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About Wondo

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    Advanced Member
  1. Hey all. Been a long time since I have been here. I was part of the complaining brigade after the first Lifeson Release (355). Well, I have my Lifeson Axcess now. AL 260. Royal Crimson. Beautiful guitar! Was set up pretty well from the shop except that the neck was bowed pretty good and had too much relief. I fixed that with a truss rod adjustment. All is well in that department. The complaint I have is the trem arm assembly. First of all there is a small piece of teflon that fits in the barrel where the trem arm goes. That was missing. Of course when I first got it, I had no idea this was missing. But, I quickly found out after I could not get the trem arm to fit in properly and then the allen screw ended up scratching the arm pretty good. I was actually going to send it back because I could not play it like this, when I found a tiny little piece of white plastic the size of a small peppercorn inside of the case. I studied it for a while and the lightbulb went off. I put it in the allen screw hole and it now does its job, but will fall out again if not careful. I called Graph-Tech, I made them aware of the problem and they are trying to get parts to put up on their site. Other than this problem and the hassel of having to use an allen key everytime you want to adjust the trem arm or take it out to store in the case, I will admit, that this is a great guitar. I did hear of the original electronic problems, of which I was notified about, which made me postpone the purchase until this problem was fixed. There is no paperwork for the recent runs because after they put a push pull for the Piezo, the old documentation was not correct. Maybe Gibson will someday release the new booklet for the recent run. I have been playing mine most through two amps. I love doing Natural Science and 2112 with this guitar. Nails both parts nicely.
  2. Right. The 336 and 356 do not have the Memphis circuit. I believe, like a Les Paul they have 300k pots and not much high end will be lost when you roll down the volume. The 339 and 359 have 500k pots and have a cap to help not lose the high end when volume is rolled off. The 339 and 359 sound closer to a 335/355 respectively and the 336 and 356 sound closer to a Les Paul. I never found the 336 or 356 to be brittle. I actually have Les Pauls that retain more high end than my 356 did. The 356 was warm and woody but could still get nice clarity on all notes. If you got a 335 figured top, isn't that a Memphis guitar? Might it have the Memphis wiring?
  3. Well, I as a member of the club, but then sold my natural CS 356 to fund the purchase of the Lifeson 355. And now I miss it. So, I found another 356 and am planning on getting it soon.
  4. Wondo

    356 vs 359

    If you had a choice between a 356 or a 359 which would you choose and why? For those of you with experience of both, what do you think?
  5. Well, The report is not good. I was able to find out about the frets before the guitar shipped. I found out from Memphis. They are .90 wide and .52 tall which was good for me since the height is usually lower once they are dressed. However, upon receiving the guitar I noticed that the frets were rounded off before the fretboard edge causing the e string to slip off easiy when playing. I brought it to my luthier (Master Luthier) and he said it needs a new fret job. So, I immediately sent it back to the dealer. I was not going to fuss with the Gibson warranty issue since basically, I will need a new guitar. I don't want a refretted guitar that is brand new. However, aside from that glaring mistake, the guitar was flawless. Perfect finish. Great finish and color. Binding all in perfect order (except for the where the frets meet the binding as described above). Very open and resonant guitar with very articulate tones. I love the Varitone on that one and the stereo was very cool. As much as I love the 345 and what it can do, I really do not think I want to buy another guitar from Memphis. I heard many horror stories about them, one being the problems with the Lifeson (which I own and happen to have lucked out). For me the only Gibsons worth buying anymore seems to be the Nashville Custom Shop. What a shame they practically ruined what would otherwise be a fantastic guitar.
  6. Does anybody know how the frets are on the 345 Reissue. What are the fret size?
  7. Robin, Thanks again. Great info. I have one more question at this point, as my new 345 will arrive Tuesday and obviously most questions will be answered then. What kind of frets? I am hoping it has the low profile jumbos. I have the Lifeson 355 with the low profile jumbos and the neck just plays so well - very fast. Thanks
  8. Robin, How do you think the new 345 sounds? Does it compare to the 66 you owned before. I am just concerned that the Varitone may step on the tone a bit as compared to an ES without the Varitone. Thanks
  9. I do belive it is very close to the Walnut finish. Some websites even advertise it as Walnut. I am getting the triburst color. I don't know how this will look in person. I wanted the Vintage Sunburst but that does not seem to be an available color now. It is either Triburst, Trans Brown or Cherry.
  10. Robin, I see in previous posts that you got rid of your 66 345 in favor of the newer Memphis one. You mention that the neck was too thin. Was it that the fretboard was too thin and the newer one is wider or was the slim taper too small? Because the new Memphis versions have a "slim taper" as well. However, I own a Lifeson 355 made in the Memphis Custom shop with a "slim taper" and I would say that it is not the kind of slim taper you would find on a Les Paul Classic with the super skinny neck.
  11. Thanks. I would think with these capabilities, it has to be one of Gibson's unsung heroes. I think I am going to order one.
  12. Does anyone here own one? I would like to know some thoughts on this guitar. How do the two output jacks work? Here is a quote from a review on line. I am wondering if this is true: Unlike the original ES345, which had only one stereo output jack, and required a stereo jack to engage both pickups, the current incarnation of the ES-345 has two output jacks, one is labeled “Mono” and one is labeled “Stereo.” Output jack # 1 is the Mono Jack, and when this is used alone, both pickups are fed through this output, just like any other conventionally wired guitar. However, if you want to play in Stereo, you must connect one standard guitar cord to Output Jack # 1, which is labeled “Mono,” and another standard guitar cord must be connected to Output Jack # 2, which is labeled “Stereo.” With this setup, Output Jack # 1 carries the signal from the neck pickup, and Output Jack # 2 carries the signal from the bridge pickup. Think of the sonic possibilities for live performance. You might have one pickup going to an amp, with completely different settings and/or effects one the right side of the stage, and have the other pickup going to a different amp, also with different settings and/or effects on the left side of the stage. With the flip of the toggle switch, you could have your lead coming from the right side, then the left side of the stage, with a radically different sound from each, and even have both pickups driving two different amps at once with the toggle switch in the center position. Think of the sonic possibilities of having different effects hooked up to each pickup, and simultaneously having two radically different sounds coming from two sides of the stage at once. The sonic possibilities are limitless for the creative musician. See the full review here: ES 345
  13. Does anyone know if these can still be gotten?
  14. Anyone know what year this is? It seems like a strange serial number: 620550 Thanks
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