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JP Belanger

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About JP Belanger

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  1. You cannot connect the SCS.1D straight to a mixer, because: - It doesn't have a built-in audio interface - It's a controller, it is made to send a signal to a software which will translate and make use of it - The only port it has is an IEEE-1394 Firewire port To make use of it, you must connect it to a desktop or laptop computer, working on Linux, Windows or MacOS. This computer must have a Firewire port available. See there are two Firewire ports on each of your SCS.1D's? That's because unlike USB, Firewire is daisy-chainable. Use one Firewire cable to connect the SCS.1Ds between each other, and take either one to connect to your computer. Once done, the computer has to have a DJ software installed. Not all DJ softwares are compatible with legacy Stanton stuff. That's why most of us use either VirtualDJ or Traktor. The piece of software will take care of producing the audio, and will be controlled by the SCS.1Ds and your computer keyboard/mouse/trackpad. Then, you'll need something to output the audio from your computer to your mixer. No, you don't need the NI Audio6/8 interface, you can use most modern audio interfaces. It could have USB, or Firewire, it doesn't matter. If it has Firewire, you can of course daisychain it to your SCS.1Ds. For ease of use, try to find an audio interface with two sets of RCA outputs, so you can then connect both sets to each channel of your mixer. Since you can control up to 4 decks with your SCS.1Ds, you can even get to 4 stereo outs, provided you have a 4 channel mixer. You don't HAVE to use an audio interface with RCA outs though. These are line levels, so you could use any audio interface with multiple TS outputs. You also could get a mixer with MIDI control, so you could mix "in-the-box" and stereo output the audio from your computer. You could also get a DJ mixer that has a built-in audio interface. Possibilities are pretty much endless. Hope that helped!
  2. I measured the LCD module "caddy": 4 x 1.5 x 1.2 cm. If someone would think about swapping the LCDs you must know this: the SCS.1D's faceplate is molded with a fit right the size of their "LCD caddies", the little pieces of plastic stuck in glue that hold the LCD module. So you can't pick up any size of LCDs. I don't know much about electronics, is there even a way to connect this ribbon cable to a 4-pin LCD module through a converter of some sort? Anyway, just to show you what I mean when I say it has to be "<" 4 x 1.5 x 1.2 cm. So if anyone knows about a custom LCD modules company... Top Row: case molded snug fit. You can even see the gap better on the picture right above, the casing with pcbs removed. Bottom Row: just enough space between cue and select pads. One could cut a little extra rubber on both sides for a little more real estate, but why would you just change the bottom row only anyway... We really need to find that "M" company who made the LCDs for Stanton. It's one of the only things that is not Stanton branded in this thing.
  3. Ok so I kept on tearing this apart. I removed the Firewire/power ports board first. It's pretty easy, just pull it off gently since it will get stuck in the power cable. Now if anybody knows if it's possible to bypass a Firewire chipset with a USB one....:P The chipset is a standard Oxford Communications 971, which is used by many companies who have and still make Firewire products for maximum OSX compatibility (thanks Google). Then, I unscrewed the top PCB. This one is trickier. Start by removing the 4 rubber top knobs. Unlock every connector with a small screwdriver and unplug every cable. Then THERE ARE TWO PUSH PINS AT THE TOP RIGHT that must be pushed to release the PCB once everything is unscrewed. Once pulled off, it looks like this: But wait, what is that? Are those....MIDI ports? They are just aside the Firewire ports. Could also be diag ports though, as those connectors are also used for that purpose. I once had a Numark CDX, and its coolest feature was almost a secret one: you could connect a MIDI controller via its MIDI input port, and precisely control the pitch. So you could play a very long horn note, scratch it and changing its pitch notes all in real time. DJ Dexter and Kid Koala's signature in a MIDI package. I wonder what I would get from trying to solder MIDI ports to those and listen to incoming MIDI signals in Bome's... Here is the other side of the top PCB board, with LCD strips and big top left LCD The strips Oh noes! More glue like on the bottom PCB! Won't take a chance this time and find a proper way to heat the glue to release the LCDs. The big LCD. It has the same push-pins as the smaller ones, but those solder points seems to make it unreleasable. Too bad for my dead blue LCD:( Update: The white piece under the big LCD is just an adhesive. I could lift the big LCD by unsticking it, but it makes the solder points bend too much I'm afraid to break one. So don't bother opening yours if you got this problem like me (dead big LCD color LED) , it's just not worth it. Once again, those damn solder points. And finally, the casing without PCB. You can see the motorized fader on the top left with its motor at its left, and also you can see my buttons will need a good cleanup:) Getting there takes about 40 minutes. Lots of screws, cables, connector locks, bending gently... But if you care just a little, it's an easy job, really. I won't get into pulling off the motor just for the sake of taking pictures, sorry about that, but I don't know enough about direct drive motors to risk ruining it forever.
  4. Okay here you go guys. I happen to have two SCS.1D, and only use one for scratching. Both have the LCD strips problem, so after waiting maybe a little too long, I decided today to tear one apart and see what's going on in there. I didn't take pictures of how to get to the LCD strips: you just have to unscrew every screw on the bottom, plus the two holding the Firewire and power ports. Then, you have to unscrew every screw that are on the board you want to fix (top or bottom). Be careful when removing those ribbon cables: there are two pins on each side of the connector. Pull them off and you'll be able to disconnect the cable without breaking or bending it. Then you'll get to see the LCD strips. WARNING: one side of the LCD is popping off easily from the PCB, the other side is STUCK IN GLUE. I managed to pull them off by bending gently the end tit finally pulled off, but BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL: while pulling off the last one that was stuck in glue, I accidently broke a solder point between the two LEDS connection point; will have to fix this. So how does it look on the inside? There it is. I disconnected a ribbon cable from the LCD module so you can see what's underneath. The cable has just an adhesive that connects it to the LCD strips, and I think this may be a major part of the problem. If not, and I don't know much about electronics and soldering, but I believe it could be possible to swap the LCD modules altogether, provided you find an LCD module that small. Anyone knows of that "M" company with the logo on the LCD module? Anyone has an idea? I think I'll bring it to my tech and he may be able to fix this. Stay tuned for more pictures as I will get to the top LCD strips, and maybe be able to fix my top blue LED for the round display that has not been working since I bought it! Oh yeah and if you want an LCD LED mod, I guess it's possible:) You can see the glue residue I haven't been able to pull off yet from these tiny pins. Sorry for the potato quality, my t3i with stock 18-55 lens ain't the best for macro photography!
  5. Hey, I'd like to know if there is a way to adjust the brake speed of the SCS.1D, either on the tt itself, in DaRouter or in VDJ8. Thanks
  6. A mod on Mixvibes forums answered this question: My link Sad as I would also like to use my SCS.1 system on this wonderful piece of software, but the more I use VDJ, the more I like their default mapping. I hate to be that guy that says "Try something else" but in this case it's not like we have many options. Now I only wish VDJ would drop skin support and just make a GUI that doesn't look like a freakin toy...
  7. So I use my 1D with VDJ no issue at all, but in Traktor everything works except the platter is not spinning. I use the .tsi file that comes with the "latest" darouter release. Any idea?
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