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About DRC

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    Madison, AL
  1. Very nice! Very soothing vocal and excellent guitar work. I'm no longer a Gibson guy (sold the J-35) but I check back here on occasion and always enjoy your musicianship. DC
  2. When all else fails, take it to a good tech. DC
  3. It seems we went through this before with another forum member and it turned out to be the endpin jack. However, rattles we hear in one area can be the result of something elsewhere. Loose tuners, loose pickup wiring vibrating against the top, a bad string, truss rod/nut, loose bracing, 'back-buzz' (which will drive you nuts), etc. Locating rattles/buzzing can often be like locating a vehicle electrical problem and requires taking it step-by-step, ruling out possible culprits one-by-one. Good luck in locating the problem and getting it taken care of. I hope it's a simple fix. DC
  4. Over the years regarding tuning, I've discovered I have to learn each guitar's quirks and personality in order to optimize tuning. No guitar is the same and as a result I have to tune each one just a bit differently but nearly always very slightly detune the high E & B a couple cents. And it's even more critical for me since I play in DADGAD and the high strings are tuned lower to begin with. On one guitar, I'll tune using octaves; on another I'll use both octaves and 5ths; on another I'll use harmonics to achieve the most accurate tuning for THAT guitar. I've not had any tuning issues wit
  5. Congrats! I'm still looking for that 'one' J-45 standard, but as you point out, they can vary quite a bit from guitar to guitar and I've yet to find a really good one locally. But I keep looking. Enjoy that new J-45! DC
  6. DRC

    Guitar Stinks

    First thing I suggest is to call the guy who applied the oil and see what he used...and what he suggests regarding the smell. Like others here, I've not had an odor issue with lemon oil. I've been a repair tech for many years, as well as a gunsmith working with exotic woods and various finishes, and I'm not a fan of using anything on a fretboard unless it's extremely dry, or for purely aesthetic reasons to darken a rosewood board, in which case I personally use Fret Doctor or Roche-Thomas Fingerboard Oil very sparingly. In your case, using naptha as suggested won't hurt anything and worth
  7. Your biggest limitation is the Bose L1. Second is the piezo pickup currently installed in the L-130. My suggestion would be to dump whatever UST pickup is currently in the L-130 and install a K&K. Get a good preamp with bass/mid/treble control (I use the K&K preamps), run it between the guitar and the Bose, and you should get a much better, more natural sound that you'll have some control over. Next, I'd upgrade from the Bose to something with more versatility. Good luck! DC
  8. Uhh....that's Paddy O'Furniture I'm Irish... DC
  9. And then there was Django Reinhardt. It's only over when it's over. We'll see. Bono/U2 fan or not, I wish him well and a quick recovery. DC
  10. I have a nice sound system hooked to my computer, and I don't think the audio has been processed to any great extent, if any. I'm a Collings fan, but from what I'm hearing, I think my Wechter 000 slot head 12 fret sounds a little better, especially the mids and high E string. DC
  11. Hmmmm... I don't get any 'ping', twang, or otherwise on my J-35, even tuned to DADGAD and with aggressive strumming. Very solid tone. I do, however, get a twang/ping sound on the high A (DADGAD) with my Guild F-130R until it's fretted at the 5th fret and above. Thankfully, none of my other guitars have this issue. I've tried various things on the F-130R... different saddles, pins, strings, etc, but nothing really helps. It's such an otherwise good sounding guitar I just work around it, but find myself playing my other guitars more...particularly the OM-16 and J-35. DC
  12. I have a great sound system attached to my computer and it sounds balanced with good low end to me....just as my guitars with K&Ks sound. Nice job, Mark and good vocals. DC
  13. Well, Ryan, you don't want a new bridge! I was referring to a new saddle that's placed in the bridge. The bridge itself is attached to the top, while the bridge plate is the piece of wood inside the guitar glued directly to the top under the bridge that protects the top from string ball end damage. The K&K transducers are attached to this wood plate and there needs to be enough space between the peg holes and front of the wood plate to properly accommodate the transducers. Ideally, the transducers should be equally positioned directly under the saddle slot. A good tech can quickly determin
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