Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

wildkat1

All Access
  • Content Count

    55
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by wildkat1

  1. Thanks bobouz and Yorgle!! Very useful and informative!! This is the 1st time I've ever touched this Truss Rod and I'll never know if the previous owner had this problem and sold it to me in this state. It's quite playable as is but I'm going to try your advice. I wouldn't have removed the nut briefly as I did if I didn't see them do it on the youtube vid!
  2. You're absolutely correct Yorgle…..I have a Gibson tool that fits over the bullet fitting. The problem is that if I crank it counter clockwise (lefty loosey) to add relief to the neck the fitting is just loosening off the rod. I don't get it!! How do I loosen the truss rod to add relief??? Does this sound right? Any Elitist 65 owners..I would love to hear your thoughts!! After viewing a Stewmac video I now realize this is a Gibson style truss rod with a nut on the adjusting end of the rod. I don't see where you can loosen the truss rod with this design. Is mine overtightened already??
  3. I have had an Elitist 1965 Casino for 5 yrs. that I bought on Ebay. Cosmetically it is pristine. The set up was fine during that time. However, recently (I live in upstate NY) it developed very slight string buzz on the high E string around the 14th fret. I removed the truss rod cover and found the end piece on the rod is a"bullet" style brass fitting that screws onto the rod end. Is there a special tool for adjusting this rod other than a basic hex wrench?? I just don't comprehend how this rod functions....it seems to me if I want to add relief to the neck I'm just going to undo the brass bullet cap!! Any advisement is welcomed....please excuse the ignorance, all my other guitars are quite simple utilizing an everyday allen wrench.... thanks
  4. Pennyman...your spot on!! I rewired my 2000 Wildkat and was amazed at the improved tone. Used braided wire, switchcraft jack and toggle, cts pots, etc. Big improvement on a guitar I rarely played before!! Glad I hung on to it and extra glad I did the rewire on it.
  5. Just an update for anyone who peaks in to this post: I did rewire my 2000 Epi Wildkat with amazing results. I replaced the switch and endpin jack with Switchcraft brand and used Gavitt vintage braided 22 gauge wire. I also replaced the stock cap with a Sprague Orange Drop.022 cap. Outside of a few shorting issues that needed correcting it was not as hard as expected. I am very happy with the results and feel it was worth it for a guitar I won't part with. I'm not concerned with devaluing the guitar by changing the original stock wires/parts...as stated, I won't part with it. Thanks for tuning in....
  6. Thanks Yorgle for your help on this one.....it doesn't make much sense to me either. I switched things around to comply with the official Epi Wildkat (Kat Series) diagram and every thing is now working fine. I believe there is a noticeable difference in the sound and it was worth it to add Switchcraft parts (3 way toggle and endpin jack). I also changed the cap to an Orange Drop .022. Can't help wonder if a .047 would have made a difference though!! All said and done ...I'm satisfied with the results and , oh yea, you apparently you don't have to ground all three wires at the switch ground lug!!!!
  7. Your close but not quite!! The hot leads from the outside lugs are arranged as such: One goes to a vol pot and one goes to the tone pot. leaving the center lug on the 3 way going to the other vol. pot and on to the master vol. Not like the official scheme. I reviewed photos I took prior to starting this project and sure enough that's the way it was done. I reversed the two that were backwards and now I get sound. Unfortunately there seems to be a short somewhere as it comes and goes from sound to no sound. I also rewired the switch without grounding the 2 hots and there is no resulting effect...so far!! Stay tuned....I do appreciate a 2nd pair of eyes on a different Wildkat!!
  8. You are correct sir.....the switch I removed was Epiphone stock and had the hot leads and output on the same side. The ground lug was on the opposite side. I'm using a Switchcraft in replacing the Epi stock switch and it causes a logistical challenge with the ground lug placed between the pup hot leads. My 1st problem was getting 3 ground wires spliced together and to fit them thru the small ground lug opening. When I did this same job on my Epi LP I only grounded the output at the switch. I grounded the hot leads at the pot tops. On my Wildkat (model yr. 2000) the output lead is grounded at the switch, and the hot goes from the center lug on the switch to a volume pot and then out to the Master volume with ground on both pots. The official Epi diagram is different....hot from switch goes to "tone pot" and then to master vol.
  9. Yorgle….thanks so much for the input. I did use your 2nd option of soldering 2 outer grounds to the 1 that is soldered to the main ground lug on the switch. I also soldered a ground at the opposite end at the pot top for these 2 wires (the official schematic shows ground at both ends of these wires). I used vintage braided wire and had to replace all three wires due to the original wire being too short to work with. So I replaced them one by one at the exact lug that the original wire was soldered. Result was no sound at all after job completed. Solder joints look good ( nice shine on them and solid hold). It is noted that the original wiring at factory did not correspond with the official Kat series wire diagram!! But it worked fine nonetheless. Not sure where the problem is...any thoughts??? Stay with me on this one..I appreciate it!!
  10. Anybody who has replaced or rewired a 3 way toggle switch on an Epiphone Wildkat...I need some advice...Please???!!! I am trying to rewire my Wildkat and noticed that all 3 hot leads connecting at the switch are also spliced into 1 ground. On a Switchcraft 3 way the ground lug is on the opposite side(as opposed to the stock switch) and using vintage braided wire makes it quite difficult to fit them on the small ground lug. Can I just ground the center lead as done with my Epi LP and ground the others at the potentiometer top?? The Epiphone schematic on line dated May 2001 also shows all 3 leads grounded at the switch. I don't understand why they are grounded at both ends!!?? HELP!! I look forward to any advice...Thanks
  11. Jeff....I rewired my Epi LP Standard Limited Edition (1998) and used pushback style braided wire from toggle switch right thru to the endpin jack. replaced all the pots, the toggle and the jack with high end parts. Sounds better to me and is clean as silk. It took a while but I love playing it now. I am not a fan of replacing pups because if your doing that why not just buy an LP with the right pups to start with??? BTW, are you the Jeff Bostic on TCM?? If you are...you're my hero!!!!
  12. I own a turquoise 2000 Epi Wildkat that gets ignored amongst some of my other guitars. I have read that more current models of this guitar sound muddled and dark!!?? I would love some feedback from anyone who owns one of these early versions to address if there is any noticeable improvement from a rewire job. Look forward to hearing from you.....if any other details are necessary I will gladly provide....thanks in advance.
  13. Thanks everybody for your input......I guess to clarify I should be asking what gauge/brand could provide the best tone for the Elitist Casino??!! I'm going to use a set of Elixir 10-46's and see what happens!
  14. Just picked up a beautiful Casino 65 and wanted some recommendations on string gauge. It is in need of new strings and I usually use Elixir 9-46 nanowebs on my electrics. Any suggestions are appreciated!! Thanks in advance.....
  15. I thought I would let you know that I fixed my hum by replacing the nanoflex pup. It sounds amazing now!!! I would still prefer a simple LR Baggs element though.....Good luck with yours!!
  16. last year I surveyed this site for help in troubleshooting and fixing a major hum/howl in my Masterbilt AJ500RE. I received a lot of advice which I greatly appreciated. I thought I would report my solution to those who may be interested. My problem was a poorly installed nanoflex pup. It appears that when the pickup was installed at the Epiphone factory it was damaged in the following manner: the installer kinked or bent the pickup resulting in a break in the circuit. It never was inserted into the saddle slot entirely, falling short by a few centimeters. As a result it was bent into a 90 degree angle where it should have been laying flat in the slot. The new nanoflex p/u was purchased for $34 at the Shadow Electronics website and sounds incredible. There is not one bit of static, pop or crackle in my esonic 2 system now!!! I am responsible for not noticing this earlier, but better late than never..... Thanks to those who provided info on this problem..... :) :)
  17. I fully agree with GuitarLight about the comparison and how well Masterbilts stack up against Martins and Gibsons. Haven't played any Taylors but My 2008 AJ500RE was as good to my ears as my brother's Martin HD-28 and his 69' Gibson Hummingbird when I played them side by side!! I did get a good one and understand his point about the varying quality of Masterbilts…..a good one is a keeper and irreplaceable!! My son's AJ500R (a 2011) doesn't sound anywhere near as good as mine. It doesn't even have the same dimensions or shape...
  18. Update as of 8/31/18....I successfully completed a total rewire on the LP with Switchcraft and CTS parts.....problem solved, although I never figured out why the pup was weak sounding to begin with!!! oh well.....
  19. Using a Weller WLC100 I successfully completed a total rewire job on the Epi Les Paul STD 2001 and no heat damage to the switch, pots, or input jack!!! The neck pup wasn't working properly and I couldn't troubleshoot the problem piece meal.....so I replaced everything. I highly recommend John Coloccia's youtube tutorial for beginners like myself..A big help overall!! He does the whole job step by step with great detailed explanation.....
  20. Thanks for that tidbit of info LongMan!!! I didn't know that it could affect value of the guitar. I'm rather fond of the turquoise color and the Epiphone bigsby type of whammy.... Not easy to find this year and color anymore!! Wildkat
  21. Yes this is exactly what mine looks like....I think it sounds fine as is but can't help wonder if it would improve with braided wire, etc. BTW thanks for the tip on uploading photos!!
  22. I appreciate the input so far.....I do have a decent soldering iron (weller) and I had to use solder wick...don't have a sucker yet. My big concern is if I applied the solder iron to the switch lugs too long can I cause heat damage that ruins the function of the switch?? I'll know soon enough when I rewire it in the guitar, and test it!! Thanks again....
  23. I will be rewiring a new Switchcraft 3 way toggle on my Epi Les Paul after an attempt with the factory wiring failed. I now need to rewire it and I intend to use braided wire. My concern is that I may damage the switch when removing solder if I apply the solder iron too long. Is this a potential "rookie mistake"??? Any info is appreciated...I have very limited soldering experience.
  24. Just used this video and post to remove a volume knob from my Epi LP std. and it worked like a charm!!!! Thanks guys....
  25. Thanks Kidblast….wasn't sure I fully understood the shaft issue but now do and don't know if I have to route out or drill a bigger opening for the shaft, etc??!!
×
×
  • Create New...