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HELP! 72 Les paul needs new frets


PeterPan

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I have a '72 Deluxe Les Paul, the kind with the mini humbuckers. I actually bought it right about 72. I'm a major DIY person, both in electronics and other maintenance, and over the years have learned to do a good job maintaining and modifying this guitar, including fret leveling and re-dressing. Fortunately the Gibson frets seem to hold up well, but I've now leveled and redressed the frets 5 times over it's life. Needless to say, with Gibson frets being wide and low to begin with, there are only so many times you can do this, and I've now reached that point. And you can't just replace the neck as you can with a sttatt, so that's not even an option (At least I've never heard of replacing a Les Paul neck.)

 

So now I'm faced with the major dilemma of re-fretting. Besides the normal expertise, time and patience this requires, I think this fretboard is made of the kind of very hard wood Gibson once got in trouble for using, Ebony I think? In any case, any wood this old probably requires some kind of special penetrating oil treatment to even attempt to remove the old frets without splitting up the wood. Then there's the inlay (vinyl?) on the sides of the neck, which would be a pain to remove and probably just as much a pain to replace.

 

So maybe this is now out of my league. I love this guitar, and wouldn't mind investing is having an expert do it, but it makes sense for me to start here and get some education:

 

1. Would it even be possible for me to get the original size fret wire, side inlay material, a new nut?

 

2. I know the neck can't be removed, but maybe I could somehow remove the whole fingerboard and replace it? Then all I'd have to do is replace, followed by the usual fret leveling and dressing?

 

3. back to just re-fretting the existing fingerboard. If, as I'm starting to think, this is out of my league, about how much should I expect to pay?

 

Obviously that last consideration is important. I hate to be disloyal, but I'm not some collector looking to "restore and antique"... I just want to play the thing, and I'm not some pro with unlimited funds. Plus, there are some good copies out there (Sorry Gibson), sold significantly cheaper than my Les Paul cost me even back in '72! So if its going to cost more than a new instrument, I have to consider keeping my Les Paul for special situations for home use only ( while its frets are still usable), then buying a copy instrument and customizing it as I wish.

 

Opinions, as well as pointers to instructional videos, or even offers (probably better by private message) are welcome. I'll attach a couple of photos, if the forum will let me.

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Dear PeterPan,

 

refretting fingerboards with bindings, and even nibs at the fret wire ends, is an expensive work since a refinishing is required but you should be able to find a luthier who will accomplish it. Materials should be no problem, from nut, fret wire to the binding including fret markers. In case the fretboard is unevenly worn, it could be sanded down to achieve a smooth radius close to the original one. I think it is made of rosewood on your guitar but am not sure - at least it is the case with the 1978 Gibson Les Paul Deluxe Gold Top of a bandmate. Replacement of a fretboard presumably is a very difficult work, but until now I haven't heard personally of any guitar which had been in need of. In any case, I think it would be best to have the work done by an experienced artisan who will bring the fretboard back to a level like new, and will retain everything else as close to the original as possible.

 

On the other hand, I understand your considerations to buy a new guitar. My situation is similar when it goes around my 1978 SG Standard. I was about to buy a 60s Tribute without binding and 24 frets but finally went with a Supra. Sadly, there is no SG available with the 1978 Super Humbucking pickups, the lower neck joint, and the long-travel so called "harmonica" bridge, and I fear they won't make them anymore, perhaps also due to the royalties for the license to rebuild the pickups designed by Bill Lawrence as far as I know.

 

For Les Paul players, the situation is a bit more comfortable I think. However, there will be some notable differences. Contemporary Les Pauls do all have a mahogany neck as from 1952 to 1960, not a maple one like from 1967 to 1983. Except the Traditional 2013, all Les Paul models will be weight relieved - OK, besides the Alex Lifeson Les Paul Axcess, too, which has lots of cavities though and is a completely different thing.

 

My recommendation is to have it checked by good luthiers, and to solicit quotations. If the estimated charges seem too expensive in your opinion, perhaps you can trade it as a subject to restoration. I think there will be enthusiasts who would pay a price you could live with.

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  • 5 years later...

I had a 1972 les Paul deluxe cherry sunburst recently refretted.  The refret was $375 due to the neck binding. Very reasonable and he did a hell of a job.  Also had him install a bone nut and a Tonepros locking bridge which improved intonation and sustain. Love it now...plays like a new guitar !  

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My luthier charges $225+ tax for a refret, and that includes leveling the fretboard and of course setting the guitar up afterwards. After a refret you’ll most likely need a new nut (or you could do the baking soda-super glue trick for a temporary fix) which he charges $35 to make one from bone. I would also suggest Jescar Evo fold fret material, its about $20 but it lasts longer than nickel and, ITS GOLD FRETS! Not like the old copper frets, these are a metal alloy that feel just like nickel and are gold through and through. I use it because it lasts longer than nickel, but not quite as hard as stainless (which I feel changes the sound), its GOLD which may or may not match your guitar, and its nickel free, and since I’m allergic to nickel its a must. As far as the binding, level the nibs down as they’re too expensive to keep, as you’d have to rebind the neck or reattatch the old binding again, and the alot of finish touch up.

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very easy to chip the finger board yanking the frets out.

if it was me and I didn't really trust anyone close in my town.. I'd email 1 place that does vintage repairs all the time

gruhn@gruhn.com

contact Greg Voros , he's the head repair guy.

email them a number of detailed pictures.

he shoots straight and their prices are not out of line with anyone else but you know you guitar is in the hands of pretty close to the best repair shop in your country

 

 

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