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macoshark

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About macoshark

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  1. Hi,I got a Epi HSC with a guitar I bought. I have no idea which Epi guitar it was intended for and can't seem to find anything current that fits the inside dimensions. Hoping someone here might have a clue. The I.D.s are 43" long, Upper bout-11.5", lower bout- 15.5" and 5.5" deep not counting the lid. The case has Epiphone written out in gold letters and has a black leather looking exterior. It's just too deep for my semihollow. thanks
  2. 400 seems to be the going asking price on craigs here. My 2001 sherri is a Peerless and I really like the way she sounds and plays. Sherris seem to hold there value used, so why buy new?
  3. Gnappi- So now you need a "Peerless" Joe Pass and your collection would be Korean complete.
  4. I don't have any experience replacing the nut. I haven't looked here concerning that but did see a nice sticky on the MY Les Paul forum under "other epiphones" by Brians Evil Twin. It's included in his Fretboard set-up.
  5. Natty- there are deals buying online. Obviously people buy all the time online while others prefer to play guitars before purchasing. My local Craigs has Sheratons, Dots, Casinos. I use Ebay to see how much guitars are selling for with the sold button. Buying guitars off ebay or other sites requires guitar knowledge also. It's all really up to you as the buyer. Were all giving you info based on our experience. Thomse does well at it. The one guitar I bought off e-bay is good but I should of done a little more homework first. If I could have waited I saw better deals on Craigs within a hour drive from my house. If you know exactly which model you want and have tried a similar guitar to sample PUP sound, action, etc. then, to me,that would be best bet your getting close to what you want when you buy online. Again, to me, playing the guitar in person leaves little doubt what your buying. However, buying online can get you a nice guitar also, but since your not playing it beforehand get good pics and understand what your bidding on.
  6. This isn't a bad question and there is some good feedback to your question. I've read a lot of the posts here and gone on the search option trying to get info on certain epi guitars. From what I've "read", the USA Built Epis and the Terada FugiGen built Epis are highly valued and cost more. On the other hand there are many good Epis out there,new and old. Because Epiphone has a history of using different foreign guitar makers they each had a learning curve in craftsmanship.Therefore, pinning down specific factories and years is a generality, it helps but just a guideline. Apparently,your better off judging each individual model based on its qualities rather than assuming quality based on a specific year or manufacturer. Here's the other thing. Judging a guitar is based on your knowledge. I'm sure some here are able to evaluate a used guitar's obvious problems after a few minutes because they have had many guitars or dealt with common guitar problems before. In my opinion you would be able to make a better decision, on your next guitar, by making yourself more knowledgeable about what makes one guitar better than another, the basic things to look for, what it would cost to fix, when to walk away. Asking questions here is a lot better than doing it all on your own.
  7. Richard- I don't own a Casino but I know some of your questions would be answered On the Unoffical Wiki here on Epi electrics. Go on archtops then to casino and you'll get specs and pictures of the different years and models of Casinos, It's very informative. If your interested you might try a search on Epi electric forum on Casino
  8. Probably best to send a pic of label and guitar. I looked at wiki and your numbers didnt quite click. Japanaese made epis on the early models tend to go by labels to pin down years. starting with blue and ending with orange. Your 2nd and third numbers typically refer to month so that doesn't fit with your serial number. The pics you send would really help, since there were models being made in both Korea and Japan in starting around 83". I know for refurbished there should have been a sticker serial number that is always the same(wiki) and it starts with a number 3. I believe both Japan and Korea had short periods where there was no factory letter code at the beginning of the serial number. there are some pretty sharp guys here that have info but the pics would be the way to go. Inside label and Headstock tell a lot sometimes.
  9. I see there's a JDM "1966 RI Riviera elitist on ebay. around $2400. I was surprised to see no elitist logos on headstock or TRC. Then I checked UN wiki and there were none in that pic :blink:
  10. Good job Brian- the strings on the nut groove look really nice,hope my Ibanez comes out as good. You don't mention the snowblower much anymore so thinking your preety happy all the way around
  11. Vomers right- 01 Samick..around $500. give or take $50. That could be a lifetime guitar.
  12. I've seen a couple of rivieras on Craigs with the frequensator. Does anyone know ow the 2 differ in sound or playability.They would both be Korean Peerless,thanks.
  13. Sounds like the deal might work for you.After you get pictures you can give us more details. See if you are able to get a serial number from the guy,should be on the label inside the body of the guitar and/or on the back of the headstock. That way you'll be able to find out year and country of manufacture. If it turns out there's and "Elite" on the truss rod cover go ahead and get it, let me know immediatly, and I'll take it off your hands. Just kidding on that one 66
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