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sbpark

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Everything posted by sbpark

  1. If you like how it sounds and plays in your hands, then it's a good one. What sounds good to you might be garbage to someone else, and vice versa.
  2. As long as the frets are in good shape and level, adding in less relief will actually put a little more tension on the strings/make them a little more taught, so when you hit a string it will be traveling less than when the neck had more relief/the strings were "floppier". Also, your playing style has something to do with it. And most electric guitars will have some fret buzz audible when played unplugged, as long as you're not hearing fret buzz through the amp your alright. You must have a pretty light touch to be playing a shorter scale electric guitar with 9's. I just had my '12 SG Standard setup with D'Addario EXL10's. Just a hint of relief int he neck, new bone nut made and the action is just a hair over 4.5/64" on the low E and 3/63" on the high E. Plays like a dream.Get a little fret buzz heard now and then played unplugged, but I do have a heavy right hand sometimes, but no string buzz heard through the amp. People should keep in mind that your playing style also has to be favored in to how the guitar is set up. Some guys who are ham-fisted and really hit their guitar hard when playing will need higher action, especially if they're going for a minimal relief as possible.
  3. Funny, as the OP of this thread I pretty much never visit this part of the forum anymore, and usually stick to the Acoustic section. I picked up this SG from the shop today after getting it setup and having a bone nut made. A little while ago I also replaced the 490R & T pickups with some SD Seth Lovers and replaced the PCB board with a StewMac Golden Age harness, and shorty after scored an old Gibson "chainsaw" case for $25. Regardless of how the tailpiece height, blah, blah, blah, the guitar is incredible now. Really couldn't ask for anything more. especially since I got the guitar for like $600, and ended up selling the original pickups and PCB board and crappy case it came in. When I was there dropping off the guitar there was a guy right behind me dropping off a '67 or '68 SG that needed the nut replaced. Was interesting to see old and new side by side.
  4. I guess they're making any combination of woods and calling it an "AJ" now? Maple back and sides? Drop in saddle? Sounds like a different model to me, but then again, look at all the incarnations of J45's that seem so far off the original spec/woods but they still call them J45's! I guess Gibson can call whatever they want whatever they want!
  5. I'm also too boring for this thread. I used D-Addario PB's for the Martins and 80/20's for the Gibsons. I've done the "try every string imaginable" thing a while ago and determined that D'Addario's just get the job done, sound great, are affordable and can be found pretty much anywhere.
  6. My guess is only Gibson knows the answer to this. With the J45, the "Custom" designation usually refers to the rosewood back and sides version that also has a bit more "bling" as far as inlays, etc. With the AJ I have no idea. Gibson is notorious for changing names or designations year to year for no apparent reason, just because. Does your AJ have East Indian or Madagascar rosewood back and sides? I know some of the AJ's labelled "Custom" use Madagascar over the normally used East Indian rosewood.
  7. My 2012 AJ sounds great, stock plastic pins and all, so I have zero need or desire to change them. If I lost a pin, one broke, got mangled, etc., then I'd replace them with either the same exact plastic pins, or a bone set from Bob Colosi PURELY for aesthetics. I also have a 2017 J45 Standard I replaced the stock Tusq pins on. I just hated the way they looked. The tops were flat and squished looking, overall the pins looked small, and they just bothered me as far as looks, so I replaced them with a set of bone pins from Bob Colosi. Again, this was ONLY for cosmetics/aesthetics. All my other guitars (D-35, CS 00-18, and a 1975 D-28) all still have their original plastic pins (including the '75 D-28). Personally, I think you'd get more bang for your buck experimenting with different strings and the most overlooked, cheap thing to experiment with that affects the sound of your guitar...picks! Picks are one of the easiest and cheapest ways to get different (and very noticeable) sounds from your guitar. In comparison, bridge pins are a bit more expensive, and the change in tone/sound is negligible/debateable/non-existant in a lot of cases. My take on drive pins and affecting "tone" us whether or not you can hear a difference is directly related to how much you spend on replacement pins. The more you spend, the more of a difference you'll most likely hear.
  8. I've owned a couple of the WL-14's and played pretty much the entire line. They're great guitars but never really did it for me. Recently came across this Custom Shop Martin 00-18 that I've been really happy with.
  9. I removed the LR Baggs UST in my J45 Standard and replaced it with a K&K and run it into a Radial PZ Pre and it sounds so much better than the Baggs UST.
  10. Unfortunately interactions like this just come with the territory. I usually have a tolerance of one back and forth with someone, and if they seem to be playing this exact game that Sal is experiencing I just ignore them. Like Sal mentioned, many of us have some nice instruments, so haggling over $3-$7 dollars is just ridiculous and can be insulting. Whenever I do a purge like that just to get rid of some odds and ends just to clear out the clutter by selling a couple pedals, tuners, straps, etc., I just set a fair price and usually after a while someone will come along and take it. those who reply with lowball offers or are into the constant back and forth messages usually aren't serious and are just time wasters. For them it's more about the deal, and I dont really have the time and effort to engage with those people anymore. Sometimes I'll just take the stuff to a Goodwill or Salvation Army store simply because I have no desire to deal with these nut jobs.
  11. I have a 2012 AJ (rosewood back and sides) that's suffered a neck break by a previous owner and it has a pretty slim neck and I still put 80/20 mediums (13's) on it. Much prefer mediums on my AJ compared to lights. It's a monster with mediums! I save light gauge (12's) for my J45 and my 12-fret 00 Martin.
  12. I didn't fill the old holes with anything, just left them open. The original holes are covered by the current tuners and really don't see leaving them open/unplugged an issue.
  13. Sounds awesome! I'd be interested in hearing just the iRig pickup by itself as well.
  14. Although I'm not a fan of this and wouldn't do it to my own J45 (or any other guitar I own) and prefer to spend my time playing my guitars and complaining on Internet forums, I do respect the fact that it's his guitar to do whatever he wants to it. As far as reselling it for decent price, who said he's selling the guitar?! I think there are more people on Internet forums that are more concerned and put more effort into worrying about what the resale value of their guitars are more than they actually spend playing them. The way I see it is yes, IF he ends up selling it down the line eh will most likely take a hit on resale. However, if he enjoyed the guitar while he owned it and it brought him joy and pleasure and he made good music with I during that time, that may in itself be worth the hit he takes. Also, by sort of personalizing the guitar and making into what he thinks is closer to his ideal guitar, he may be less inclined to sell it and it may become a keeper. Also, some people get joy and pleasure out of tinkering and modding as much or sometimes more than playing, and resale value is of little importance to them, and it's more about the experience. There's more to owning guitars than their prospected resale value down the line, but if resale value is one of your major concerns, who am I to judge? As you yourself did say, "it's his to let him do as he wishes", and I extend the same sentiment to you regarding focusing more on resale value than other aspects of guitar ownership.
  15. Sal- I've had the Klusons #-on-a-plate tuners on my J45 now for almost 2 months and they work great and have no complaints at all. They're smooth, and work as they should. I also just like the look of the buttons on the Klusons the best. They aren't stark white, They're kind of opaque, and have edges that are a little softer than others out there. I ordered an extra set just in case they do become a little harder to find in the future and/or if I acquire another Gibson acoustic that I'd like to put them on. The other added bonus is the guitar is ridiculously light now after the tuner swap and replacing the Baggs UST with a K&K. Clocks in at exactly 4lbs. The only down side I see to the three on a plate tuners is if one gets damaged or develops issues you have to replace the entire side and would have to buy an entire new set. With the individual tuners you would most likely still have to buy an entire set, but you only have to replace the one faulty tuner and can hang onto the rest as spares if any of the other tuners break or fail down the line.
  16. Let's see those new tuners as well and how the headstock came out after getting rid of the Rotomatics.
  17. I think it sounds more like opening the oven to check on an apple pie that's baking.
  18. This type of finish does have the potential to look pretty nice, very similar to the way the finish is on the J45 Vintage model. I think it would look better though if the OP spent a little more time getting out more of the scratches from sanding before applying the wax. To my eye it kind of looks like you took a Scotch-Bite pad to the guitar then just waxed over the scratches. Wonder if you could have obtained a finer finish with some super fine wet sanding or super fine steel wool, then lightly hand-buffed it just to get out this scratches, then applied the wax. Also would help to better see the guitar if you posted some pics taking better pictures, like more "head-on" pictures looking directly at the front and back of the guitar instead of these vague, off-angle shots that make it difficult to really see what you did with the finish.
  19. So you don't want an Adirondack top, but you want everything else the Vintage model has, but only want to pay for it what a Standard model costs. We all would, but keep dreaming! Again, it makes no sense from a marketing standpoint for Gibson to do that with what they have going for them with the Vintage and Standard J45 models (but then again, making changes that make no sense from a marketing standpoint has never stopped Gibson in the past...am I right?!) Plenty of expensive guitars use and have used plastic bridge pins. Martin was using plastic in the 50's, and I think Gibson was as well. My D-35 has plastic bridge pins, and my 1975 D-28 still has the original plastic pins. Just spend a couple hundred bucks and turn a Standard into the guitar you're describing. You can easily, and for relatively little money do everything you've mentioned (except for the string spacing). I did just that with my J45 Standard. 3-on-a-plate tuners, bone nut and saddle, bone pins, V/TV pickguard and ditched the Baggs UST for a K&K. Heck, you've mentioned that you live to modify your guitars, evidenced by putting in a bit of work to dull their finishes, so souping up your J45 to exactly what you want should be super easy to do. Yes you've already made the guitar yours with the finish. So why not go the extra mile and finish the job? Honestly, it's not that much work, and you're still in it for a ton less than a Vintage model. Sell the Baggs pickup and Rotomatics and you can cover a large chunk of the cost of the K&K. All I know is after making the changes I made to my 2017 J45 Standard that I bought new in 2016 for a bit under $2k I still would take it over any of the other J45's I've owned, including TV and V models.
  20. That hog J45 sounds really, really nice!
  21. Gibson already makes this J45. It's called the Vintage model. You gotta pay to play. If Gibson made these changes to the Standard the only big difference between the Vintage and Standard models would be the torrified top, and that doesn't really make good marketing sense for Gibson, does it? Seems like the Vintage model is a hit and they sell those, (and for a nice profit I'm sure), and for the rest of us who don't want to shell out for, or just can't afford the Vintage model, there's the Standard. I also disagree that "most" people swap out the Rotomatics. Many voice their dislike for the Rotomatics, but few here on this forum have actually done it, and more talk about wanting to, but outside of this tiny forum and in the rest of guitar land, I'd say more people have left the stock Rotomatics on the guitar. I'm not saying it's not done, but it's probably not done as much as you think. Gibson adding a K&K wouldn't make sense either. Why would they superglue a pickup to the bridge plate at the factory? This could lead to decreased sales since not everyone is a fan of, or has an application that the K&K would be practical for and would be very expensive and labor intensive to remove. At least with the LR Baggs UST it's ridiculously easy to remove, and can also easy be put back in to return the guitar to stock. As far as the string spacing goes, I haven't heard that many complain about the current string spacing, but that's a personal preference. I've owned J45 Standards, J45 True Vintages and a J45 Vintage. I could swear the string spacing at the bridge was the same on all of them, but don't quote me on that, but they all felt just fine to me for fingerpicking and cross picking. The thing about threads like this is the person starting the thread is just thinking about what THEY would like, without taking into consideration the perspective of the company. I get it. Sure, these changes would be nice for the Standard model, but if this configuration already exists in a more expensive package and it's selling (Vintage model) and they're also selling a differently appointed version for less that is still a great guitar (Standard) why would they change the less expensive version into something that's basically what the more expensive version is, then sell it for less?! There is also the "Gibson Custom Shop Made 2 Measure" program that could make you whatever you wanted.
  22. I hear you on the gold tuners. The fact that the dealer wouldn't budge off of MSRP and the gold is what made me not pull the trigger, but the one I played really was wonderful.
  23. What tuners are you swapping out? I just took a screen shot of this off the StewMac site: Maybe you need these, but seems a little strange if your guitar has Rotomatics. They're a little larger diameter. https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Tuning_Machines/Tuner_Parts/10_5mm_Round_Conversion_Bushings.html
  24. Wrong in what way? Too big? Too small? The bushings that come with the tuners won't fit. They'll slop around because of the holes left by the Rotomatics. That's why you have to buy the conversion bushings separately. What tuners are on your guitar now? Something different than Rotomatics perhaps that require a different size conversion bushing? The bushings I purchased were definitely the 3/8" conversion bushings from StewMac (just checked my order history) and they fit my guitar (2017 J45 Standard). They just required a small bit of reaming to press-fit them in, which is how they are designed to work. They aren't supposed to just drop right in or be loose because that can cause rattles. They're supposed to be press-fit. Here's the StewMac link: https://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Tuning_Machines/Tuner_Parts/3_8_Conversion_Tuner_Bushing.html
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