guitar was factory set up. I understand that things can go out of whack from the time the guitar leaves the factory and is shipped across the world in a container, but this was something totally different.
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