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Leonard McCoy

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Leonard McCoy last won the day on May 27

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About Leonard McCoy

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    http://catstevensguitar.wordpress.com/

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    Male
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    broken
  • Interests
    Great guitars, pianos, and Cat Stevens tunes

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  1. Leonard McCoy

    Warranty

    I've registered my J-180 Custom Shop just now with the same result. Not that I would need an e-mail confirmation or anything really, for warranty outside North America is not covered by Gibson but the retailer itself where I bought the guitar.
  2. The original tuners would probably be the Gibson Deluxe keystone tuners which you can order from Gibson to this date. I imagine the owner swapped them for the Schaller's because they didn't work very well at the time.
  3. Great guitar. I love that eye-popping quilt maple. Music-wise, meh.
  4. From the photos I feared as much, that the break-off point of the truss rod was too far recessed into the channel at the headstock side. His plan to remove the neck (like with a neck reset) to get to the broken truss rod is quite clever actually—certainly less invasive and visible than actually removing the fretboard. He would just have to drill into the dovetail heel a tad, I imagine, to get to the truss rod end in order to pull it out. Let's just hope the truss rod isn't glued down across the entire truss rod channel, to the underside of the fretboard, or in other wild places.
  5. The guitar isn't intonated correctly at the saddle. The saddle would have to be remade and a new slot be rerouted at the bridge at an inverse angle. In general I can only discourage any lefty to flip a right-hand guitar, be it an expensive or cheap one. Make sure to get a factory lefty to avoid the hassle and often undesired results.
  6. This is a tough one. If you're lucky enough that there's enough material left that the truss rod end can indeed be re-threaded, which doesn't look like it to me, and if you can indeed find a luthier equipped and experienced enough to do the procedure, by all means go for it. It's the least invasive measure and the most cost-efficient on top of it. If the fretboard does need to be stripped off however, which would be the default case, things don't look so pretty and it gets really expensive really fast depending on how well the job is done. The fretboard would need be removed, the truss rod replaced, the binding around the fretboard redone, and the neck would need refinishing work. That's a lot of work altogether, taken it all goes smoothly (which it may not), and not very many luthiers are competent and experienced enough to do all that on a high-end guitar like this. It's a highly invasive procedure that is costly, takes a lot of time and effort, and may leave marks nonetheless which would devalue the guitar. If the neck is already still straight, with minimal relief showing at the 7th fret when doing the Gibson relief test, you might want to consider to play the guitar a little bit first before making the plunge. If you two don't bond, don't sweat it and move on.
  7. Curious. I never knew such a J-200 was made back then. Or then again it was modified in some way or was a one-of.
  8. Congratulations! Better late than never (though understandable, I guess). He must have been playing Gibson acoustics, predominantly J-180 and J-200, since the early sixties at least.
  9. Just get rid of the DNA and polish the area of the guitar up again.
  10. Jerry's got a Gibson on the workbench again:
  11. Who would have thought that there always be a way to further twist one's words or lead the most absurd argument I have read in recent time. If you want to put uranium on your guitar, put uranium on your guitar. If you want to be the bridge-pin discerning nutjob in the family, be the bridge-pin discerning nutjob in the family. And if you want to sing out, sing out.
  12. But that's not what I stated at all. How you make the unbelievable leap from "hear the difference between two different kind of non-brass string pins" (to have to quote myself) to "detect musical nuances" is beyond me.
  13. I'm not for that Tohu wa-bohu around nut, saddle, and bridge pins only because the player can swap them relatively easily for he somehow thinks it's an "upgrade" to an already high-end guitar. It's a fallacy. Any dense, consistent, hard material will do (deer antler, bone, tusq, any other high-tech plastic, etc). As such, what the guitar came with is perfectly fine and reliable for decades to come. Let's put it this way: If you can hear the difference between two different kind of non-brass string pins (their purpose being holding down the dead end of the string without any rattling going on and nothing else!), you might want to either consult a therapist or sign up for entry into the Guiness Book of World Records.
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