Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums


All Access
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


Posts posted by Wmachine

  1. On 6/29/2020 at 3:39 AM, merciful-evans said:


    I would. I tried out a beautiful LP Standard I wanted to buy 5 years ago. I went through every combination of guitar & amp controls/EQ and could not get a usable sound out of it. This was using a decent Orange rig. I gave up and moved into the next booth and tried all over again with the Marshall. Same outcome. This took 45 or 50 minutes.

    Before leaving, I picked up a different LP and tried that out. It sounded great immediately. I asked about what pickups were installed in each. The Standard had Burstbuckers and the other one had 59 Classics. 

    The specs may be close, but the proof is in the sound.


    Yes, the proof is in the sound, but in all reality, the only apple to apples comparison is the different pups in the exact same guitar.  Granted, in your case most of the difference *should* be the pups, but there are other factors too.  FWIW, I think the 59 Classics are "better" LP pups than BBs, in my limited experience.

  2. On 6/13/2020 at 11:36 AM, PierreL said:

    The serial number is 10622701.      Is it a 2012?     Model    ES75VSNH1.      not sure what the  means VS  means?    I know the 1 means good quality, NH means nickel hardware

    NH does not mean Nickel Hardware.  N is for nickel hardware, H is for a stop tail.  I'm guessing the H is literally for hardtail.

  3. On 6/7/2020 at 7:47 PM, derek R said:

    I was going to post this in the thread about figuring,the figuring on this guitar is almost holographic,photos don’t do it justice.

    I have posted this guitar before,but it’s a Gibson so I’ve no problems posting it again.

    It is hard to describe, but I know exactly what you are talking about.    I have a cherry Lucille and even though it is spec'd as having a plain top, it does have some more subtle figuring in it.  And it is almost 3-dimensional looking.  I describe it as looking jewel-like, or glowing embers.  So I understand your holographic description.  Almost impossible to get in a photo.  Here's a studio shot that does show the figuring, but not the "effect".



  4. More specifically, it is not the wood grain, but the type of wood grain.  You can still see the wood grain in "plain" tops.  But "figured/flame" type have a distinctive  pattern in the wood generally running 90 deg in the direction of the regular wood grain.  More distinctive, generally more desirable, and more expensive.    It is a characteristic of wood, regardless if it laminate or solid.

    The following is a pretty exact comparison.  Faded light burst, and Figured Faded light burst.



    • Like 3

  5. On 4/18/2020 at 3:45 PM, Same Guy said:


    I felt the exact opposite. I bought my 2015 LP Special Double Cut precisely because I did love the sound of the alnico slug P90's..

    Well, that, and the light weight of this one.

    (And the blow-out price didn't hurt, either!)


    Likewise here.  When I had the chance to buy new 2015 Junior and Special DC each at sub $500 prices, I bought one of ea. (especially coming with hard anniversary cases).  Both are great, and I think the Special with the 2 pups may be more versatile.  But I really prefer the Junior for it's raw simplicity.  It is a whole different guitar than a regular 2 humbucker LP.    The Junior is in a league of its own.   The lone volume control gives an amazing range of sound. 





  6. 23 hours ago, Sgt. Pepper said:

    How hard is it to get a real serial number and re-use it (cause that is what they do). Then when you run it, it comes back as a legit number. Serial number is not the be all do all to determine if real or fake. The Chinese are sneaky.

    That is a good point and should be considered.  But the s/n (both the number itself and how it appears) is a good starting point for authentication.   Not the end, but the beginning.  That is a process of elimination, and often will reveal that it is not legit, case closed.  No need to scrutinize further.  If the s/n passes muster, then go into the other details.

    I'm not under the impressing that the cheap Chinese knock offs you see are being faked to the degree of having authentic s/n.  Nor are all the details that exact.  I don't think they intend to need close scrutiny.    I don't think it has really been that long that the Chinese have been mass producing the knock offs.   Before the internet, I'd think that all fakes were "hand made" modifications of existing guitars.

  7. 2 hours ago, IanHenry said:

    There are many knowledgeable members on here who, I'm sure will help you but I'm pretty sure they will need more detailed photo's.  Don't disclose the serial numbers publicly on here but it will be well worth contacting Gibson service with them, they are usually very helpful.

    Good luck 

    There is no good reason not to post the s/ns other that to hid a fake.  Quite the contrary, posting a pic of the s/n can help authentic it or show that it is a fake.  I say a pic because actually seeing the s/n cab be most helpful.  A lot more so than just posting the numbers.

    And if the op wants to cut to the chase, call or write Gibson with the s/ns and they will tell you what it is.  If they are legit.

  8. On 5/22/2020 at 12:58 PM, Sgt. Pepper said:

    That is a great idea, but with the worlds current situation it my take about 3 years to get back and what is something like that going to cost from Gibson. Neck resets on guitars (mostly done on acoustics) are $3 to 500, and that is just to reset a neck that is in playable condition where the angle is now off due to age, and that just being the nature of the beast of owning an acoustic . He will also need to pony up for the price of a new neck (not sure what that would be), plus any re-finish work that needs to be done, and shipping, and he wants a fret job (doesn't need to be performed by Gibson). Then he will have a 1976 Gibson ES-335 with a neck that will have different serial number.  If you bought it and it was not disclosed it had a twisted neck  and they knew that prior, I would get back with whoever sold it and put a claim in if you can. If you can't looks like sadly someone dumped a lemon on you.


    Another thing with a new neck.  With all due respect,  Larsongs , even if it is a "good one" or  "the one" (a valid and good point), I think a new neck can have an appreciable effect on it being a "good one" to the point of it possibly not being as good with a replaced neck.  I think that is a risk to consider, too.

  9. 9 hours ago, dreamingGibson said:


    I actually like both reds you posted.. I stand by my preference that an ES looks soooo goood in Cherry Red than any other color.. although its strange to see a Lucille in a different color other than black and gold. LOL. but its a nice one! how does yours play? I actually want to get the Epiphone version of it..

    On the 64, I see that the string alignment is also not centered and leaning towards the treble side.. Im guessing thats more expensive than my 330 VOS.. im sensing that this is quite a normal thing for Gibsons and having strings centered on the fretboard is a lucky one.. LOL



    And that non-centered '64 RI shot is a studio pic! 

    Actually, mine is quite centered:



    The Lucille is amazing.  When you open the case, it looks like a jewel laying there.  Feels great, plays great.  It is hard not to be totally impressed with it.  But here is the best kept secret about it:  It is a high gain rock machine.  ES models, though used for hard rock even, have limitations due to feedback at high volume and gain.  But with the lack of F-holes and even the choice of pups lets this really come alive at those ES forbidden levels.  Sure, we obviously think of it as a blues guitar.  But crank it up to 11 and you'll see it go where no other ES model can go.  

    Can't say how the EPI model would be, but I think it would be decent.  I would never have bought a Gibson one, but I got mine at a mind-numbing price brand new from the CMI blowout years ago.

  10. 15 hours ago, dreamingGibson said:

    thank you sir,

    it is very hard to photograph! Well, the red is the perfect shade of red that I love on ES-3xx guitars. And the only other color I want on an ES is black. 

    the wood grain is visible, but the wood itself isn’t crazy figured. You can see some grains but its Kind of plain looking, which is fine by me. Not really looking to get that crazy grains you can see on vintage ES-3xx guitars. Maybe when its older and the color is fading, the grains would pop more!

    The top wood for that guitar is called "plain" as opposed to figured, so you will generally see no figuring there.  There are other cherry finishes that are much more transparent and show their beautiful plain tops more easily.  Like my avitar pic guitar, a 2016 '64 ES-345 reissue (using a stock shot for clarity):


    That is a different cherry ("sixties cherry") and a different finish  (VOS)

    I think my 2016 Lucille has the same Cherry color and finish as yours.  I think it is less transparent.  It does have subtle figuring in the wood, though it is not spec'd as a figured top.  Much harder see from a distance and even harder to photograph.  In person it looks like glowing embers. 

    Again, a stock photo for clarity.  But like you say, even the stock photos don't bring out all of the beauty.



  11. On 5/17/2020 at 5:51 AM, sparquelito said:

    The 'MS' prefix is worrisome, for sure. 

    I have never heard of such a thing. 

    Nor has Gibson, apparently. 


    There are various s/ns that are not covered by that number search (like ME and some of the reissues), so that doesn't mean Gibson never heard of it or it is not legit.  Will take some investigation.  I would start by calling or writing Gibson and go from there.

  12. You said it is a great guitar.  Isn't that what it is all about?  Is this really that important?  It appears to me that everything should be able to be touched up.  I would never ever return a "good one" like you say you have for insignificant cosmetics.  But that is not a typical forum response.  Play that bad boy and stop being distracted by the little things, including forum grumblings.

    • Like 1

  13. I think it is a shame that it is "killing" you.  It looks great.  Personally, I think it gives it a very subtle unusual touch.  I would hate to be that sensitive to something that is insignificantly cosmetic.   I think you would be doing yourself a huge favor if you could learn to ignore all the forum hype on cosmetics, and just dig in and enjoy playing it as intended.   Cosmetics are a never ending diversion that can only get in your way, drive you crazy, and keep you from playing and enjoying.  

    • Like 1

  14. I'd contact Gibson.  They will still have the specs on it regardless of origin.  But Gibson is becoming less and less forthcoming with the amount of detail in the specs they give, onsite and otherwise.  So you still may not get that level of detail, but I'd still ask.

    Edit: posted same time as answer

  15. 23 hours ago, Sgt. Pepper said:

    You get at new guitar in that condition, and a case that looked like United Airway best baggage handlers dragged it down the run way for half a mile, and you would be p!ssed to. Stop with the lecture of chest beating ect.


    Just because you don't agree with me (which I couldn't care less about),  I'm no less entitled to my POV here than you are, so stop trying to dictate what others say.  

  16. All Memphis ES guitars should have come with COAs.  Thus the OP question of what they are doing now that they are made in Nashville.

    The answer from Gibson, though not as complete as it could be, pretty much confirms what I said in my last post.  The Gibson USA ES models will not have them.  No regular Gibson USA model come with them.  Presume Gibson Custom Shop models will continue to have them same as before.

    • Like 1

  17. If you insist, as is your right for it to be flawless, then by all means send it back.  Done, end of story.  But It look like you're will to consider options.

    I would think this should be about what you end up with, not what you start with. Once again, the knee-jerk chest beating "I'm offended, send it back!" reaction may not be the best in the long run.  ALWAYS, the first thing I would do is determine whether it is a "good one" or not.  Play it, and objectively evaluate it.  What I would do would totally depend on this.  It may actually be a great one, but so far it appears you're not past the obvious flaws.   If it is a good one and the fretboard would  clean up and you could live with the dings for the right price, then start to think of what deal would be acceptable to you.  If it is not a good one, great!  You have perfect reasons to send it back.

    That case design should never had made it to production.  Another "What were they thinking moment".  As much as I really like to have original cases, I would get another case for it regardless.   So depending on what your feelings are on the case, negotiate accordingly.  I doubt they would give you another case in any kind of a deal, so that may not be an option.

    The typical forum responses reveal that getting a cosmetically perfect guitar is far more important than getting a "good one".  But that's not me.

    And to anyone who doesn't know what a "good one" is or means, I respectfully suggest they find out before they go guitar shopping.  Unless they are buying it just to look at it..


    • Sad 1
  • Create New...