Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

cosmitron

Members
  • Posts

    285
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by cosmitron

  1. The very first prototype - the one Ted McCarty took to show Les Paul at the Delaware Watergap house - was in Gibson's regular Sunburst finish of the period.

     

    I've never seen a snap of it, however.

     

    P.

    I'm gonna scan it, so you can see. :)

  2. I was watching some videos of Les Paul and Mary Ford on youtube and I noticed that the Les Pauls that both of them were playing were peculiar, it looked like the was a master tone and volume knob, the output jack was on the front of the guitar and the bridge pickup on Mary's guitar seemed to have a large space cut out. I was wondering if any of the historians had any info and possibly pictures of these guitars.

    The Les Paul Legacy Book 1 reveals a lot of details about the Les Paul guitar genesis with tons of pictures and geek details.

    According to this book, the neck pickup on Mary Ford's Goldtop was a DeArmond Gretsch Dynasonic.

    D'you have links of the vids you're talking about?

     

    Here are some pics for reference, that shows Les Paul had several prototypes he mod.

    A1HlnhNakfL._SL600_.jpg

    adventuresinthevastwastelandmaryand.jpg

    les_3.jpg

    6334_125019883015.jpg

     

    BTW, In the same book, there are some pictures of one of the earliest LP prototype with a different neck joint and a florentine cutaway.

  3. cosmitron- I think you should wait it out and go for the white custom you wanted! They're excellent!

    Yeah. Unlike most people I know, I admit my very first criteria for gas is the look of the guitar. I don't need a 3hb guitar. But I really can imagine me with the white custom. Go figure. :)

    Besides, though it's an excellent idea, I couldn't use the rotary pot. [rolleyes]

  4. Hey Cosmitron, What's up?

    I think the answer is that if the SG is a 60's or 61 reissue the neck joint is at the 22nd fret. Most if not all later models have the neck joint at the 19th fret giving them a longer, sturdier neck joint. If I remember right the longer neck joints started around '62.

    You're right.

    And again I think you were right before (with the youtube vid :D ). It won't break just like that anyway, even if adrenaline on stage can make you do things you won't think you'll do.. anyway.

    I came too late on both SG custom auctions, and they both been sold for 1500€. So now I'm holding my breath until another good price shows up. (Damned!)

    Besides there's a neat Ebony SG3 for sale at a decent price. Apart from the standard finish and the rotary switch, I can't see any other major difference with the custom. Do the Custom sports Honduran Mahogany ?

    BTW, I've read most of the pages of this topic trying to find answers, and I've seen the sg3 singlecoil routing picture. It has a long tenon (that still differs from the 60's SG Custom wider long tenon) and it is routed for humbuckers (or it does really look like it is), so mduke22 should be able to mod his guitar to 3HBs with no harm :)

  5. I'm gasing to death for a White custom, but a friend who knows a bit about guitars - especially those you bring on stage - told me the SG custom is probably one of the most beautiful Gibson model, but also the most breakable. He also told me the last decade models were built stronger.

     

    Any thoughts? [mellow]

  6. I have never taken the pups out of my Gibson yet. I have taken the pups out of my Epi Custom SG's and the neck goes all the way down to the neck pup cavity and has a beautiful tight fit to the body, no noticable gaps. I imagine if they do it on the Epi's that they do it on the Gibby's. I hope that helps.

    Kindof. Thanks anywway :)

  7. Thank you guys, now I'm seriously in the market for one.

    Anyway, I was wondering if there always been long tenons on SG Custom. There's a 1987 and a 1998 ri for sale, and though some would'nt care about this, I do, in a crucial way.

    [-o<

  8. If I had a 3 pickup SG, I would want to have 4 pots and a standard 3 way toggle switch. I would have a volume pot for each pickup and a master tone.

     

    I would have the switch so that it works like a standard 2 pickup guitar. I would have it wired so that I could bring up the volume on the middle pickup to engage it at any time/ position. And I would probably have it out of phase.

     

    That's probly the only way I would have a 3 pickup SG. I don't like the sound of the middle pickup very much so I would want to have it out of the equation most of the time unless I wanted to bring it in for some weirdness. That's just me though.

    I did the trick on sold a Burny copy. I think it's a very fine way to enhance your 3pu sg.

    This topic makes me gas for one. I'm in need of a white one. [blush]

  9. maestro.jpg:-s

     

    Unlike Les Paul common stop bar, there's no hole for the strings to pass through it but notches to lock the strings.

    Those notches are at the down side of the stop bar, and if you want to wrap the strings under, you need the notches to be on the upper side. Hence the whole discussion about flipping drilling and milling.

  10. Awesome 3D CG Musikron! It looks so real it looks like a true notebook! [biggrin]

    Joke aside, I think that to make the idea work, I would need to change the TOM for a TonePro with locking studs. The string tension is to strong for the tom to stay in place, I think. This means modify the guitar. [bored]

    Did I miss something?

  11. Thank you guys for taking some time to think about this little problem. :-

     

    Jerrymac> Honestly, after some bigsby study, I thought of something just like that too.

    There's an empty room at the bottom of the tremotone fixed base, and I thought I just might add an "omega" bar*. I've finally left the idea because I can not figure out how to find such a device. What you suggest is a little different and sounds pretty neat.

    PS>I never heard of MATTHIAS STURM, but I'm listening to his myspace songs right now, and it's excellent! for some reason it reminds me of a Dutch band called Daryll Ann.

    vibrola%20Empty%20Square%20Space%20copy.jpg

     

    Musikron> I think I don't understand your solution! (lack of imagination? :-s ) - But I swear I want to! (I'm always very sensible to the TOTALLY REVERSIBLE side of your suggestion)

    Could you explain it differently - so a french guy that learnt english with comics books and google could understand?[blink]

  12. I'd say that's a good alternative.

    I've tried to use a tailpiece but the Wilshire body is TOO thin and the string tension is too high.

    As soon as I'll have some time to spend I'll bring it to a guitar doctor, or a jeweler for the milling Fix.

    Meanwhile, I get use to it - high action - though the High E string keeps popping when I'm getting rude.

    Here's a little clip, featuring the wilshire plugged in a Cornford Roadhouse 30 (Apartment Master Volume Level).

    [YOUTUBE]

    [/YOUTUBE]
  13. Ouch! That would mean molesting a very clean vintage instrument. I would hold off on that for the moment.

    ...

     

    On a guitar like this it would be better to possible remove some parts and put them aside' date=' then fabricate new ones to suit your needs. It might be a little bit pricey, but not as much as the hit you'll take on a very fine collector quality piece.[/quote']

     

    This is a nice story, plus I completely agree. I can't make it drill. I can't.

    But I'm no genius.

    So I've finally bought a Schaller roller bridge. It's an ugly choice (compared to that old stock abr1), but I've been told it holds the strings in place much better.

    I'll give it a try. ;)

  14. Finally got an answer from Mr DAGUET.

     

    It is nearly impossible to flip the swivel bar... without losing the system for good. For the record, the cylindrical bar that pass through the swivel stop tail and the whole fixed part also acts as a spring. And btw, removing the 2 pins means killing them definitely, because it's probably too old and oxidized.

    He suggests to drill notches in the stop tail at the opposite side instead of flipping it, or, live with it. :-

  15. Hi

    I was thinking about this while walking my dogs in the forest this morning.

     

    Firstly' date=' in the tail piece there must be some thing that allows movement with the trem arm but

    resist the strings rotating the whole thing round. This may not work if you manage to take the bar out

    and fit it the other way up.

     

    You can probably make it work but you are getting more difficult. I wonder does one/both of the pins stop

    it rotating round?

     

    Alternatively you could perhaps have a couple of mm milled of the bottom of the tail piece that

    would have the desired effect.

     

    Or you could inset it, into the top of the guitar, then again maybe not !!

     

    Steve

    [/quote']

    Thanks for walking your dogs out Steve![biggrin]

    Honestly, I don't mind if the rotating stopbar is fixed! I'm not playing it, though I'd like any of the mods to be reversible.

    But you're right about that something that must occurs some resistance.

     

    My suggestion: grind down the underside of the two mounts' date=' where they go onto the body, by about 1mm. It will make a huge difference to the angle, and it will be invisible.[/quote']

    I think I don't understand your suggestion.:-k

×
×
  • Create New...