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About JimR56

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  1. JimR56

    1976 ES-345 knobs

    Well, the earlier types from the 1940's and '50's are pretty well-documented. I wish I had details in terms of the 1970's era, but I don't. I would suggest that some extensive searching online might gradually reveal patterns that you can trace. Try google searches using different terms, and be persistent. There will be many exceptions and odd cases where you'll encounter instruments with knobs that were likely replaced, but if you look at enough examples, you should be able to get some idea of what types were in use on different models through a sequence of years. In addition to searching on google for images and info (and don't forget about guitar discussion forums, where this may have been discussed in detail before), you can also through sites like ebay, reverb.com, and gbase.com. You can search the inventory lists of dozens of online guitar dealers.
  2. JimR56

    1976 ES-345 knobs

    Here's a 1978 catalog (showing an ES 345), for reference: https://acousticmusic.org/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Gibson-1978-Electrics.pdf
  3. JimR56

    1976 ES-345 knobs

    I never paid a lot of attention to 70's specs over the years, as I wasn't very interested in Norlin era guitars. I've seen plenty, though. First of all, it would help to know more about your motivation. The reason I ask is that historically, witch hat knobs were never too popular aesthetically. Probably because they came along at time (late 60's) when Gibson was beginning to go downhill in some respects. In other words, most desirable vintage guitars had earlier style knobs of some type. So, I've seen a lot of 70's guitars with replaced knobs, as is the case with your 345. Now, if you're seeking witch hats primarily to keep the guitar more "original", I'd say that might not be worth the trouble. On the other hand, if you prefer the look of witch hats, then by all means go for those. I did some research online, looking at photos, old catalogs, and forum discussions. Some people say that by the mid-70's, Gibson was no longer consistently using witch hats. This kind of jibes with my own memories of seeing various 70's models over the years, and yet most photos and catalogs seem to show many 70's models with witch hats. So it's all a little uncertain. Anyway, if you like them, they're not going to look "wrong" on a 1976 345. As you probably already know, the volume knob should just say "Vol." on the top, not "Volume". One other fine point I would suggest is that witch hats should be tapered. In other words, when viewed from the side, they should be wider at the bottom and narrower at the top. This taper should be more obvious than what you would typically see on a early-to-mid 60's reflector cap knob. When viewed from the top, the round reflective surface on a witch hat should therefore look smaller than the round surface of a reflector cap knob. I could be wrong in terms of how they evolved from 1967 to 1976 and beyond, but this is how I remember them. Finally, most original witch hat knobs appear less shiny than a repro will look. Not only the black plastic, but the top surface will generally look a bit aged on originals. The fact that the sides were grooved rather than smooth also made them more prone to wear (cuts, dents, scratches), so you could look for things like that in terms of shopping for original-looking examples. In the Reverb item you linked, I'm not seeing the tapering I would expect, and they almost look too clean. But they're not bad looking knobs. I have no idea what sort of prices you should expect, so you're on your own to research that. Hope this helps, and I'm open to anybody correcting me on any points I may have wrong.
  4. Red finishes are known to fade over time, proportional to exposure to sun/light. So I'd say it's likely that the lighter area has faded, while the central area that was under the pad for all those years has remained closer to the original finish color. However, the unevenness of the discoloration within the darker area makes me wonder if there isn't also something else going on there. I guess it might have been helpful if you were told more about the pad and how it was applied (and possibly how it was removed).
  5. More discussions... https://forum.gibson.com/topic/116320-model-number-decoder/ https://www.mylespaul.com/threads/model-numbers-explained.28540/ a "3" can apparently indicate a "special run", or limited run, I guess.
  6. More info here: https://forum.gibson.com/topic/91925-interpreting-les-paul-model-numbers/ The "3" at the end apparently indicates the "third run" of that particular model. As an old school Gibson guy for over 40 years, I have to say that (especially after reading through the thread I just linked here) I find all these model codes kind of ridiculous. If letters weren't being duplicated with different meanings, I might feel less so, but it's still pretty confusing.
  7. This is a little puzzling, and I know little about modern Les Pauls. I tried a couple of web searches, and so far only found this: https://www.lespaulforum.com/forum/showthread.php?147863-Does-anyone-know-how-to-read-Model-Number-Coding The "+" is supposed to indicate a "plus" (more flamed) top. The "S" (if it's indeed and "S" and not a "5"), sometimes indicates sunburst, but that would seem redundant considering the "IT" lettering for iced tea, which is a burst shade. I have also seen "S" indicating a "satin" finish. Still not sure what a "K" might indicate ("Koa" is the only guitar-related thing that's coming to mind), or the "3" at the end. Brain teasers are fun, though. Hopefully somebody else chimes in with ideas.
  8. Thanks for the update! Looks lovely to me. Enjoy it, Filbert.
  9. 2532 stamped on the back of the headstock likely indicates 1961. A 1959 example would not have a serial number stamped on the headstock, but rather a Factory Order Number stamped inside the body. More info here: http://www.guitarhq.com/gibson.html#serial If you can, please post some photos.
  10. "Norlin". Sometimes those 70's sunbursts used to be referred to as the "guitar pick sunburst", due to the shape of the lighter colored area (especially viewed from the back). Sunbursts had more gradual shading and subtlety before that. I'm not a fan of Gibsons of that era, but the model is a stone cold classic. The most popular Gibson model of all time, it is said.
  11. The headstock inlay is generally referred to in the trade (and in reference books by Gruhn, Duchossoir and others) as the "crown" inlay. I'm not sure what you meant by "cutouts". Perhaps you were talking about the "cutaways"? I agree that the seller ought to be reported.
  12. For starters, the model being faked here is an ES-345, not an ES-335. At least you were able to detect some of the red flags. Beyond that, I would just urge everybody to study and learn the basics as well as the fine details about Gibson instruments first, before they think about buying one.
  13. I would check ebay for auction prices. You can also look on Reverb.com and Gbase.com to look for asking prices. You could try selling it on any of the above sites, or you could sell it in your local area on Craigslist; or, you could consign it to a local guitar shop. There are also some guitar discussion forums that include a section for selling or trading with other members.
  14. I agree with you, Nick. I noticed (again) right after I posted that the '48 FON range apparently overlaps the '49 range. I thought about editing my post to indicate that, and then I said to myself... "does it really matter?" (1948 vs 1949). Certainly not in terms of collectibility or value. I checked the orange Duchossoir book, and he indicates a few more details about late-40's FONs: 1. Lower grade models (including the ES-125) usually do not show any FONs until 1949. 2. Guitars from 1947 to the early part of 1949 which do have FONs included a hyphen between the 4-digit number and the 1- or 2-digit suffix. 3. Some time after early 1949, a more consistent numbering system began, without the hyphens. So, these details would seem to point to 1949. And thanks for prompting me to seek more details. It's always good to keep refreshing the memory on these things, even though I'm sure I'll have to consult the book again the next time the same question arises. 😀
  15. http://www.guitarhq.com/gibson.html#serial 1949. Gibson Factory Order Numbers, 1942 to 1951. Serial numbers are seldom found on instruments made during WW2, but most (not all) have Factory Order Numbers (FON). These contain a four digit batch number stamped in ink, followed by a two digit sequence number written in red pencil (during WW2 only). After the war, the red pencil wasn't used (and on instruments made during the war, sometimes it's really hard to see the red penciled sequence number). Usually there is no more than 46 instruments (sequence numbers) per batch. Also no batch number with a "1" as the first digit was used during WW2. Year Factory Order Number ---- -------------------- 1941 G (letter code sometimes seen after FON, i.e. 2586G). 1942 907, 910, 923, 2004, 2005, 7000ish (i.e. 7119) - all 'Banner' logo. 1942 H (letter code sometimes seen after FON, i.e. 7116H). Range 5xxxH to 8xxxH 1943 Range generally 9xx to 22xx, depending on the model. 1944 Range generally 22xx to 29XX, depending on the model, some with no FON. 1945 1xx to 10xx, but many with no FON. 1946 n/a ('Banner' logo no longer used, now script logo with no banner). 1947 700s to 1000s 1948 1100s to 3700s ('Script' logo no longer used, block logo used.) 1949 2000s 1950 3000s to 5000s 1951 6000s to 9000s
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