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Dub-T-123

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Dub-T-123 last won the day on July 5

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  1. No problem and FYI serial number and warranty papers are not in any way helpful for determining authenticity
  2. The whole thing just does not have the right shapes or curves but it’s a little harder for me to “convince” someone of that based on these pics. For someone who owns an SG and plays it a lot this thing looks weird right out the gate As others have mentioned, the block inlays and first fret inlay are not correct for the SG standard. Headstock shape, truss rod cover, and logo are also all wrong. Look at the way the pickups are sitting on that sad pickguard These are bad pics but just look at the nut, frets, and fret ends. The nut is a joke, the frets look skinny, and it looks like they just cut the fret end short of the binding. An Epiphone will absolutely smoke this thing in terms of quality and playability the finish looks more like an opaque red paint than a “heritage cherry” finish Whether you agree with any of the above or not, slotted bridge posts are an indisputable smoking gun that this is fake. Even compared to other fakes this thing looks pathetic. I would guess it is basically unplayable. If there is any decent quality to it, it was an accident
  3. Do not buy this. It is counterfeit. Don’t worry about the serial number when evaluating the legitimacy of a guitar. The counterfeiters use real serial numbers, it is not difficult to look at a real guitar and then print the same number on a fake one. There are a lot of giveaways here if you’re familiar with Gibson SGs. I can elaborate on why it’s fake if you want but in the meantime avoid this seller
  4. Computer wisdom from Whitefang… good lord
  5. The serial number was ink stamped on this model and has been mostly wiped off on this guitar. You can still see that the first two numbers appear to be “01”, so this would be a 2001 Classic
  6. Dub-T-123

    Adam

    Is it a “dark back” or just the light brown natural color? At any rate you’re probably going to achieve the look with pore filler and possibly a slightly tinted lacquer rather than stain. I doubt it’s even a tinted lacquer really
  7. When I bought my first Gibson in 2006 the prices were about the same as what they are now. For the past couple years the LP Standard for example has been more affordable than I’ve ever seen, now we are sorta returning back to “normal”
  8. Not sure what they’re using on modern P90 guitars but almost certainly 500K as well. fwiw, while researching for my Jr build, it seems that if you were to open up a 50s Les Paul Jr it would typically have 500K volume and 250K tone
  9. Dub-T-123

    NGD

    Congrats jdgm!! Really interesting guitar Does it fit into a Les Paul case? The repositioned controls and black paint make it hard for me to tell how closely the body shape matches the LP
  10. Are you saying some of the inlay dots are more clear colored or that there is literally an unfilled hole? Reason I ask is that my 59 LP reissue has kindof a plastic tortoiseshell looking material used for the side dots and some are more transparent than others. I think it is a super cool looking detail if that’s what you’re talking about. If you could post a pic I’m sure that would clear up any confusion. Not aware of any members here who own that guitar off the top of my head
  11. I’m surprised nobody has mentioned but in the pics the only important thing that stands out is that this guitar is in need of a fret leveling, crowning, and polishing. The cosmetic issues are not a big deal, but the guitar will not play nicely with the frets in that condition. As a small tip, once the frets are made right, make sure to only use the minimum amount of pressure needed with your fretting hand. It is apparent that your dad was pushing way too hard, which is common when switching from a cheaper guitar to a nicer guitar. Just remember pushing harder won’t make anything sound better but it will bend the intended notes sharp, damage the frets, and slow down your playing
  12. That’s a good attitude. Keep playing!
  13. In other words it should have a normal bridge
  14. My friend has one and I’m not a fan. It feels ok, but eliminates the possibility of using bends or vibrato. So it sounds really “stiff” which can be interesting for certain styles but overall I think it’s a big limitation. On a normal guitar I can play as stiff as I want but on the evertune I can’t move or shake any notes around. I think it’s an interesting contraption mechanically but as RCT alluded it’s sortof solving a non-issue while losing a ton of potential from the instrument
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