Enzo Heavenly Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Hello there, I got my Sheraton '62 (VS) and I'd like to upgrade it a little. I need advice for the following: 1. Nut: I was thinking about Tusq, but... should I get the Epiphone Slotted one? (ivory) 2. Bridge: A friend of mine says default bridge should be replaced with a better quality one, so... any ideas? TonePros? 3. Tuners: So far my Sherry goes out of tune a little too often, even though it has the grovers but I think the NUT could be the issue. I'd prefer an 18:1 tuner, ideas? (for gold hardware) 4. I have a little ringing on my "e" string when I play it open, any idea? 5. Strings? I haven't changed the stock strings yet, I'm gonna use Gibson Vintage Reissue 11s, any other ideas? (length-wise) Thanks in advance and every advice or recommendation will be truly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie brown Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Well, before you do anything else, change the strings, and replace the nut! Bone, Tusq, Ivory...ANYTHING, but plastic! I'd guess, that those 2 things would clear up most (if not All) tuning issues. Unless you cannot intonate the bridge, or there's some other "problem" with it, I'm not sure changing it, is needed. But, do whatever makes you feel better, about your guitar. Tone Pro's stuff is quite good. You could go with the Grover "Locking" tuners, as well...as I believe they are 18:1. Good Luck! CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bluemans335 Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 90% of tuning issues are the nut, not the tuners. All you need to do is put a little graphite powder (the kind for padlocks) in the nut slots and there's no more slipping or 'pings'. Don't really need a new nut, or tuners. That's just throwing money out the window. If you're intent on replacing something, it might as well be the bridge/tailpiece, but don't expect much improvement in tone or sustain from that. Why 11's? I assume you don't bend much. They put a lot tension on the next (to get up to pitch). 10's make more sense. You've got a very good stock guitar, it's doesn't need much, if anything. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enzo Heavenly Posted March 28, 2013 Author Share Posted March 28, 2013 @CB: Thanks a lot for the input. I always change the nuts in my Epis, but since this (Sherry) is the only one left I got, I'm not sure if should just order the same tusq nut I always get or if its a little different (but I think it should be ok, since the only 'different' epis I have seen, are the Casinos). What TonePro bridge would be a proper replacement for mine? @Blueman335: Cos it's the gauge I have used for the last... 5 years? I do a lot of bendings, but I play slowly. Think about Oasis, simple solos and lots of bendings. 10s feels a little weird, I tend to over bend them. But this is my 1st semi-hollow, I will have to follow your advice and give 10s a try for this one as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie brown Posted March 28, 2013 Share Posted March 28, 2013 Well, changing the "nut," has always been something I've done, on all my Epi's and Gibson's, save the old one's that had "bone" or some other higher density material nuts, to begin with. I've never regretted it, or felt it was a "waste of money." My dealer changes them out, on every Gibson/Epiphone guitar I buy, from them, now....it's just part of the deal, they make with me. The difference in sustain, alone, is quite noticeable. And it's solved every tuning issue, I've ever encountered, that wasn't a direct result of some more serious mechanical defect, etc. And, if That happened, they just replace the part, or even the guitar, as defective, and send it back to Gibson. (Which usually happens, prior to my taking delivery, on it.) A Good/Great dealer, is essential...IMHO. Cheers, CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abilbay Posted March 29, 2013 Share Posted March 29, 2013 Hello there, I got my Sheraton '62 (VS) and I'd like to upgrade it a little. I need advice for the following: 1. Nut: I was thinking about Tusq, but... should I get the Epiphone Slotted one? (ivory) 2. Bridge: A friend of mine says default bridge should be replaced with a better quality one, so... any ideas? TonePros? 3. Tuners: So far my Sherry goes out of tune a little too often, even though it has the grovers but I think the NUT could be the issue. I'd prefer an 18:1 tuner, ideas? (for gold hardware) 4. I have a little ringing on my "e" string when I play it open, any idea? 5. Strings? I haven't changed the stock strings yet, I'm gonna use Gibson Vintage Reissue 11s, any other ideas? (length-wise) Thanks in advance and every advice or recommendation will be truly appreciated. I bought a used Sheraton and got a great deal because it was so hard to play and keep in tune. It was one sorry guitar. I then made the following changes. 1) i made a new bone nut. I have used tusk and bone before. Both are good, but the stock nut on my Sheraton was crap. That alone fixed all the tuning issues. (I could be wrong but I don't think the ivory nut is true ivory. I think ivory is illegal). I would go with tusk over the stock nut every time. 2) TonePro bridge. Again the stock on mine was crap (the worst bridge i have ever seen). The TonePro was worth every penny. I could not believe the difference it made. Improved sustain, tone, acoustics, volume, and intonation. I mean perfect intonation. 3) I was going to change out the tuners because my stock ones are so sloppy. But after the new nut and bridge it holds a tune so well I see no point. 4) I put on Elixer nanoweb strings. I just love the way they feel. And they last so long. The coating makes them last 2 to 3 times as long and it also cuts down on the fret hand finger noise. As for the "ring" on the e string. Mine also buzzed and had a ring when played open. It means your nut slot is too low. I had the sme issue, until I made a new nut. I have not seen or played a 62(VS) so I don t know if its the right mods for you. But what I can say is that the mods your thinking about made a crappy (impossible to play)1991 Sheraton one amazing guitar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enzo Heavenly Posted March 31, 2013 Author Share Posted March 31, 2013 I bought a used Sheraton and got a great deal because it was so hard to play and keep in tune. It was one sorry guitar. I then made the following changes. 1) i made a new bone nut. I have used tusk and bone before. Both are good, but the stock nut on my Sheraton was crap. That alone fixed all the tuning issues. (I could be wrong but I don't think the ivory nut is true ivory. I think ivory is illegal). I would go with tusk over the stock nut every time. 2) TonePro bridge. Again the stock on mine was crap (the worst bridge i have ever seen). The TonePro was worth every penny. I could not believe the difference it made. Improved sustain, tone, acoustics, volume, and intonation. I mean perfect intonation. 3) I was going to change out the tuners because my stock ones are so sloppy. But after the new nut and bridge it holds a tune so well I see no point. 4) I put on Elixer nanoweb strings. I just love the way they feel. And they last so long. The coating makes them last 2 to 3 times as long and it also cuts down on the fret hand finger noise. As for the "ring" on the e string. Mine also buzzed and had a ring when played open. It means your nut slot is too low. I had the sme issue, until I made a new nut. I have not seen or played a 62(VS) so I don t know if its the right mods for you. But what I can say is that the mods your thinking about made a crappy (impossible to play)1991 Sheraton one amazing guitar. Bro! Do you remember, what was the model of the TonePro bridge you used? (a link would be awesome) and do you know what is all that fuzz about imperial measurement used by Gibson against Epi's metric one? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abilbay Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I am almost 99% sure it was the T3BT. I got it through a local shop. The older Sheratons from the 90s had slightly different measurements on the bridge post and were not always consistant. I explained my worries to the owner and He told me if it did not fit he would take it back. It was not a simple fit. The post that came with the bridge would not fit the body. (I dont exactly remember what was wrong i just remember being mad about it) What I did was leave the original bridge post in the guitar and kinda force the new bridge on the post. I went slow and worked it from side to side until it was seated all the way down. I also had to squeeze the post together with my fingers. It was a TIGHT fit. I believe tight fits are better for sustain and loose fits rob you of tone. Or at least that is all the hype behind TonePros anyway, so I was not to upset about the extra tight fit. Anyway, I set my heights and locked the bridge into place and rocked out. It really was worth all the $. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
abilbay Posted March 31, 2013 Share Posted March 31, 2013 I forgot to address the imperial v metric question. Imperial is kind of like the way the US measures things. Inches, feet, yards. Etc (they are not exactly the same but closely related). Metric system is what most Asia and most of Europe use. Millimeters, meters, kilometers etc. Short version is they measurements are different because guitars made in Asia are measured using the metric system. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bender 4 Life Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 all I had to do for mine was clean up the nut slots (especially the bottom edges) on the stock nut with Swiss needle-files, and replace the stock 14/1 tuners w/a set of well broken in 18/1 Super Rotos w/Imperial buttons. everything else has been just fine. these '62/50s are some seriously good guitars !! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
charlie brown Posted April 5, 2013 Share Posted April 5, 2013 all I had to do for mine was clean up the nut slots (especially the bottom edges) on the stock nut with Swiss needle-files, and replace the stock 14/1 tuners w/a set of well broken in 18/1 Super Rotos w/Imperial buttons. everything else has been just fine. these '62/50s are some seriously good guitars !! I don't own one, YET...but, I've tested a lot of them, and...I agree. They are very, very nice, guitars! I can't decide, if I should get one of those, as is, or...a regular "Sheraton," and put TV Jones Filter-tron's, in it. I'd love to do "both!" But, that's not possible, right now. So...??? Decisions, decisions! :unsure: CB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Enzo Heavenly Posted April 6, 2013 Author Share Posted April 6, 2013 Thanks everyone for the ideas, so yeah I ordered some stuff, so I got my new nut and my amazing Mono Cases M80 Semi Hollow gig bag (it's oh-so-amazing!), but I was thinking about the ResoMax NVS Harmonic Bridge System (by GraphTech). I will still ask about the TonePros Bridge, I need to find a guitar technician here in Long Island (NY) first. I don't feel like going all the way to Manhattan for just a nut/bridge replacement. If anyone knows about the ResoMax, feel free to add your feedback. Thanks a lot, again! :D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.