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Fidalgo

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About Fidalgo

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    into the west
  • Interests
    Family, Cycling, Guitars, Skiing, Soccer

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  1. You will want to stay away from the Historic Thick V and the Luthier's Choice profiles as they are full carve necks. The Slim Taper , like the J15 spec, is very thin. The Medium C is also not very full. The Round profile can be thick or average. It seems to be a little less consistent. The Round profile on the J35 Reissue doesn't seem very thick, but the Round neck on J35 Vintage Collector's Edition is a true handful.
  2. I have tried Shubb, Paige, Victor, Kaiser, and a few others over the years. I got an Elliott McKinney with a used guitar I bought a few years ago, and everything else went in a drawer or was given away. I have no idea what the radius of the bar is, but it works great on every guitar I have used it on. My wife has used Shubbs for years on her 6 string and 12 string and has had zero issues. I wanted to buy her an Elliott for Christmas last year, and she said it'd be a waste of money, because the Shubbs work just fine.
  3. I'd buy a '34-37 D18 and 30's J35 and a Banner J45 as well as a restored mid 50's Willys pickup truck and new Bianchi Specialissma. Then I'd quit my teaching job, play guitar and cycle all summer and ski and play guitar all winter.
  4. Fidalgo

    Music Room

    Outstanding! I'd enjoy spending an afternoon in that room.
  5. A D18 has been my benchmark from the first time I heard Norman Blake's Whiskey Before Breakfast record over 30 years ago. I currently have a Collings D1T, Gibson J35 Fuller's, and a Blueridge BR240A. Tonally, ergonomically, and aesthetically, he D1T is the best D18 style guitar I have owned with a SCGC D'03 coming a close second. (I have owned eleven Martins and nine were D18 variations.) I like the D1T so much that I rarely play the J35 any more. I have actually been considering selling the it and buying a Collings CJ35. As far as Martin goes, unless I run into a good price on 1999-2000 HD28LSV, I doubt I'll ever own another Martin guitar. The new MLO neck profiles are a deal breaker for me.
  6. If it's the original finish, just taken down to satin, buffing it back to gloss should not be too much of a problem for someone who is skilled. Sending it back to Martin, to be buffed or re-finished, is an option, but it will be costly and could take 6 months. What other skilled luthier could you find to fix it in the Northeast? I think the better option is to tell your "repair" guy that he just bought the guitar. What's it worth, $2400-2600? Total nightmare! I am sorry you are dealing with this.
  7. Beautiful guitar! I much prefer the 70's bridge. It fits the Dove aesthetic.
  8. That's a cool guitar. I like honest play wear. Enjoy!
  9. If a haunting is the marker for a perfect guitar, then I have a third. It was a '47 D18, beat up and well-played. I found it at Spruce Tree music in Madison, WI back in '96. It was $2000 and needed a neck reset. It sounded fantastic and looked beautiful but played hard. I was just out of grad school, and my wife and I were in the process of moving to Colorado. I just didn't have the scratch for that itch at the time. That guitar haunts me too.
  10. I like the Ultimate GS100 stand. I have a few around the house, and a couple of them are almost 20 years old. The cost $30, and I have never have an issue with them.
  11. I know the perfect guitar exists. I have played a them. I worked part-time in an acoustic shop for half a dozen years. We had a lot of vintage stuff come through. There was a '36 D18 and a '37 AJ that were both other worldly... perfect. I have to say that I am haunted by both of those guitars. As far as modern guitars go, I couldn't be happier with my J35 Fuller's and Collings D1T. It took me years to find both of them. They are not the '36 D18 or '37 AJ, but they are perfect for me.
  12. My Fuller's J35 reissue is my favorite Gibson and my only Gibson. I am hoping to eventually add a Fuller's AJ as well.
  13. So that's David Dugas! I have been reading his posts and posts about him since way back in the flatpick-l listserv days. Thanks for pointing that out, Nick.
  14. Congratulations, F4r. I am sure that any Gibson dealer can order a labeled Gibson case for you. If you buy a generic Jumbo case, they're not all the same dimensions. Most are 17" at the lower bout. I think the J185 has a 16" lower bout (versus the J200 at 17"). My J35 lives in a Hiscox Pro II . It's a true flight case. Dimensionally, I think you'd want the dreadnought/folk style size, but you'd need to confirm that. Musician's Friend sells Hiscox and offers free shipping on cases. They often put out coupon codes for 20% off. Post some pictures of that '56.
  15. Apparently my reading comprehension was lacking when I replied to this thread; the OP asked about radius not about string spacing. Sorry. I don't have a problem with radius on a guitar neck. I didn't even notice that my older Larrivee had a very large radius and subsequent flat board until a friend pointed it out. I have a Collings, Gibson, and Blueridge and couldn't tell you what each radius is. I doubt they're all the same. On a mandolin, it's a different story. I don't like flat boards on a mandolin. I feel like my fingers are in ditch. I need a radiused board there.
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