ChrisM Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 May have a lead on a 1943 Banner LG-2 (FON# 2217 with 47 in red). This particular LG-2 does not have a truss rod. This makes me a bit nervous. What do I need to know about guitars with no truss rod? The seller advertises the action at 3/16" at the 12th fret (no distinction between the high and low side). This seems fairly high, does this mean a neck reset will be required. The guitar is mahogany topped btw in fairly good condition (a few small holes drilled in the body) and a replaced bridge. $2300, seem ok? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EuroAussie Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 Sounds like exactly the fear I had when I was looking to buy my 43' LG-2 without the truss rod. Anyway, what I can tell you is that at least on mine the neck was dead straight and the action pefect, just where I would want to have it. I think a hurrican could come through and that neck angle would not budge on mine .. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 ...and a neck reset on such a fine guitar ain't the end of the world. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 From seller... The neck is dead straight. Rosewood fretboard shows moderate wear, frets show light wear. Neck joint is rock solid. New phosphor bronze strings are set-up at 3/16" at the 12th fret. Doesn't that 3/16" seem high? Don't know how much saddle is left. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 That's cutting it close Chris. The saddle height is an important piece of info here. Gotta' find out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stubee Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 A neck w/o truss rod can be fine, may be a handful on an old LG-2 IME = 'stout'. I'd have no fear of a non-truss rod neck if that is what you want. The truss rod has little or nothing to do with string height at 12th fret. It has nothing at all to do with needing a neck reset. That action is too high to me & I play fairly high action. You need to know saddle height & I'll bet it is low. It would take a pretty good saddle lowering to get that guitar from 12/64" to about 7/64" string height. Maybe time for a neck reset and nothing wrong with that as mentioned by others. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 May have a lead on a 1943 Banner LG-2 (FON# 2217 with 47 in red). This particular LG-2 does not have a truss rod. This makes me a bit nervous. What do I need to know about guitars with no truss rod? I love these guitars. I've got two truss rod-less Banners. Instead of a metal truss rod these guitars have a V-shaped maple insert inlaid the length of the neck. The necks are quite stable and the guitars are very light. The Italian guitar makers Bagnasco and Casati recently built a J-45 style guitar using this method and it's the finest Banner replica I've played. I'm currently working with them to replicate one of my guitars ( an SJ) which they'll be presenting about a year from now at The Music Emporium. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM Posted June 13, 2013 Author Share Posted June 13, 2013 Thanks for all the info guys. I realize neck reset/action and truss rod aren't related. Just wanted to get your input on both matters. This is the best I can do in terms of a saddle pic. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 The most important point has been made - the truss rod adjusts relief not neck angle. So while a truss rod will help you avoid a neck reset it is not going to help you much with a guitar that needs one. Lack of a truss rod is generally compensated for by a thicker neck. I have been playing guitars without truss rods for decades and still have three. I don't give it much thought other than to know better than to string them with heavy gauge and tune to Open A or something. The action you mentioned is what most would consider to be about as high off the board as you would want to go. As already mentioned check the saddle height. That might be what ends up being a deal breaker. I would also make sure that you can make peace with a mahogany top guitar. Folks do love them but I am not a fan. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambler Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 You pays your tickie and you takes your chances. The thing about the Vintage Game is that it takes a wad of cash to play. FIrst, what you lay down to get the piece. Second, what it takes to get it in good running order. Like, say, a Banner LG2 at The Center For Guitars with unrepaired side cracks, a deal at only $1900 or two 12-fret black L-00s (refins) that needs a neck sets, one a stone bargain at $2200 and the other with a b.i.n. of 2.8k. Ok, that's still chump change for some folks. They have enough clout, however, to keep the market price right up there for the ret of us. Which is why the Vintage Game is a high risk enterprise. I understand the enthusiasm for these pieces. However, every such encounter reinforces my intent to stick with recent issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rambler Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 PS: Chris, here's something to think about. Before you get into a big investment in a piece that may or may not suit your needs: have a think about what you need in a guitar. Are you a strummer? finger picker? Are you accomplished, a weekend hippie or smack dab in the middle? What do you play? generic folk or pop-rock, trad styles (blues/old time, bluegrass), new age-jizz, or a random lot. How does a Gibson fit it to the picture, re picking style or tunes you play? Is it a stretch to buy the high price spread or can you be happy with margarine? The gang here loves its Gibson and would be glad to help you get one. But as the Stones say, sometimes you 'get what you need.' G'luck, Rambler Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stubee Posted June 13, 2013 Share Posted June 13, 2013 That saddle looks pretty low but the pic poor. I got no issue with a low saddle in a good playing guitar as they may stay that way for a long, long time. But if the action is high up the neck ya gotta do something. On a banner mahogany/no truss rod LG-2: there is one of those pictured in the "Gibson's Fabulous Flattops" book that Elderly had for sale some time after the book was out. I played that guitar & it had a huge sound. I like LG-2s and have an old one but the banner was way outta that league in the bass department. I'd own it now if my hand liked big necks because it was L-A-R-G-E. This of course doesn't mean the one you are interested in is great, just a story I'm passing on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisM Posted June 14, 2013 Author Share Posted June 14, 2013 Talked to the seller tonight. He was measuring that 3/16" action from the fret board and not the fret crown. That explains a lot! He says the action isn't high at all and in fact is low and plays pretty well. Still asked for a accurate reading of the action at the 12th fret on the low and high E. Also asked for a nut width measurement and a pic of the saddle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Moir Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Low E 5/64" Hugh E 4/64" Bit of room to move down the saddle. Big base ball 1 3/4" neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted June 14, 2013 Share Posted June 14, 2013 Low E 5/64" Hugh E 4/64" Bit of room to move down the saddle. Big base ball 1 3/4" neck. All sounds good to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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