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Yorgle last won the day on March 20

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About Yorgle

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  1. I hope you used tone epoxy - just kidding. Heel/neck mounted strap buttons are a bad idea on any guitar.
  2. Well done. You made the right choice with the black pickguard on that Elitist- it's a gorgeous instrument!
  3. Pickups rarely die. My bet is that the contacts on either the switch or pickup connectors are corroded. A shot of electrical contact cleaner on the switch and/or connectors should bring it back to life.
  4. I think connectors in general are a good idea. It's nice to be able to completely remove the pickups for polishing or cleaning the instrument, rather than have them dangling around and potentially scratching the finish. Just be sure the connectors are good quality because they have to stay snug in an environment that's designed to vibrate at lots of frequencies.
  5. You first need to ascertain the condition of the neck and frets before you adjust anything, e.g., is the fingerboard bowed or twisted; are the frets (or some of them) excessively worn; are the saddles worn? If you have a true straight edge and an hour or so, you can probably figure out what the issue is. If you can't find what's causing the problem, take the instrument to a luthier. If you can't afford that, you can raise the bridge on the treble side until the buzz goes away (and live with the higher action). But whatever you do, don't give into the temptation to simply hammer or file the 18th fret lower because you'll find that now the 19th fret buzzes, then the 20th, and so on. Been there, done that...
  6. I'd try changing out the tone capacitor before spending $$$ on pickups. For whatever reason, 99% of guitars have either .22 or .47 uF tone caps regardless of pickups. I've found that you can use much lower value caps to really brighten things up and give your tone pot more effect. I've got a 6800 pF in my Wildkat and I love it.
  7. You don't turn the rod, itself. There's a metal washer deep in the hole that the nut rides up against to pull the neck straight. If the nut is coming off the rod, that means it's as loose as it gets, and normally in that situation, string tension will pull the neck into a high relief (up-bow) state. If not, then your neck may have developed the dreaded back-bow. Usually this means pulling out the frets and sanding the fingerboard flat, but here are some things you can try: First, adjust the truss rod nut so that it's completely loose (which you apparently already have done), then turn it clockwise (tighten) back in to the point where it just so touches the washer that's buried up against the back of the neck. Don't tighten it, just get it so it's touching--you dont want to actually put any force on the neck. Then string your guitar with some heavier gauge strings and tune it up to pitch. Check the truss rod nut and see if it's tight now. If it is, loosen it an 1/8 to 1/4 turn and see if you gained some relief (measuring from the bottom of the E strings to the top of the 6th fret). If not, don't give up. Do the same thing, but this time tune the guitar (with the heavier strings) a half or whole step higher to increase string tension on the neck. If that works, leave it that way and play for a month or two, loosening the truss rod nut an 1/8 turn every week or so until the neck maintains at least some relief with the nut all the way loose. At that point, you can probably go back to regular tuning and lighter strings.
  8. Sounds like you need a Gibson-style wrench or a thin-walled 5/16" socket deep enough to reach the hex part of the adjustment nut.
  9. Just curious, did you take off your three hole cover and verify that the two hole version will work?
  10. If your Casino is built like most epiphones, the cavity below the truss rod cover likely extends all the way to the back of the nut so there's no wood to screw the lower cover screw into. Also, a two-hole cover won't completely cover up the cavity. I suppose it would be easy enough to glue in some wood to make it work but your truss rod adjustment would be buried in the process.
  11. So I guess I'll just answer my own question :) I just finished installing the new 275V power transformer and it appears from my initial tests that the tubes aren't choking on extra volts. What this does to their longevity remains to be seen.
  12. Are there any amp/electronics gurus here who can tell me whether or not I can substitute a 275-0-275 power transformer for the stock 260-0-260 in my Valve Jr. All of the other specs for the new transformer are the same, just the voltage is 15vac higher on the secondary side.
  13. I'd try to steam-heat them first to see if they will pop out before drilling. Fold a bit of wet cloth to fit between the frets and lay it over the inlay, then use a HOT soldering iron to heat/steam the cloth (this will prevent the inlay from melting and also from heating/lifting the frets. Once the inlay is too hot to touch, use an x-acto blade to pry up a corner and and the inlay should pop out. If you can get them out without drilling, you keep open the option of putting them back in if your new inlays don't fit.
  14. That is really weird, but it looks like it should peel off easily enough. Maybe hit it with a hair drier to soften it up a bit first. Epi poly finish is impervious to damn near every solvent known to man, so don’t be afraid to use chemicals to remove any residue.
  15. I've never heard of any kind of "grip" material for guitar necks. It's either years of accumulated goop or gunk, in which case you can probably remove it by wiping it down with Naptha or lighter fluid. Or perhaps a previous owner refinished the neck and the finish didn't fully cure, in which case you'll have to strip it down to wood and refinish it. Are any other areas of the guitar sticky?
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