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Dub-T-123 last won the day on August 15

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About Dub-T-123

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  1. After converting that to inches I agree. 43mm is the perfect size. That is pretty much exactly the same as what you’ll find on a typical new Gibson as well. The late 60s SGs had a particularly narrow nut width. The new ones are not like that. You could easily get a really nice new SG for under $2,500 with a more practical neck
  2. Thanks man! It looks amazing in person. Gibson really nailed it with this one
  3. That is amazing footage and I had no idea that an atomic bomb could even be launched from the land like that. Imagine how stressful it is being in the vicinity of that shell...
  4. Not surprising. Personally I’d rather have an LP Studio than a custom shop Strat
  5. So the finish work is sloppy but the scratch is too fine for you to show in a pic.. I have a feeling anything you do to try to remove the scratches won’t be so difficult to see...
  6. There are some people who really put a lot of thought and money into using the correct materials for the hardware on their gibson. from what I understand the classic recipe is basically - lightweight aluminum tailpiece steel tailpiece studs zamak no wire ABR-1 with large brass saddles brass bridge studs and thumb wheels If you have all the correct parts in place, the resonant frequency of the guitar should be closer to that of its vintage original equivalent It would be awesome if Gibson made an exact reissue of the bridge hardware just like they did with the plastics on the Historic series
  7. Dub-T-123


    Nice man!! Is it front, rear, or all wheel drive?
  8. Dub-T-123


    I don’t think we get that brand over here in America. I have no clue what kind of car that is!! The front end looks similar to a newer Volkswagen and the rear looks similar to a Subaru. Nice looking car. Hope it treats you well
  9. I’ve actually been interested in getting old bridges like the one in this video since I saw it. Just don’t want to pay $1,000 for a bridge.. At least in this video the old bridge seems to sound better to me https://youtu.be/d8NWQSjHQHs
  10. The bleeding is a “historic” feature, not necessarily VOS. It would be present on the gloss version as well I can’t see the scratches in the pics
  11. The finish bleeding onto the binding is an intentional feature of the historic guitars. If you don’t like the VOS you can get the gloss version. If you aren’t happy I would suggest returning it. I can’t see the scratches in the pictures though
  12. I’ve got awesome tools for sanding. I am adept in the ways of abrasion 😛 So I actually do already have all of the files needed for fret and nut setup work. Gotta get a radius beam and I’d like to get a nice little deadblow for fretting. I have all kinds of routers and bits and dremels but may get a router base for the dremel. At this stage I’m not a big fan of the dremel but maybe it will change my mind with a router base and decent bit? I’m inclined to think that anything a dremel with router base would work for, my little Makita router would be better. But it has a 1/4” collet so I dunno I’d have to look for what bits I can get first. I am just doing dot inlays and probably a decal on this so won’t need to worry about that anyways The piece of mahogany I found at the shop today could probably make 6 or 7 one piece bodies Merciful I am very interested in the CNC as well but I’d like to do first learn how to do it the old fashioned way.
  13. Thanks guys! I want to reply more specifically but I’m at work right now. But this morning I stopped by the shop and claimed a giant piece of hog. Looks like African hog but will be very nice for a first try
  14. Probably mostly questions for Rabs here but if there are other luthiers I’d love to hear from you too. I am planning on building my first guitar from scratch and as you may know I have basically unlimited access to a fully stocked work shop. So all of my really expensive luxurious tool needs like large planer, bandsaw, spindle sander, etc are already taken care of. We even have CNCs but that’s not in my plans at this point. I’m trying to make a list of those luthiery-specific tools that I will want which we won’t already have in the shop. Mainly things related to fretting, templates, scrapers, radius blocks, jigs, things of that nature I am looking to make as many of the jigs or tools myself where possible My idea at this point is to make basically a traditional 50s style double cut Jr. Sorry to copy your vibe with the double cut thing Rabs that type of guitar just ticks off all the boxes for what I want to do here I’ve got lots of mahogany, maple, walnut, alder, poplar, white oak, etc but no rosewood or ebony. I will want to buy some rosewood blanks not sure if I want to go pre slotted or slot them myself. I am attracted to the challenge of slotting it myself but that would involve buying some tools which might be impractical to consider for the first build depending on cost Well I feel like I could speculate and ramble forever but I’d like to hear a little advice from somebody who’s done it already Any special tools that you find indispensable? Recommended books or resources? thanks in advance. I’m really excited to get going
  15. I doubt that Gibson makes two versions of this case for Standards/Customs or Specials/Jrs. I’m probably going to add more confusion because it seems that we may be talking about two or maybe three different cases here... From what I can tell, the OP and I are talking about the cases included with our brand new 2020 Historic Les Pauls. I don’t know the manufacturer of my case but the tag says made in Costa Rica. The lining is a light pink color Then we see Fran’s case which has a vivid fuchsia colored lining. I believe this case is also made in Costa Rica but is slightly different. I have seen listings for older Historic Gibsons where they claim that this is the better version of the Costa Rican case. Then we have the old TKL cases which were made in Canada. I don’t know about TKL having ever made the “lifton” style case but their Gibson USA cases were nice. At any rate I think it’s safe for you guys to assume that the lifton style cases are not designed to be highly protective and safe for your guitar
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