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About Black13

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  1. My vote for best non-Masterbilt Epiphone goes to Dave Navarro's signature "Jane". It's mostly solid wood, with ebony fretboard, bone nut and saddle. I has the e-Sonic preamp without the extra magnetic pickup. It's built at the Samick Indonesia factory where the newest Masterbilts are currently being made. It's fully bound and has an abalone rosette. It's the longer scale though, at 25.5". Its 16:1 Grover tuning machines are easy to finesse to pitch. Its price falls in the middle of the Masterbilt line. It's BLACK! I prefer the enclosed tuning machines and the symmetrical headstock over the Masterbilts. She's a beast. If Edgar Allen Poe had a hummingbird, this would be it. It's kind of gorgeous and doesn't look like all the other guitars. The graphics are etched underneath the CLEAR pickguard, so the design doesn't get all worn away like on the Hummingbirds. http://www.epiphone.com/Products/Acoustic-Electric/Dave-Navarro-Jane.aspx
  2. My newest acquisition is an Epiphone made by Samick in their Indonesian factory - where their Masterbilts are made now.
  3. It's detailed in the instructions. It was easy to do, but I couldn't bias the stock tubes "hot" enough. You just hook up your leads set to millivolts and turn the potentiometer. Just a heads up, MF has 'em on sale right now for $299: Electarded Sale The limited-edition, 75th-anniversary "1939" Century Amp is a modern 18W all-tube, combo with a 12" speaker that revives an Art Deco-era masterpiece. MSRP: $665.00 Your Savings: - $266.00 On Sale Today: - $99.05 Shipping (48 Contiguous U.S. States) FREE Sale Price: $299.95
  4. Well I for one am not a 500k potentiometer's top-hat, but I take weak insults from random internet "dewsh"-nozzles very seriously. Just kidding. Let's try and keep it civil and on topic, folks.
  5. You mad, bro? I feel ashamed for feeding the troll. Hilarious though. Thanks for the laughs. Good stuff. Getting all worked up over my intelligence makes me happy. I'll stop feeding you now, so please, go on. Try to stay on topic, rct. You're only stressing yourself out.
  6. *Don't* act like . . . *for* spelling . . . *your* computer . . . *it's* the internet . . . I feel sorry for your mother. Illiterate people are funny and your anti-semitism really doesn't help your case. SMH.
  7. I'm Jewish and I take offense to being called a Nazi. It's just always hilarious when illiterate people call normal people stupid.
  8. "Your statement above proves *YOU'RE* stupid and I am not about to educate *an* idiot."
  9. Does anybody know if a generic footswitch will work with these? One thing that's sort of neat is how you can stomp through the different input voicings, using a standard a/b stompbox going to the dark and bright (or normal) inputs. I lengthened the speaker cable (solder + heatshrink) for its internal speaker and routed it out one of the slot-vents to plug into the external speaker jack. Now, it's a simple task to unplug the internal speaker for when using a closed-back cab. I didn't like how the open back Electar speaker sounded when used in conjunction with my external cab. I've just been plugging it into the footswitch jack to keep it from flailing about when using it with an external cabinet. My favorite thing is how the amp sits "right side up" inside this combo, like in a head. Most combos mount the amplifier up top, and have their tubes hanging upside down. Also, the input is on the right, with the power switch on the left, again like a head instead of most combos.
  10. My post was relevant, as I'm using these "old" pickups today. You hypocritically bumped this "old" thread just to complain. That's what I get for using the search function, huh? If the thread hasn't been closed, it is open for discussion. Any other rules are made up in your head and only apply to yourself, so your complaints will be ignored. Carry on.
  11. They are quite hot. On a more normal humbucker, I have to use a boost pedal to get into the same range of the Dirty Fingers or 500T. All that early-stage gain at my fingertips takes things to the next level. I'm going to say they're my favorite pups. The 500t sounds like it has more low-end growl, but that could be because it's on a Les Paul, while the DF is on my ES339.
  12. I ended up grabbing one of these. It sounded "weird" at first, like the cabinet was loose and rattling (chuffing), but that went away after a couple hours. I don't know: maybe it needed broken in? It sounded like the baffle was loose or something, like an old Fender Champ, but I thought maybe it was designed that way, but it sounds "tight" now, so I don't know. It sounds like an old tube amp combo, and looks really neat. The handle was bolted on crooked, and there is a crack in the cabinet where the plywood is curved at the corner. It looks like the crack is only through one layer, and seems like they either glued it to repair it, or slapped a bunch of varnish over it, but it's still pretty obvious. (Hopefully Epiphone will fix it under warranty or something) I got it because I've always been a stickler to the all-tube amp sounds, but then I grabbed a tiny little Electro-Harmonix 44 Magnum amp/pedal that blows the Electar away in every way. Haven't touched the Electar since I got this solid-state pedal/amp. I never thought I'd ever be able to stand a SS amp's sound, but I've changed my mind. I use the SS pedal/amp to preserve the tubes on my tube-amps, but it does everything I want, so I'm thinking about getting rid of the tube amps now. I want to add that having the power amp on my pedalboard keeps the unbalanced/shielded instrument cabling run shorter, and having the master volume at my feet is really convenient, especially if the controls are hidden on the bottom/back of a combo like the Electar. The Electar just looks so cool, but that's the wrong reason to buy an amp. It's semi-portable, but the knobs and switches aren't protected by the cabinet enough. If the combo fell on its back, or if something else bumped up against it (on the road), the switches and knobs would get broken off. There isn't enough overhang on the cabinet to protect its controls - so it really needs a road case to be correctly portable, but it's light and small and has a (crooked) handle. I got the Electar for its portability, but this little 44 Magnum lives on my pedalboard, all sealed up and safe/protected during travel, with nothing more to carry - so it's more portable than the Electar with its knobs and switch unprotected, and the Electar's fancy finish is more fragile and likely to show scuff-marks easier too. So the Electar reissue is just going to be my home-practice-amp, but in reality it just sits there looking pretty as I use the 44 Magnum pedal/amp for everything. Besides looking pretty, I guess I could use it for studio recording for those times when "genuine tube toanz" need to be captured, but the difference isn't likely to be noticed. In retrospect, I don't need the Electar Century ReIssue amp, but I still like it. It has its own charm, and I plan on keeping it around. Doesn't take up much space and could be a good candidate for future custom modding. You have to take off the entire rear panel to unplug the internal "Electar" speaker's 1/4" phono plug. Plugging another cable in its "external speaker" jack (parallel wired) and testing the resistance at the end of the cable I just plugged in (with the amp's power off) measured right at 2Ω's resistance. The manual say's the internal speaker is supposed to be 8Ω's and another 8Ω load can be utilized for a stable rating at 4Ω's. Of course, maybe my reading wasn't accurate, since I didn't measure the speaker's terminals directly (too lazy to remove the back panel) and I'm reading the resistance of the jacks, wiring, etc. I did plug in a single 12-inch cabinet rated at 16Ω's parallel in the Electar's external speaker jack (going by the specs that the internal speaker is rated at 8Ω's), and it was happy with that, but I wish there was an easier way to unplug its internal speaker without undoing all those screws. Resistance = (Speaker A x Speaker B) / (Speaker A + Speaker B) Resistance = (16 Ohms x 8 Ohms) / (16 Ohms + 8 Ohms) Resistance = 128 / 24 Resistance = 5.333 Ohms A little more cushion from its 4Ω minimum rating, and it worked out fine. Of course, the different drivers and cabinet designs didn't really work together well, but that's for another day. Yes, the Electar sounds good, for an open backed, small combo. Is it loud? I thought it was going to be a lot louder. Yes, it's louder than 1 and 5 watt tube amps, but not by much. The 44W Magnum pedal/amp is way louder. (Louder clean tone before breaking up too), and this Electar seems maybe 3dB louder than the claimed 5 Watts of the Blackstar HT-5RS. Okay, maybe 6dB, but I thought 18 watts of "real tube" would be a lot more louder than the "hybrid" BlackStar 5 watter. I'm just saying it's hardly noticeable. (Both through the Orange 1x12 cab - for sensitivity and unscientific subjective testing) The Magnum 44W pedal/amp seems like a hundred (okay 50W) watt all-tube head. I'm just saying. The Electar 18W all-tube combo is a "practice" amp, and I'm not sure it would be useful near a loud drummer. (I also thought it would be physically larger, being a 12" speaker and all, but it's all housed in a compact cabinet.) The SS pedal/amp could handle any drummer at the loudest of stage volumes. The Electar is more for mellow jazz and bedrooms. You could get away with it being your main rig, but I think you'd live on the verge of needing/wanting more all the time. The Electar begins breaking up at much lower levels than the Magnum 44W. The Magnum 44W breaks up smoother/creamier. The Electar breaks up more raw, raunchy, dirty, grittier. I'm just saying.
  13. Did anyone ever try one of these electar century 1939 amps out? I've read one bad review and I'm looking for a second opinion.
  14. Thanks, JasonG. So their body shapes are totally identical. Good to know.
  15. What about the other way around? Will the Gibson ES-339 fit in the Epiphone case? (I realize this is a dumb question, but I just wanted to revive this thread anyway)
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