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cdntac

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About cdntac

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  1. My Byrdland does does the same thing --- though just a tiny bit. I took a small piece of black wet/dry 1500 grit sandpaper, folded it over a few times and forced it between the pickup ring and the pickup. You can't see it, it fits snug and the vibrations stopped. Granted, the vibrations were only heard acoustically --- not through an amp.
  2. Some of the wires in my Byrdland will vibrate against the body and cause a buzz on occasion. Obviously can't hear it through an amp but when you're playing acoustically little things like that can drive you nuts until you first realize what the cause is.
  3. There's no one perfect set of strings --- everybody has different tastes. The best thing you can do is try five or six brands and see what you prefer. I used to use D'Addario but after having an issue with the ball becoming unwound on the high E string I switched to GHS. Now I prefer the sound of them. At one time I was using 10-52 gauge, then 10-46 now I'm using a hybrid set of 9, 11, 16, 26, 36 and 46. We guitarists are finicky...try, experiment and see what you like. That's really the best way to do it IMO since strings aren't too expensive.
  4. The amps might only cost $1G to make (labour and parts). But I'd bet the first few cost the manufacturer much, much more than that with labour, R&D, etc. Customer: Why does your XXX-product cost $1000 when there's less than $200 in parts in it? Owner: You're right. That XXX-product does only cost me $200 to make. But the first one cost me $50G to design and create.
  5. I've not seen any markings on a archtop base. Mine doesn't have any (it's original but granted a '66) and I've not seen it on the handful of others I've ever looked at. Perhaps they do that on the new bridge bases. Let's see some pics of your Byrd!
  6. I once had an '82 LP Custom and its bridge had three spots where it could sit on the bridge posts --- I assume for giving extra intonation range. It's hard to describe --- if you looked underneath the bridge, instead of just one hole for it to sit on the bridge post dead centre there were three options --- centre (like normal), more forward or further back. I have to assume the bridge seen in this example might be the same. I tried to find an image online but wasn't successful.
  7. They probably confiscated Henry's computer and he's forgotten his password and can't log in on his new one. ;)
  8. I bought both the Virtuoso Cleaner and Polish about three weeks ago. Fantastic stuff! The cleaner won't need to be used too often, IMO, for most people. The polish added a very nice, deep shine to my old Byrdland and my two newer PRS'. The colours seem more vibrant now. I found that this polish also seems to prevent fingerprints from being left on the guitar body too. My Byrdland had (note I said "had) some marks on it that were caused by some sort of liquid. Beer, water, I dunno. But under the right lighting conditions they almost looked like bubbles in the finish. A few years ago, before I started working on guitars as a hobby, I had a luthier tell me he could refinish the guitar and get rid of them (yes, a luthier told me he would like to refinish my '66 Byrdland!!). I of course declined.... Nothing has ever removed these few small marks --- until now. The Virtuoso cleaner and polish (dunno which removed them) got rid of them completely. Something was obviously sitting on the poly finish for a long time! I'd have to speculate that this stuff is some sort of wax --- makes me wonder what is different about it as compared to some car waxes. Anyone have any ideas? I used both the cleaner and polish on a friend's old Kramer last night. He had covered the guitar in stickers --- they had been on there since the 80s! After using some naphtha to remove the stickers the guitar still had decades of gunk on it. The Virtuoso cleaner literally went black when I started using it. Buffed it out, added the polish and the guitar almost looks new now. Highly recommended.
  9. Somewhere there is a guy out there saying "Some prick beat me on the auction for those old computers!!!!!"
  10. I have no axe with you to grind as well. I just disagreed with parts of your post (which I simply snipped for brevity purposes).
  11. Set up for whose specs? Yours? Mine? Maybe I like high action. Perhaps super-low action. There are way too many differences as to how people like their guitars so there's no way Gibson can ship them all with a perfect set up for every person. Combine travelling, heat and humidity changes and umpteen people playing the guitar in the store before the customer buys it --- the action could be totally different from when it left the factory. One comment you make kinda baffles me though. You think Gibson should have their guitars set up from the factory and don't think a luthier needs to give them a set up. But next line you say that "height, a small truss rod adjustment or at the most intonation should be needed". That _is_ a set up. And a set up is not a "repair".
  12. Thx! I assumed you were referring to shots done in the past, not shots taken during the same shooting session. If you're going to attempt to capture stars, use a wide-angle lens (20-35 or so). Use a tripod, shoot at your lowest f-stop and try ISO 800 or 1000 with a 25-second exposure. The motion of the Earth will show star trails rather quickly so unless you have a tracking motor don't try a longer focal length lens.
  13. Somewhere I have lunar shots buried away on CDs or memory sticks. Can only find a couple on my hard drive right now. Both taken through a 4-inch f/9 Vixen apochromatic telescope using a Canon 50D. Can't recall what ISO or exposure. The waning gibbous Moon was probably ISO 400 or 800 and likely around 1/100 exposure. The lunar eclipse was from a few years ago. Likely ISO 800 and 10-12 second exposure (tracked using a Losmandy GEM). And yes, those _are_ stars in the lunar eclipse shot. ;)
  14. Before buying one, purchase a book called "The Backyard Astronomer's Guide" by Terence Dickinson and Alan Dyer or "NightWatch" by Terence Dickinson. The BAG is more detailed (and more $$) but it explains everything very well --- eyepieces, different kinds of telescopes, etc while NightWatch is an introductory book to astronomy, observing and equipment. Also, astronomy magazines such as Sky and Telescope, Astronomy Magazine and SkyNews Magazine can be found on major newsstands. Search online to see if there is an astronomy club near you. Most clubs have public observing nights where anyone come come and observe through club member's telescopes.
  15. You can shoot a full Moon @ ISO 200 --- provided you're using a tripod. Other phases will require higher ISO to compensate for less illumination. When shooting the Moon, no matter what the phase, the rule is "bracket, bracket, bracket!" Meaning shoot at different exposures --- one of them will be correct! And no, those are not stars Pippy --- it's camera noise. Even if they _were_ stars you wouldn't be able to compare stars in the background of previous Moon shots as there are always different stars in the background of the Moon. Plus that's ignoring the fact that at that the exposure time is too short to capture stars anyways....
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