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Yorgle

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Yorgle last won the day on March 20 2019

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About Yorgle

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  1. Are you planning to paint the top or re-stain it? If you are painting it (to a solid color), all you need to do is lightly sand it with 600-800 grit paper, prime and paint. If you want to re-stain it, that's going to be considerably more difficult because ALL of the existing finish has to be removed before the wood can be re-stained. That requires either sanding, or heat-stripping-- either of which could potentially cause irreversible damage to your instrument if you screw up. As pointed out above, the flamed wood you see now is usually only only a few mils thick and if you sand through it, that spot will show up as a dark blotch once you apply stain. If that happens, your options are to either apply a new veneer, or sand the rest of the flame layer off and hope that the grain of whatever wood is underneath looks good enough to stain. Of course, the other option at that point would be to simply paint it a solid color. If you just want to darken the shade of the cherry burst, e.g., to go from the bright red/yellow to something more like tobacco, you can lightly sand off a few mils of the clear finish (don't go all the way through to the color) and use a dark tinted clearcoat to bring the finish back up. It won't look quite as dark as a true tobacco burst, but it will still look quite nice.
  2. I'm curious what's all wrong with that? To my eye: 1) the neck tenon is both too short and too shallow, and/or possibly even the wrong shape altogether; 2) the obvious router issue for the pickup cavity; and 3) the back of the instrument doesn't appear to even touch the heel block. If it were a vintage instrument, it might be worth taking it apart and fixing it right, but I don't see any practical (i.e., cost effective) way to fix all of that without disassembling most of the guitar. If it were mine, I'd consider just filling the voids with epoxy and calling it good. Let us know what your luthier does with this.
  3. Trust me, I learned the hard way that it’s nearly impossible to sand off the finish to the point where the guitar can be stained without going through the Maple layer in spots because the clear poly actually has soaked into the Maple layer, essentially making the stainable layer paper thin. If ANY poly remains it will not take stain, and you’ll get a splotchy look. But if you keep sanding, you’ll almost certainly sand through in spots (especially on curved areas on arch tops) and not even notice it until you apply the stain. The spots you sanded through will suddenly show up as dark splotches. The only thing you can do when that happens is to paint it with a solid color. That’s how I got my gold top Wildkat!
  4. Beautiful! Looks to be in excellent condition. How well does it play?
  5. What about a Wildkat case? I think the Coupe is about the same size as a Wildkat. My Wildkat measures 13.75” at the lower bout, 10.25” at the upper bout, and the body of the guitar is 17.75” long. Total length from strap button to top of the headstock is just shy of 40”.
  6. Speaking of ebony, all of the literature I've read about AlleyKats says they have rosewood fingerboards, but this one (made in Korea) is definitely ebony.
  7. And here she is as of last night, already with a new ebony bridge and tailpiece...
  8. I finally found an Alleykat in vintage burst on Reverb and pulled the trigger! Here she is unboxed getting to know my Wildkat.
  9. Has anyone here pulled the trigger on a new Uptown Kat? If so, what are your thoughts on it? I'm not overly fond of the solid colors, but he lightness of an ES version (compared to the heaviness of my Wildkat) really tempts me. Had Epiphone included a vintage sunburst or other natural wood finish I'd definitely be moving uptown.
  10. I doubt you are going to find anyone selling just the screws, but if they're as soft as you describe, you can probably straighten them by turning them in and out of a thick metric nut (or a few of them stacked if they're thin). I'd suggest that you also use a nail file or jeweler's file to slightly open up the slots on the bridge.
  11. If you have any toddlers in the house, they like to stuff things into the f-holes.
  12. Ideally, string height (action) should take into account your playing style- if you're a heavy strummin' rhythm sort of guy, or a finger-picker, then you want the action on the high side. If you're into note-by-note melodies halfway up the fingerboard and beyond, lower action is better. Don't be afraid to adjust the bridge height yourself- you can't really break anything. If you want a good starting point, put a capo on the first fret and raise/lower the bridge until you get 4/64ths inch (about the thickness of a quarter) at the 12th fret for the treble E string, and 5/64ths (just a wee-bit thicker than a quarter) for the low E (measuring from the top of the 12th fret to the bottom of each string). If anything buzzes at those settings, then take it to a luthier. 99% of guitars should be able to handle those settings without buzzing.
  13. The bridge actually looks a bit low- if that's where it's set for high action, then the neck angle must be off. The simplest fix here is to simply take out the spacer and sand it down a wee bit- probably only need to take off 1/16" to stop the buzzing. Don't worry about sanding it down too much, because you can always adjust the pickup upward.
  14. Since acquiring my Wildkat several years ago, my LP custom (that I’ve had for over 20 years) hasn’t come out of its case. I can’t say I even miss humbuckers.
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