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generation zero

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About generation zero

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  1. Thanks for the re-welcome guys! Project turned out great animalfarm, looks awesome! I still wear that hat from time to time by the way, though the 20 is long gone, LOL... I've been without interwebs for quite some time, but I'll drop in occasionally now that I have a laptop. Love that free wifi! :)
  2. Good to see you back!!!

  3. Hey guys! I used to post here frequently, but haven't for some time due to lack of web access. However, laptop + wifi = posting, so I'm back, LOL!!!! So, anyway, I'm thinking of picking up a Mandobird VIII, my local music store can get me a factory 2nd for around $200. My questions are as follows... 1. I've heard of the E string volume issue... is this fixable with a new pickup, and if so, what is the best pickup to go with? Any suggestions or links? 2. I've also seen some people having intonation issues with the one piece saddle in the bridge. I noticed the 4 string model has individual saddles... If I go with the VIII, how difficult is it to find a replacement bridge with individual saddles if I end up needing it? I saw one guy mentioned using Fender strat XII parts, but he didn't go into much detail. Any MB VIII owners willing to offer intonation insight, I would appreciate it. 3. Regarding the case, I know it comes with a bag. Is it possible to get an Epi hard case for it, or will I have to have something made? Again, any suggestions or links? I plan to gig with it, using it on the REM song Losing My Religion. I'd hate to have to transport it in a bag with the rest of my gear in hard cases. I know $200 is a decent price, they seem to go for $250 pretty much everywhere, and I don't mind the 2nd thing. A few scratches or blemishes in the finish don't bother me. I just want to play a mandolin through my Mesa, and I figure this is the best way to go. But with pickup, bridge, and case replacements, a $200 purchase can end up costing me double that, or more... I'd like some input from you guys if possible! Thanks!
  4. I had a similar take on this thought... I used to play through a Behringer V-Amp (in parallel to a bass V-Amp, runing one on the Mesa model and one on the Marshall model, emulating the way a Line 6 Vetta will allow you to run two amp models in parallel) into a power amp pushing two 4x12 Behringer cabinets. All said and done, it was about a $900 rig. I was able to get pretty decent tones from it, considering what it was... and through that rig, my stock Epi pickups were perfectly acceptable. When I decided to upgrade to a real Mesa Dual Rectifier and matching Mesa 4x12 cabinet, I immediately noticed how much clearer and "real" sounding the amp was. The second thing I noticed was that I was no longer happy with the pickups in my Epi. I swapped them out for Duncans, and that was better, by a large degree. Changing my cords from the cheap Live Wire cables I was using to the top of the line, $56 per 25 footer Mogami cables also made a huge difference in my tone. Then ,when I got a Gibson Les Paul Studio, it sounded even better than the upgraded Epi. The funny thing was that through the Behringer rig, the Epi pretty much sounded identical to the Gibson, as did my other guitarist's Schechter C1+. The high dollar cords also didn't make much (if any) difference through the low end modelling amp setup either. I guess my final point on the matter is that before you run out and spend hundreds of dollars on a set of new pickups and pots and wiring and all that mumbo-jumbo, you may want to consider saving for a decent tube amp to replace the little modelling practice amp. Or, if the practice amp is the best your situation requires, (i.e. apartment dwelling, non-gigging guitarists, for instance,) perhaps save the money on expensive upgrades and just buy another guitar. I can almost guarantee that through any sort of digital solid state "tube modelling" amp, you will hear more tonal difference between a stock epi les paul and a stock epi dot than you will between a stock epi les paul and the same les paul with $300 worth of upgraded pups, pots, caps, and wires in it. Not to mention, a different style guitar may inspire you to write or play differently. New guitars always provide me with fresh inspiration, far moreso than swapping pickups in an existing guitar.
  5. Probably because most Fender finishes (solid colors at least) can be matched with a steady hand and a can of Krylon?
  6. If you do, let us know how the effects sound... I'm curious as to the quality. Also, what brand is it?
  7. As far as the locks go, I always try to match the rest of the hardware on the guitar. I think mismatched hardware makes a guitar look pieced together, IMO. If the guitar has gold hardware, go with gold straplocks. Or, if you want to stay subtle, get a set in gold and put the buttons on the guitar, and then get a set in black for the strap parts. That way the guitar matches, but the strap doesn't have a chunk of fort Knox on either end, LOL.
  8. Not big on SGs in general, but I am anxiously awaiting the chance to play one of the Pauls in person. I'm pretty much set on either the blue/silverburst, or the natural. Preferably in a gloss finish if that's an potionl which I think it is on some finishes. I want chrome hardware, too. I just hope the chambering doesn't make it feel too hollow for my tastes, that would be the only forseeable deal breaker. Well, that and I'm broke, LOL.
  9. +1 for replace and save the old stuff. The Seymour Duncan 59s I put in my PRS copy have already started to lose the gold plating, and it's only been a few months. I'm with you on liking to keep guitars looking nice... That's why I run from gold hardware whenever I can. I like the look, but it always seems to get all pitted and nasty looking so fast. I'm thinking about contacting SD about the pups, but I don't expect any effort to replace them... I think the warranty states it does not cover finish. Lame.
  10. It's on the Gibson main page I think, if not just pull up the Les Paul page and it should be there. I haven't looked into it though, what's different about it besides the knobs? I noticed it had regular knobs instead of the wooden ones...
  11. You need to buy a speaker cable... an instrument cable will technically work, but I don't know what the drawbacks are of using it... I know instrument cables are shielded, where speaker cables are not. Also, speaker cables are generally thicker gauge wire than instrument cables. Don't buy one any longer than you need, either... the longer the cable, the more it sucks out of your tone. Excessively long cables will change the impedance of the speaker even, sometimes enough to have adverse effects on the amp. You'd probably be fine with something in the 1 to 3 foot range, I doubt you'd need to go longer than that.
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