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tbonesullivan

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  1. Yes, cigarette / tobacco smoke unfortunately. It was supposed to have no odor, and it didn't have much at first, but the seller must have cleaned the case, as the longer I had it, the more smell started coming out of the case. I've had very good luck getting the smell off guitars, but not out of the cases. With the guitar, tearing off ALL the hardware, cleaning it, and then using Stew Mac preservation polish will pretty much remove everything. I'm then going to wipe it down with naptha, especailly the fretboard. Then I'm going to buff it with swirl remover, which has some pretty potent solvents. After that, Gibson pump polish, which really works wonders on just about any nitro finish. After that, gonna lemon oil the fretboard a few times to hopefully cause all of the smoke smell to come out.
  2. I haven't had any issues with it. It's supposed to be nitro safe, but in general I don't leave any of my nitro finished guitars on stands. Latex will DEFINITELY eat into nitro. Now I just wish I knew a sure fire way to de-smokify a case. I shampooed it, bombed it with deoderizer and baking sode, and an ozonator. The smell keeps coming back. Case is going in the garbage and being replaced.
  3. Looks like I can get OEM ones from the stratosphere. If it was a non-standard pickguard, I'd do the tracing thing, but this one comes complete with new screws too. The guitar unfortunately has been exposed to smoke, so I'm doing a full hardware off clean and swirl removal and putting on a new PG. This is the guitar in question. It sounds awesome and plays awesome, but it doesn't smell awesome, yet.
  4. So, I picked up a 2004 standard used in Natural burst. It's in nice shape, but the pickguard got quite chewed up by previous owners. I looked around for an original Gibson one, but those are very hard to find, and also there may have been changes since 2004. I looked at the usual aftermarket makers, and they don't really specify WHICH SG pickguard is the correct one. Any advice?
  5. Naptha is a very good way to clean a fretboard if it's really grimy. There are a lot of products out there for fretboards, everything from scented mineral oils to more esoteric things. I usually just use scented mineral oil, but if it's dry, I break out the F-one oil. Ernie Ball wonder wipes also work great.
  6. Dots and that logos look silk screened. That's not a standard.
  7. Is that heat damage, or did something spill on it? Nitro can react to things like Insect Spray and other things. Is the finish in that area hard, or is it 'gooey'?
  8. So, since there seem to be no nitro safe rubber materials, why doesn't anyone make felt/cotton stands? I'm probably going to make one myself so I can leave my nitro guitars out for longer than 3 hours. Just seems surprising that with the amount of guitars that still use nitro, that more hasn't been done to make stands that won't kill them. I've got some stand rash on my SG supreme, which I touched up and buffed out.
  9. get a silver cloth that trumpet players use on their silver plate trumpets. I believe those are probably nickel plated covers, so they are gonna age, slowly but surely. They don't have the resilience that chrome does.
  10. huh? the back of the headstock stamping has more to do with when the guitar was made, not what type of guitar it is. The "grain" people are seeing in the topmost post is in fact dithering from a cell phone camera... aka bad picture quality. The problem still is that neither an SG standard NOR special should have that color as the stock color if it is a 1977. The headstock inlay though shows it to be a standard. Now it says "SG" on the TRC, I don't know if that's correct. Honestly, I don't know enough to even venture a guess as to what it really is.
  11. is the seller the original owner? The fingerboard is neither bound nor blocked. I was under the impression that all standards were bound and blocked in that time period. Black definitely is not one of the listed colors. Unfortunately without seeing the guitar in person there is no real way to check out to see whether that is in fact the original color of the guitar.
  12. well, I guess I should qualify that with "useful if it works" A possibly MORE useful guitar would be one with a modular midi controller built in that could work with outboard effects unit, as opposed to an effects unit built into a guitar with a bizarre switching system.
  13. save up for a used Standard would be my advice. Or maybe one of the lesser known models from the 80's and 90s. there are a TON of good SGs out there for not too much money.
  14. Looking at it more... It's just a bad call. The robot guitars with auto tuning: that's awesome. Really useful to EVERY gigging musician, pretty much negating the need for a tuner, tuning, and also helps you set the intonation. The effects on this guitar are simply limiting, and the interface to control them is cluttered and not intuitive. far better would have been a buncha buttons with a display screen on the top of the guitar where you could just press the buttons for various effects and either turn them on or off, or switch sound profiles entirely. Instead you have to deal with a bunch of toggle switches, sliders, with mix controls around the toggles, and the "gear shift" knob, which has a nice display that you can't even really read while playing.
  15. the 57 classics are single conductor + ground. The conductor should go where the HOT wire for the pickups is. The ground conductor should go to the other part of the clip. Is the ground for the 490/498 spliced in with another wire?
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