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Leonard McCoy

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Leonard McCoy last won the day on May 27

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About Leonard McCoy

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    http://catstevensguitar.wordpress.com/

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    Male
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    : Katmandu
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    Great guitars, pianos, and Cat Stevens tunes

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  1. Any decent coated strings will serve your purpose.
  2. Fantastic condition, fantastic sounding.
  3. Unfortunately, the post that I reserved for Japanese serian numbers can no longer be edited which is why I never could finish the work. I refer you to the unofficial Epiphone wiki for further reference: http://www.epiphonewiki.org/index/Epiphone_Serial_Number_Decoding.php
  4. I don't think a fretboard would be considered a spare part. Gibson only provide hardware parts. Your only option might be to turn to third parties (in which case it's doubtful the replacement will be a fit in any way, shape, or form "out of the box") or have a luthier make one for you (a costly enterprise). But who knows, perhaps there's someone out there offering Epiphone-ready fretboards? I would reconsider buying a guitar without a fretboard...
  5. Don't use steelwool for God's sake! If you're not well versed in wet-sanding, stay away from it. It's also unclear how many layers of nitro are really left, so sanding away layers might be counterproductive since the scratches could be too deep in. I would turn the guitar over to a luthier to see what can be done in terms of the sides. I wouldn't do any further DIY experimenting on it (as done by the previous owner), since it would likely devalue the guitar even more. At a certain point it's nonrepairable and would require refinishing which is a tedious, fickle high-dollar job not many can do right. Micromesh (from StewMac for instance) might be your best option but I would best leave it to a professional well versed with Gibson nitrocellulose lacquer and equipped with, and being able to operate, a good buffing wheel as well.
  6. The first photo barely show a hairline reflecting back. Inspecting the guitar under blacklight will fully reveal its history including any hard-to-spot repairs and defects.
  7. It's the old Gibson bar stool that's always been available anywhere else.
  8. Lemon oil eats into nitro finishes like wolves into herds of lambs. Don't be reckless with a high-dollar guitar. Instead, take a clean, dry soft rag and rub one of the smaller affected spots lightly in either a straight or circular pattern. Ever so slighty dampen the rag next with warm water or saliva and repeat the process. Finally, if that didn't help, take a new dry rag and use a Gibson guitar polish or cleaner (specifically made for nitrocellulose finishes containing a light abrasive also) and massage the spot in the same manner. If the above didn't yield the desired results, I recommend handing the guitar over to a luthier or Gibson themselves asking for advice on how to proceed from here on out. Using very fine micromeshes (from Stewmac for instance) to polish-rub the stains out, which likely only sit atop the surface, would probably do the trick if all else fails, but I'd consult with a professional first. From looking at the photos, I'm not clear where the affected spots are actually located at.
  9. If the solvent got in touch with the nitrocellulose lacquer of the guitar, then permanent damage has been dealt, since the solvent reacted with the lacquer permanently. An expert luthier on Gibson nitrocellulose finishes (or Gibson themselves) may know how touch up the affected spot in the finish, but it's not looking good. If bad comes to worse, the whole guitar would require refinishing. Pictures of the affected spots would help evaluate how bad the problem is. We would also need to know what chemicals the contact cleaner is made out of.
  10. Well, if the heel is slanted, which is not normal of course, it begs the question whether the neck has been set at an angle as well resulting in a twist, hence my stressing that point. There could be various other reasons as to why the heel is as slanted as it is. If it doesn't impede playability or bother you in terms of cosmetics, it's all good and well, I guess.
  11. In the first photo, not so much in the second one, it looks like the heel is slightly at an angle to the body. I trust it's no optical illusion? Does the fretboard perfectly meet the body at the bass side? Any irregularities there? The second photo is inconclusive as to whether or not the neck is twisted and, if so, by how much. While looking down the neck, see if it's twisted toward either the bass or treble side. You can take the two sharp points where the headstock goes over into the neck as reference points. Further, I refer you to Dan Erlewine's "How to Make Your Electric Guitar Play Great" for proper instructions and how-tos. A slight twist is usually nothing to worry about, but too much twist can affect playability and is something I would definetely shy away from when buying a guitar. A luthier or professional guitar technician might provide you with a proper hands-on evaluation.
  12. I don't think it's your fault at all, ks. You're doing a fantastic job moderating and have always been doing so. It's the underlying forum architecture that got us good here flooding the gates with so many Chinese bots that it's impossible to keep up moderating them manually. For every bot you crush there will be a dozen others.
  13. It's Chinese bots. They have an easy time registering an account, I imagine, since there's no question check or other security measure preventing this automated crap. The forum needs proper maintenance in terms of moderation as well as its architecture.
  14. The pictures are too small to tell. But even then, it's probably hard to tell by looking at those pictures alone. It doesn't hurt to have a professional check her out at hand, now does it?
  15. Did you already try and ask Gibson directly? What do you need the information for? It could be that each bridge's height is different in that they were slightly sanded down during assembly in order to match the neck perfectly and in order to avoid having to modify the saddle in any way. That's at least how Godin Guitars do it.
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