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Yorgle last won the day on March 20 2019

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  1. My daughter has it at college so I rarely get to play it anymore.
  2. It’s likely not that the blue paint that has faded, but rather that the lacquer has yellowed, imparting a green tint to the color underneath.
  3. The new headstock design actually pre-dates the Gibson/Kalamazoo era. My ‘56 arch top was built in New York and it has that same style headstock as did other Epi arch tops as far back as 1939-40.
  4. Isn’t it possible to have just the pots replaced on the board?
  5. You can make a one-time radius block good enough to shape the new inlays by sticking a piece of 220 sandpaper to the fingerboard (between the 1st and 2nd frets) and rubbing a small block of pine or other softer wood back and forth between the frets until the radius is “transferred” to the pine block. The new inlays can then be mostly shaped with the block before they’re installed. Once they’re glued into the fingerboard, razor blade works great to scrape them flush with the surrounding wood.
  6. Looks great. I just finished I laying a vintage pearl Epiphone into my Alleykat’s headstock (it can easily be hidden by the bikini plate logo if I ever want to go back to stock.” The fake block inlays on the neck are next. Where did you get the pearl for your neck?
  7. You have to fish them out through the f-hole. YouTube is full of videos showing various ways to do this.
  8. "Note he did not mention soldering the tabs to the cover, theoretically if you make a good solid contact be the tabs or chassis to the cover the cover would be grounded."-- that's true but only if they are tightened down firmly, which in the case of the metal covers, tends to cause the sharp edges of the covers to dig into the finish. Soldering them is the best way to guarantee a good ground and no vibration, but you'll probably need a 40watt iron- the typical 25watt from Walmart most likely isn't going to work.
  9. The metal covers need to be soldered to the pickup baseplates to be grounded.
  10. A up-bowed neck can cause this because it raises the height of the nut relative to the bridge, tempting you to lower the bridge to bring the strings down, which might otherwise work but for the pickup being in the way. Action too high at the nut can also create this situation.
  11. I’m sure the wiring upgrade would be an improvement, but whether it’s enough to justify the cost/difficulty of doing it is questionable. If you like the way it sounds now, just leave it stock and play it.
  12. If it’s the bridge saddle buzzing, dab a drop of clear nail polish on the screw threads.
  13. Try pressing down on the pickup mounting ears while it's buzzing and see if it stops. My 2015 Wildkat had a mystery buzz and it turned out to be one of the solder joints on the bridge pickup was cracked allowing the cover to vibrate. Another place to check is the A-string saddle on the bridge.
  14. I don't think you can have too little relief as long the strings don't buzz. My tried and true method is to adjust the truss rod to zero relief (neck perfectly straight), then set the action at the 12th fret to 3-4 64ths treble and 4-5 64ths bass, then play for a while and listen for buzzing. If strings buzz before the 12th fret, I add in relief 1/8 turn at a time until the buzzing stops. If they buzz after the 12th fret, then I raise the bridge.
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