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Everything posted by tbonesullivan

  1. Yes, cigarette / tobacco smoke unfortunately. It was supposed to have no odor, and it didn't have much at first, but the seller must have cleaned the case, as the longer I had it, the more smell started coming out of the case. I've had very good luck getting the smell off guitars, but not out of the cases. With the guitar, tearing off ALL the hardware, cleaning it, and then using Stew Mac preservation polish will pretty much remove everything. I'm then going to wipe it down with naptha, especailly the fretboard. Then I'm going to buff it with swirl remover, which has some pretty potent solvents. After that, Gibson pump polish, which really works wonders on just about any nitro finish. After that, gonna lemon oil the fretboard a few times to hopefully cause all of the smoke smell to come out.
  2. I haven't had any issues with it. It's supposed to be nitro safe, but in general I don't leave any of my nitro finished guitars on stands. Latex will DEFINITELY eat into nitro. Now I just wish I knew a sure fire way to de-smokify a case. I shampooed it, bombed it with deoderizer and baking sode, and an ozonator. The smell keeps coming back. Case is going in the garbage and being replaced.
  3. Looks like I can get OEM ones from the stratosphere. If it was a non-standard pickguard, I'd do the tracing thing, but this one comes complete with new screws too. The guitar unfortunately has been exposed to smoke, so I'm doing a full hardware off clean and swirl removal and putting on a new PG. This is the guitar in question. It sounds awesome and plays awesome, but it doesn't smell awesome, yet.
  4. So, I picked up a 2004 standard used in Natural burst. It's in nice shape, but the pickguard got quite chewed up by previous owners. I looked around for an original Gibson one, but those are very hard to find, and also there may have been changes since 2004. I looked at the usual aftermarket makers, and they don't really specify WHICH SG pickguard is the correct one. Any advice?
  5. Naptha is a very good way to clean a fretboard if it's really grimy. There are a lot of products out there for fretboards, everything from scented mineral oils to more esoteric things. I usually just use scented mineral oil, but if it's dry, I break out the F-one oil. Ernie Ball wonder wipes also work great.
  6. Dots and that logos look silk screened. That's not a standard.
  7. Is that heat damage, or did something spill on it? Nitro can react to things like Insect Spray and other things. Is the finish in that area hard, or is it 'gooey'?
  8. So, since there seem to be no nitro safe rubber materials, why doesn't anyone make felt/cotton stands? I'm probably going to make one myself so I can leave my nitro guitars out for longer than 3 hours. Just seems surprising that with the amount of guitars that still use nitro, that more hasn't been done to make stands that won't kill them. I've got some stand rash on my SG supreme, which I touched up and buffed out.
  9. huh? the back of the headstock stamping has more to do with when the guitar was made, not what type of guitar it is. The "grain" people are seeing in the topmost post is in fact dithering from a cell phone camera... aka bad picture quality. The problem still is that neither an SG standard NOR special should have that color as the stock color if it is a 1977. The headstock inlay though shows it to be a standard. Now it says "SG" on the TRC, I don't know if that's correct. Honestly, I don't know enough to even venture a guess as to what it really is.
  10. is the seller the original owner? The fingerboard is neither bound nor blocked. I was under the impression that all standards were bound and blocked in that time period. Black definitely is not one of the listed colors. Unfortunately without seeing the guitar in person there is no real way to check out to see whether that is in fact the original color of the guitar.
  11. is it set up correctly? sounds like the strings might be fretting out or something similar. If you are expecting an SG to sustain like a les paul, I've got some bad news for you: it's not a les paul.
  12. anyone who dismisses Norlin-era Gibsons under the blanket of "crap" is about as reliable of a source as Ed Roman. Sure, some Norlin era guitars were not up to par. However if you bought a Gibson in that era new, it was a Norlin. Many famous rock and metal albums were recorded on "crappy norlin era" gibsons. All of the Blizzard of Oz album was recorded with Randy Rhoads playing on a Norlin LP Custom. He didn't get the RR guitars made until later. Why are these artists using them? probably because they are great guitars.
  13. 12 inch radius seems to be the standard that a lot of people are going for these days. A lot of "shredder" style guitars though go more for a 15 inch radius, or even something higher. Also some jazz guitars and especially classical guitars have very flat radiuses.
  14. you're going to get a marshall amp of AT LEAST 100 watts eventually? Why would you EVER need more than 100 watts? anyway, if you want strings that last, you'll have to pay for them. I'd recommend D'Daddario EXP strings or Elixir strings. These are coated and last quite a long time. Another route: get string care products like fast fret, which help protect the strings and clean them. Now, when you say the ernie balls lasted two weeks, what do you mean? did they break after 2 weeks?
  15. ok... what is this about there not being any "varnish" on the back of les pauls? Unless they are a faced model, the ENTIRE back and front of a les paul, except for the fretboard, is coated in nitrocellulose LACQUER. As in, the WHOLE DANG THING. Some guitars have a natural colored back, some have black, some have cherry red. I see no problem with the "black and tan" style LP with a black top and a natural back. In fact they are quite popular. also, the grain patterns on plain maple can be quite pleasing, and I'd still prefer a nice burst finish to something opaque. If you're gonna make it solid, at least make it sparkle.
  16. Ok... it buzzes on open strings? That usually is a nut problem, or possibly something has gotten loose and is vibrating. Could be part of the bridge, one of the nuts on the pots, or even the pick guard vibrating against the mounting rings for the humbuckers. so yes, contact gibson CS, and see what they say to do. They may ask you to take it to a gibson authorized repair center for a setup.
  17. you know, this thread seems to be more about people complaining and bashing Gibson than about actually trying to figure out why the guitar has buzzing. All legitimate helpful questions have been ignored by the topic starter. One person who can't read also apparently got somewhere that the inspection checklist said that it had buzzing on 4 strings? Well it didn't. The threadstarter said that the buzzing was checked off. Now, I'll ask again, does it buzz only on open strings, or does it buzz on fretted notes as well? is the neck in backbow or in forward bow?
  18. are you sure it's fret buzz and not something else vibrating? how much worse is the buzzing when you fret strings?
  19. I got my Heritage H535 off of ebay. Couldn't be happier. of my current lineup of 10 guitars, I got 1 from craigslist, one from ebay, 3 bought new, 2 bought used from stores online, and 4 from forum sales, local and mailed. I've also bought other guitars from ebay and locally in the past. Do your homework and it is hard to get burned.
  20. any movement in the neck joint can cause the nitro to crack, even from temperature changes, so it might not be indicative of a wonky neck joint. The SG standard has the later style longer neck joint, which is a lot longer/stronger.
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