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Yorgle

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Yorgle last won the day on March 20 2019

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  1. “Regent” was simply the name used by epiphone to distinguish its archtops with cutaways from full bodied varieties. You can expect lots of deviations in these early Kalamazoo built guitars as Gibson used up the remaining Epiphone parts from Philadelphia. For example, I’ve seen early Windsor and Sorrentos from 59, 60 and 61 some having oval fingerboard inlays and some with just dots. Edit: I seem to recall that the 311 and 312 designations originally represented blond vs sunburst finish. The addition of the “N” to an E311 seems redundant, but it’s just how things were done back then. Adding the N to an E312 is a mystery.
  2. Strings are cheap. Buy a few sets and try them out to see what works best for you.
  3. If you only need to drop the action a few 64ths, you could try using some vintage thumbwheels as they tended to be thinner than the modern ones, but I suspect that you’ll need more adjustment than that. Reducing height at the bridge only lowers the action at the 12th fret by half. Modifying the base or finding some shorter saddles is your best bet.
  4. That’s a 1970s Epiphone neck added to an earlier (but certainly not THAT early) non-Epiphone body.
  5. My daughter has it at college so I rarely get to play it anymore.
  6. It’s likely not that the blue paint that has faded, but rather that the lacquer has yellowed, imparting a green tint to the color underneath.
  7. The new headstock design actually pre-dates the Gibson/Kalamazoo era. My ‘56 arch top was built in New York and it has that same style headstock as did other Epi arch tops as far back as 1939-40.
  8. Isn’t it possible to have just the pots replaced on the board?
  9. You can make a one-time radius block good enough to shape the new inlays by sticking a piece of 220 sandpaper to the fingerboard (between the 1st and 2nd frets) and rubbing a small block of pine or other softer wood back and forth between the frets until the radius is “transferred” to the pine block. The new inlays can then be mostly shaped with the block before they’re installed. Once they’re glued into the fingerboard, razor blade works great to scrape them flush with the surrounding wood.
  10. Looks great. I just finished I laying a vintage pearl Epiphone into my Alleykat’s headstock (it can easily be hidden by the bikini plate logo if I ever want to go back to stock.” The fake block inlays on the neck are next. Where did you get the pearl for your neck?
  11. You have to fish them out through the f-hole. YouTube is full of videos showing various ways to do this.
  12. "Note he did not mention soldering the tabs to the cover, theoretically if you make a good solid contact be the tabs or chassis to the cover the cover would be grounded."-- that's true but only if they are tightened down firmly, which in the case of the metal covers, tends to cause the sharp edges of the covers to dig into the finish. Soldering them is the best way to guarantee a good ground and no vibration, but you'll probably need a 40watt iron- the typical 25watt from Walmart most likely isn't going to work.
  13. The metal covers need to be soldered to the pickup baseplates to be grounded.
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