Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 The 'she' in question is my newly acquired guitar: 1978/79 Guild S-70. Blonde-ish/white-ish faded paint, black PG, S/S/S config, previous owner put Dimarzios (it looks and sounds like) All mahogany body and neck and original Grover tuners (minus the one that's missing and was replaced with an inferior tuner) So here's where it gets good. Right after I acquired it, I started talking with my uncle, who sort of knows a lot about gear. I gave him as much detail as possible and he said there were only 300 if this variation with these options made. Whether or not that's true, I don't know, but he does know his stuff. Also, I got really lucky. Only needed 3 things done to make it fully playable. One of the toggle switches is busted, one of the tuners is crap, and the switch tip was missing. (was, replaced it already) I'm not exactly sure what these switches do either, but one of them seemed to be a treble boost. (the working one) Is this a USA made guitar? And I'm conflicted as to whether I should try and hunt down a proper tuner to replace it, or just get modern Grovers. Thoughts? Here she is. She's a little thrashed, but I love her. She really does play like a champ. I'm honestly impressed with it as it sits.
Izzy Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 I like it! Get modern grovers for quality's sake. She sings well, you say?
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 I like it! Get modern grovers for quality's sake. She sings well, you say? I love it. It reminded me of JR's Mosrite when I saw it from very far away. Emotional attachment at first sight! The old ones are smooth as hell, though. The only problem is the rarity of the tuners themselves, and keeping the guitar as original as possible. And hell yes she does, and that was even with strings that were caked with DNA to the point that they were corroded green and black. Imagine what a fresh set will sound like.
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 Very nice too, 24 frets? Don't junk them old parts though. Nice wood on those Guilds too. Congrats Mr B!
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 also, the tailpiece... It's a solid block of metal with holes drilled in it. I feels simply built to last, and there's not a spot of corrosion on it!
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 Very nice too, 24 frets? Don't junk them old parts though. Nice wood on those Guilds too. Congrats Mr B! Yes sir, the big 24. I wouldn't dare. I'd keep em in my drawer with all my other old parts. And yea, the wood does feel great. It's got the perfect weight to it too. It just feels right in every sense of feeling right.
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 NICE! Love those old Guilds. Should I do the modern Grovers??
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 Mucho mojo...! From heel to headstock, every inch of paint is worn off the neck. The neck has grooves worn in the back of it. And this thing still plays great.
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 The Grovers on my LP are very good machines. Might be a bit heavier than the stock ones on yours though. Look at Schaller too. Do you think you can get heads where you won't have to plug and re-drill the holes?
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 The Grovers on my LP are very good machines. Might be a bit heavier than the stock ones on yours though. Look at Schaller too. Do you think you can get heads where you won't have to plug and re-drill the holes? Find an original one? maybe if the new Grovers screw at the same point, then just fill one hole?
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 Yes something like that..sort of minimum alteration as long as it works right. They were very well made and I'm sure in the USA. That's a keeper, right?
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-GUILD-D-35-USA-TUNER-/400437269755?pt=Guitar&hash=item5d3bebd4fb Only 2 left :/
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 http://www.ebay.com/itm/1973-GUILD-D-35-USA-TUNER-/400437269755?pt=Guitar&hash=item5d3bebd4fb Only 2 left :/ Oh I see. Very different screw fitting. That's a silly price, it's no good unless you can get a full set. They must have made them on other models perhaps. But it does mean it will be almost impossible to replace them with an 'ordinary' reasonable-priced set, without drilling new holes. As the old holes would probably be covered by the new tuners I wouldn't even fill them.
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 Would I have to drill it out? I'd also consider Klusons.
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 Would I have to drill it out? I'd also consider Klusons. I would leave the old holes completely alone if possible; new tuners will need new holes. Klusons, Grovers, Schallers, Gotoh - there's an awful lot out there. Take one tuner off and get some measurements, as exact as you can - how wide and deep the hole for the shaft is and how far from the retaining screw hole and and what angle etc. It might come in handy when looking for the right tuners (if you research on the net). Or (bottom line) you could go to the nearest guitar shop and buy the 1st set of tuners that fit the shaft hole.
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 I'll have my local tech take a looksy tonight if I can get down there.
jdgm Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 I'll have my local tech take a looksy tonight if I can get down there. I don't mean to put you off - if you just need a single tuner and you have the $55 go on, but then again the tech guy might have one in a box somewhere for far less! I had this dilemma a few months ago when a friend got me to do up his Mustang bass. Fender bass tuners aren't all the same height or size. The choice was a whole new set, a single original tuner in bad condition for a silly price on ebay Australia, or a single cheap modern replacement with a longer shaft. I asked which he wanted and he went for the cheapest, last option. It works. That's all it needs to do. Now if you're restoring it, ah that's different!
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 Lol, not restoring it. The character is what drew me to it in the first place. I chased down the kid who was lugging it through school.
milod Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 I think you're doing the best thing first: Having a good tech look at it. Then you'll have a better perspective in terms of options. I have a '70s Guild S100c. It's a marvelous piece. The old solidbody Guilds in playing condition are among the best solidbodies I've ever had my hands on. Most would say equal to or better than the similar Gibson versions. Can't really say the same about the new Guilds due to lack of experience with them, but the old ones were super. Yeah, you've also the problem of the question of "restoration" or simply "make it play as it was designed to do." If the latter... do what you and the tech decide is best, keep any and/or all leftover parts preferably locked somehow in the case (a parts drawer gets them eventually lost, I can tell you from experience) and let 'er wail. Good luck. You've found a gem. m
Buxom Posted April 4, 2013 Author Posted April 4, 2013 And for a good deal. I traded roughly $125 in misc/spare parts for it.
pippy Posted April 4, 2013 Posted April 4, 2013 I remember reading the tests of the various models (H/H; S/S/S etc..) at the time and they always hade rave reviews, especially as regards Playability. From heel to headstock, every inch of paint is worn off the neck. The neck has grooves worn in the back of it. And this thing still plays great. I'm guessing here but that's probably because it's such a great guitar it's been used properly! I'm seriously chuffed for you; getting such a great guitar! I'm certain you don't need me to say "Enjoy!"... P.
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