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RickGibsonDenver

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About RickGibsonDenver

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  1. One step closer to the Star Trek transporter..... "Beam Me Up, Scotty!"
  2. Yeah, that's what I'm told over and over, give Gibson, Taylor and Martins very special treatment. My Chinese Ovation Celebrity ($200 w/case @ EZPawn) sits out on a wall hanger, the face (sound board) has obvious waves and ripples, yet it stays pretty much in tune, sounds decent and projects well with a heavy pick, basically never complains. I've also been told that if I give my Hummingbird a few years for the wood to cure, it will become a lot less "delicate". It will be out of warranty by then, so I won't take the chance. Oh, that would be way too easy....... Construct an air intake vent with an electric fan, an air outlet vent with electronically adjustable louvers, then connect them to variable auto-pot switches that are activated by an in-room barometer... So with constant indoor humidity and temp, the baro has dropped from 30.01 to 29.69 since my last tuning, and I'm roughly 1 1/2 frets sharp on my Charvel, about a fret sharp on my Lucille. (Looks like we're in for some nasty weather...)
  3. The temp and humidity are constant where I keep them. It's got to be just the pressure.
  4. I've posted other threads about humidity and acoustic guitars, after I "Killed a Hummingbird" by leaving it out of the case during a dry arctic storm. Since then I've replaced it, kept it in a humidified case, bought an indoor/outdoor weather station, repaired the home humidifier system, and started tracking weather conditions and "guitar behavior". I keep several electric guitars on wall hangers in the family room, which now is at a constant state of 35%RH, and 72.5F. I think the only variation is barometer pressure, so I've been tracking that, and here's what (I think) I've found. When the atmospheric pressure drops, my guitars all tend to go sharp. When it climbs, they go flat. I'm not completely sure why, although the cheapest in my collection, with the dainty, frail neck seems to accentuate more, while the Lucille responds similar, but lesser. Can anyone with an accurate barometer and a Snark tuner try the same, and confirm my results?
  5. It goes both ways.... I was the only bidder on a 2010 Les Paul Studio Swamp Ash, and got it for $900. It had been sitting in a South Carolina guitar shop for a year, and nobody would buy it. The seller was upset that I bought it "lower than his cost". When it arrived, I discovered that the tune-o-matic bridge tuner was out of place, and it was impossible to tune as-was. No wonder it didn't sell, it wasn't tunable. A local shop tuned for a very small price. Now this thing sounds INCREDIBLE, the tone is awesome. A great eBay buy.
  6. The problem I have with my "around the neck holder" is that I can't see around it, and have to play the guitar by feel alone. I'm just not that good yet.
  7. I've known two Hyundai owners (in the last year) that had the engine implode, and both from a timing belt issue. Apparently when the timing belts break the valves crash into the piston heads, and that's all she wrote. They were both north of 90k miles. Other than that, I haven't heard much wrong with them. I've personally (myself & close family) had very good results with Honda and Toyota. There are thousands of used parts in every salvage yard, so keeping a used car going shouldn't be expensive (unless you repair at the dealer). I've heard few good things about American cars, and I won't own one. However, what is an "American Car" anyway? Most Fords, GMs and other American cars are assembled in Mexico or Canada, while Hondas and Toyotas are assembled in the US. My Tacoma was assembled in Fremont California by United Autoworker's Union employees, and that's where my money went. I had a tie rod disconnect (on a '78 Ford F-150, great truck, BTW) at highway speed. I think the gyroscopic principle will keep the wheel rotating in a straight line at high speed, and the functioning wheel can coax it into a turn, when needed. At low speed though, good luck. My BEST advice, however, whatever vehicle you decide on, is to GET GOOD TIRES. Ultimately it's the tires that turn, brake and accelerate the car. Good all-season, grippy tires will keep you from sliding into another car on ice, and keep you on the road. Whatever you decide, best of luck, Rick
  8. http://www.ricgibson.com/Spitfire/Donuts.wmv http://www.ricgibson.com/Spitfire/Donuts.wmv Wow, I can't post a video in a graphic format, and I can't delete this post altogether either. I'm hopeless....
  9. VERY nice livery. Judging from your user name, I'd probably be more interested in what you've got in the garage, though.
  10. I've never taken a deer with a side arm, but I have taken a few pigs, and that was while being charged, so yeah, life threatening. 99.9% of my side arm activity involves a CCP, and I pray to never go there, but that too would be life threatening. I will agree with you that most failures are user caused, unless you're carrying something cheaply made, like my Kel Tec P3AT (.380 auto), which I won't sell, because then I could be the cause of someone else demise, it jams that often, straight out of the box. Or consider my Bobcat MP5, I rarely run through a 30 round mag without a jam, and it's the definition of a cheap knock-off. A cheap knock-off hand gun could get you killed. A guitar now, unless you've done some bad wiring, AND are standing in a puddle...or front row at a death metal show...or meet "El Kabong".......... a cheap knock-off guitar shouldn't get you killed. I used to make a living with firearms, so I don't like putting them in the same category as something benign as a guitar. I'd think some vets might agree. That's my own humble opinion.
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