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  1. Nice work-- Did the plugged holes from the Rotomatics line up with the new one required for the Deluxe and you just plugged for a fresh start or was the new hole on body side located slightly differently, forcing you to plug?
  2. Sorry about your father - time takes all of us but Alzheimer's is a particularly tough one, saw it with my own mother. Anyway, you can check pricing generally for most used models at Reverb.com. Take a look at this (just did a quick search for you, the results are here: https://reverb.com/marketplace?query=CS-336). Of course, asking price and selling price usually are not the same so if you check the sold listings only, the average price is at the lower end of the range quoted here. Anyway, that's how I get a sense of the price when I buy/sell. I have a 2006 356 which is one of my favorite guitars, so you should be able to sell yours easily if that is the route you decide. Good luck.
  3. My 335 from the 90s (can't remember exactly, would have to look it up), is 7lbs 14oz. Lighter than most it seems but noticeably heavier than my 339 and my CS-356.
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  5. For closure here -- HD never had the part I needed despite it showing on their site so I popped in to local shop on way home and got nut/washer for 50c. Guy there also reckoned it unlikely HD would have the size but I'm not sure it's that unusual - seems to be regular thin half-inch hex nut with 3/8" thread. I'll check this if I get a chance.
  6. I did a rough measurement and suspect it's just a 3/8" flat nut which should be available anywhere. I'll run to Home Depot and if that fails, off to a guitar store tomorrow. How to frustrate new guitar day! I'll report back if it works just to have a record of it here.
  7. Hello folks -- am sure others may have asked this but my best efforts at search have not turned up the answer. Just got a 339 Studio delivered but the input jack was rattling around inside the body. I've managed to get it back into place but the nut for it is missing in action somewhere and needs replacing. Nothing I have to hand seems to fit and I've asked StewMac but they said they can't tell without my measuring it (which I'm not sure I can accurately do without popping the jack back into the hole again after spending my morning fishing it out-- just thought I'd ask here in the hope that it's so bog standard I can find one at the hardware store today. Thanks in advance.
  8. I noticed the 'original' bridge it came with has "Japan" stamped on the underside, so I guess it might not be as original as the previous owner claimed. Anyone know if original Gibson bridges have any special markings? I have a new rosewood bridge on order from UltimateGuitar who apparently have NOS Gibson rosewood bridges but the obsessive part of me wants to know what parts are original. BTW, the GHS cleaner/polish worked to great effect in bringing the top back to life though I was recommended some rubbing compund for the more worn parts. Will try to get some pics posted but I really should have done a before and after - it's quite a transformation.
  9. Perfect -- thanks. I found the Stew Mac site and those files, I think I will invest anyhow and learn how to do this -- that rubber mallet trick is great. I think the tone is a little stifled on my 6th in the upper frets and the guitar chewed up a 3rd string at the first bend so the bridge feels to my hand like it needs a little smoothing anyhow. Gonna get a couple of spare bridges to try this on first and I've found a class on basic set up and adjustment run by a local luthier so I'm gonna learn some of this stuff. Hum..life seemed so much easier with my strat but the old 165 seems to need real attention to get it to sing.
  10. Makes sense -- but that means you DO actually slot them later? Is there some special tool for this or can someone point me to a site with some info on how to do this myself?
  11. Thanks both -- that is most helpful. I've settled on the screws facing in toward neck, looks and sounds better to my ears. However, I think I do want to play around with a new bridge, if only to learn about the sounds this model can make. Also, the current bridge is the most worn part of the guitar. I can do most minor repairs and I understand how to shape the base to the archtop using the sandpaper technique but what I am less clear on is any 'slotting' that might be required of a new wooden saddle -- I assumed I'd let the strings find their natural resting spot but is this not the best way? Should I be creating a small notch for each string based on its size?
  12. Folks --just picked up a used 165 that's from the early 1990s, and was perhaps the most crud-infested guitar I'd ever seen but it had this great feel and response so I've been spending the last few days cleaning it up. Reinstalling the bridge I played around with the saddle screws facing both ways but it's clear the last owner played it with the screws facing the p'up/neck. When I check various pics of other ES-165/175s I notice it both ways so I presume it's more a matter of preference since there seems to be few adjustment advantages either way. But, any input on this issue would be welcome. Other matter - I'm tempted to pick up a wooden bridge to try out so as I can explore tonal possibilities. Anyone have strong view on the advantages or otherwise of the various options here. Stew Mac can provide basic rosewood or ebony, and I know you can find used Gibson bridges out there (at high prices) or genuine Gibson parts but I am not sure any one is better than the other? I am less interested in the issue of original parts for re-sale value than in the quality of parts here, I'll keep the original regardless. Thanks much
  13. I have heard of the 175SP before but there is precious little info around on it. Do you know if the top is built to the early 50s specs or is it thicker like current models? Also, that does not look like a P-90 in it, which apparently is what Gibson told you. How does it sound and play?? enquiring (and envious) minds want to know....
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