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Fatstrat

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About Fatstrat

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  1. I can give you a pretty good idea. I am presently engaged in a repair project on an Epiphone guitar. The guitar that I'm working on is an Epiphone that I bought cheap because it had the EXACT SAME damage. The bridge had broken in half. With the rear portion of the bridge gone from just behind the saddle. And the front portion still firmly attached. What I discovered when I removed the remaining 1/2 of the bridge is that for cosmetic reasons, Epiphone applies the finish on the guitar top 1st. Then glues on the bridge with the finish running UNDER the bridge edges. On average of 1/8" to in places nearly 1/4". And glue does not stick as well to finished wood as it does to bare wood. Which means that the bridge is glued strongly in the center area under the bridge, With a weaker bond around the edges. So your bridge bond likely broke loose on an edge and remained strongly bonded in the center. Causing a break in the bridge. BTW, Epiphone will not sell you a replacement bridge. But bridges are pretty much standard sizes and you can buy one that will fit cheaply. BUt it will need to be properly fitted and applied. Not really all that hard to do if you know how. If not, best to have a Pro do it.
  2. LOL! Much like the dad in the Christmas Story movie, I may ask Santa for a guitar. But all I'll get will be new pajamas and a can of Simonize.
  3. Heck, that's better than my way. I'm doing it that way next time!
  4. I often replace pick guards on guitars I buy to ones I find more appealing. I'm sure there are other ways of making certain you get it stuck right the FIRST time. But this is how I do it. And it's worked well for me. First carefully place guard exactly where you like it. The using small strips of blue painters tape, tape it down in a couple of places so that it does not move. Then using the painters tape, carefully tape AROUND other edges of the guard at strategic points. Make the tape about 3 layers thick so that you have an edge template that you can use to re-align the guard perfectly when you apply it. Even then the application is somewhat tricky. But you push just the edges of the guard up against the tape template. Hopefully getting it position correctly the 1st time. But even if don't, you only have the edge stuck to the guitar and can much more easily remove it for another try. Once you think you have it right, apply the remaining portion of the guard. The trick is in the strategic tape template. If you get the pieces in the right places, it's easy to align the new guard. Hope this helps. The 2nd post of this thread has pic of one I did on my DR-100. http://forum.gibson.com/index.php?/topic/125538-modding-my-dr-100/page__p__1710041__fromsearch__1#entry1710041
  5. I disagree completely. Even in laminate, there is a pronounced difference between the tones of Rosewood and Mahogany. For example, recently Yamaha has upgraded their solid top/lam body acoustic line from the 700 series (with non scalloped braces) to the 800 series (with scalloped braces). So there are now a lot of used 700 series guitars available as people upgrade. I recently was in a pawnshop that had 2. A 700S (solid top over laminated nato) and a 730S (solid top over laminated Rosewood). The differences in tone on these same design/different tone wood guitars was obvious. IMO if Epiphone want to market an AJ body guitar, they SHOULD go with laminated Rosewood to more closely mimic the Gibson AJ tone.
  6. To my knowledge, Epiphone doesn't make an entry level laminate Rosewood body guitar. And I'm curious as to why? Everyone else does. If you like Rosewood tone, both Yamaha and Alvarez offer laminate Rosewood body guitars in the sub $500. price range. While Epiphone doesn't even offer Rosewood on the AJ Southern Jumbo style guitars. Which in the Gibson line, are Rosewood. I think Epiphone is really dropping the ball on this.
  7. If you're looking for tone improvement, IMO Martin 80/20 lights are the strings I like on the DR-100. They brighten it up considerably.
  8. I have an Epiphone DR-100SB that was damaged in a fire. I believe the guitar to be repairable. But due to value exceeding the cost of having it done professionally, I am going to attempt it myself. I'm a pretty handy "fix it" type of guy. I make knives, repairs guns and do lots of other types of repair projects. And have a well equipped work shop. Also this isn't my 1st guitar project. So I believe that I can save this guitar. At least to the extent of making it reasonably presentable and playable. One of the aspects of the intended repair will be to replace at least a portion of the body binding which was slightly melted. It would be of great help if someone could tell me what size binding was used on the guitar, so that I can begin gathering needed supplies. Any info appreciated.
  9. I've got an Epiphone DR-100 that was damaged in a fire that I'm going to try to repair. And one of the aspects of the repair will be to replace at least some of the body binding. Portions of which were slightly melted. Would like to know what size binding was used so that I can begin gathering needed supplies. Any help appreciated.
  10. And reportedly (as per this article) he did the Allman tribute concert on an off the rack Fender Squire Bullet. A $130. guitar! http://www.guitarworld.com/features-news-interviews/guitarist-jack-pearson-jazz-jam-humble-genius/%0922304
  11. Did anyone see it? Obviously the headliner featured guests were great. But I thought that the "house band" was awesome. These guyed the entire 3 hour show. Backing all the headliners. In particular was one of the two house band guitarist who played a Stratocaster. And played the majority of the lead/slide solos. (except those played by the headliners). They never introduced them that I saw. And the credits at the went so fast that if their names were there, I couldn't catch them. That guy was phenomenal. Anyone know who he was? He comes into view in this video at about 13 seconds in.
  12. I like the 80/20's because they brighten up the tone superbly. It's like night and day compared to regular strings. Obviously if you don't a bright'ish tone, they might not be for you.
  13. When you re-string it, try some Martin 80/20 light gauge strings. IMO the prefect strings for a DR-100.
  14. Although I own a Martin and have owned other high end guitars (Gibson Guild etc), I'm a huge fan of the Epiphone DR-100. IMO it's the best bang for the buck guitar going out there. Especially at the beginner level. My 2 cent on what strings to use are Martin 80/20 light gauge. They will brighten it up considerably. Don't forget a good set up. They come from factory with high action that can be lowered quite a bit for MUCH more comfortable playing. You get one of these DR-100 set up right with some 80/20 lights on it, and it'll sound/play like a much more expensive guitar. I'd rather play my DR-100 than the Gibson J-45 I owned.
  15. Right 3MM. LOL. BTW, Did you know that as far as specs, there is no difference between the DR-100 and the PR-150? The supposed difference is in cosmetics. IE: the binding color. But I've done this modding on two guitars. Both purchased used off local classified for 1/2 the retail price. The 1st one was a PR-150 that looked exactly like the OP's guitar with black bindings and slightly darker shade of burst. And the 2nd as pictured above is a DR-100 with the white. Obviously they are interchangable at the Epiphone factory. this is the 1st one which I later re-sold.
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