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About mz-s

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  1. On my J-15, it's almost a toss up between DR Sunbeams 12's or Gibson Masterbuilt Phosphor Bronze 12's as far as best sound. Slightest edge given to the Gibson strings. For a longer lasting string I settle with Elixir Nanoweb Phosphor Bronze 12's. Sound is almost there.
  2. Can't say that I blame them for not being willing to put in an aftermarket pickup at no cost, it's not their fault the guitar had an issue that warranted replacement. However I think you could make a case that the warranty you purchased should cover the work since the Hummingbird that you returned had that installed. I do disagree with the model that some of these stores have - if you didn't spend extra on the warranty, there's the door. Trying in store is nice but these stores are making the decision to buy online for us it seems.
  3. Almost like the crack was already there when they built the guitar, they just didn't notice them. Strange for sure. They would have had to have been there right, certainly the finish would have cracked with the wood if the cracks appeared later.
  4. I am talking with no law training here, just some brief sales tax training as I used to work for a small internet commerce company. But the Constitution prohibits states from regulating interstate commerce, that is left to the Federal Government. And until this decision, my understanding is there have been no Federal regulations or laws saying that state and local sales tax must be collected on sales that take place between a company and an end user that each have nexus in different states. States can require residents to pay those taxes on their returns, most states have that line on
  5. If you take the existing one to Fastenal or a local hardware store, they should be able to find you the right size. Might not be black though!
  6. Looks like a well done repair. I'd go for it, after seeing it in person of course to make sure everything is on the up and up. As others have said, glue joints are stronger than the wood around them.
  7. Certainly possible, but if this is a "hill" in the top so to speak, I doubt it's runout.
  8. There shouldn't be a seam there, it doesn't look like a run in the finish (though I suppose it could be). It looks almost like bulging from a loose brace under string tension, but the fact that the line is so straight is strange. Assuming you bought it new or otherwise have a return period, I'd get it swapped out. Could be shipping damage.
  9. He did have some excellent videos, I loved his series on DIY repairs with tools you can buy at Harbor Freight. So many repair guides on YouTube assume a $500 investment in StewMac tools that ain't happening for me! I am fairly sure he had a bit of a breakdown. I saw one of his videos making fun of other guitar channel owners, then a few days later his channel was gone. Not a trace anywhere. I wish I knew how to get in touch with him, I really enjoyed his videos and perspective on guitars.
  10. What about the bone pins don't fit right? Too loose or too tight? If they're too tight, sand them down. Most natural material products like saddles, nuts, and bridge pins, come oversized so they can be sanded down to fit perfectly. They use plastic pins as bridge pins make very little, if any, difference in the tone of a guitar.
  11. All the Texans I've seen have bone saddles already. I buy my saddles from eBay or Amazon - really the most important aspects are the compensation, length and the radius. Make sure the radius is the same, and that the length is as least as long as your slot, and the compensation design matches your current saddle. The thickness, length, and height, can be adjusted with sandpaper on a thick sheet of glass or something (so it's flat).
  12. Small turns are your friend. As others have said truss rod adjusts relief, not so much action. But it will affect action towards the middle of the neck. I measure relief by fretting first and 14/15th frets, then seeing how much space is between low E string and the 7th fret. You want a small amount of relief, enough to fit a few sheets of paper under the string - 10 thousandths or so, or less. No space means the neck is either perfectly flat, or is backbowed. 1/8th a turn at a time until you get it where you want. 1/4 is a big adjustment. 1/2 a turn is a huge amount. It will take a bit of
  13. I've used acetylene torch tip cleaning files from Home Depot for deepening already cut slots. They're $3 a pack I believe and work well for this use. The files have a very gentle cut, so it would take forever to cut a new slot with them. In that case I would spring for the StewMac files, or maybe carefully use a 10-thousandths kerf razor saw. You can roll the saw back and forth while cutting to widen and round out the slot.
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