Esport

Hmm. I’m trying but the image is exceeding the allowable file size.

This was my dads 345. Walnut with Bigsby, Orange label, Shaller tuner swap...everything else is original. Not sure if it’s a ‘68 or ‘71. He bought it in ‘71 so that’s the latest it could be. Headstock logo has the “i” dotted in the Gibson logo. 1 9/16 nut. Gold topped witch hats. I’m just lost trying to use the S# to date it.

I own an ES-345TDW with Bigsby and am unsure about the manufacturer date. I think walnut was introduced in ‘69 so it shouldn’t be any earlier than that. However, it does have “Made in the USA” stamped into the headstock, which may make it later than that. I have the original Gibson pamphlet that indicates it was purchased, used, in ‘71. It’s an orange label 345, all original except for Klusons that were added in the ‘80s. The label throws me a bit since I remember reading that 70’s built 345s did not have the orange oval label. It does have a dotted “i” and closed “o” and “b” in the Gibson logo. SS# is six digit, 9xxxxx. Anything else I can look for to help with the date? Here are a couple of images. https://imgur.com/Nx5YrRC https://imgur.com/SYEQ9D2

https://imgur.com/xUgdq6l Here’s a shot of the back of the headstock to show the serial number.

https://imgur.com/SYEQ9D2

https://imgur.com/Nx5YrRC

I own an ES-345TDW with Bigsby and am unsure about the manufacturer date. I think walnut was introduced in ‘69 so it shouldn’t be any earlier than that. However, it does have “Made in the USA” stamped into the headstock, which may make it later than that. I have the original Gibson pamphlet that indicates it was purchased, used, in ‘71. It’s an orange label 345, all original except for Klusons that were added in the ‘80s. The label throws me a bit since I remember reading that 70’s built 345s did not have the orange oval label. It does have a dotted “i” and closed “o” and “b” in the Gibson logo. SS# is six digit, 9xxxxx. Anything else I can look for to help with the date?

This was my dads guitar and I don’t want to part with it for sentimental reasons, but I find it difficult to play. Partly it has to do with the narrower neck than I prefer...1 11/16 is my choice and the 345 seems to be 1 5/8 which feels a bit crowded. The frets are in desperate need. I’ll employ Joe Glaser here in Nashville to do that work. I’m on the fence about going SS but love the idea of the longevity they promise. I’ll probably forego the PLEK, though, even though Joe and his staff are the go-to guys for that in this area (or nearly any area). I’ve toyed with the idea of having the Varitone removed and a new harness be made in a 335 fashion to reduce the weight in the tail. Plus, I’m no fan of running a Y cable to 2 channels just to blend the bridge in. It’s got the factory Bigsby and I can’t stand how it’s in the way or how annoying it makes string changes....I’d like to swap that out for a period correct trapeze if a local shop could do it without butchering the top. Everything’s original except the tuners which were changed in the ‘80’s. It doesn’t matter to me if the value drops by doing these mods, since this guitar will be in my collection permanently. But, I want to WANT to pick it up and play it. Has anyone done the Varitone delete/Bigsby delete/refret in one of these 345s and noticed a favorable improvement? I’ll never sell it but it seems a waste to never play it either.

This was found under the bed, after my father passed. He never mentioned it or played it, to my knowledge. We think it belonged to my grandmother who played mandolin and sang bluegrass in the 60's and 70's. I have only this pic and from what I can tell, it's most likely a late 60s C&W. The bridge is what throws me. It's facing down instead of towards the sound hole which I don't see very often in pics of other C&W models. I understand that this single image makes for a tough ID but I won't have the guitar in my possession for a little while to take a closer look.