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updating the electronics with a pcb, do i clip the quick connectors?


Scott0

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i'm moving forward on changing out the pots and caps on a 2013 lp 60s tribute, which came with burstbuckers with quick release connections.

 

is there an adapter i can plug into the connections to change the quick release to wire leads or do i just snip the connector?

 

i've done a search here and on google and there is info about doing a 50s wiring scheme update from a pcb lp but no mention of how to handle the quick connects.

 

 

tia!

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Guest Farnsbarns

I'd snip them about an inch back. That way you can solder the connectors back on if you want. If you used shrink wrap you could cover the join and take the shrink wrap right up to the connector to keep things looking nice.

 

The alternative is to find some females and make the adapter you mention.

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If I understand, you want to keep the existing connector from the pickup. Check this Molex cataloque..Figure B, select the number of conductors, and the little terminals to go with it. You can then have the wire leads.

 

Molex connectors

 

..or a previously suggested, just cut the leads from the existing molex connector.

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thanks for the feedback, folks!

 

I just re-read your inital post. Are you going to wire it it like most guitars and not use the PCB?

 

yes, was planning to take the pcb out and keep it stock, in case i wanted to put it back in.

 

i am still deciding on wiring though, i initially planned to do 50s style wiring but came across the gibson ultimate with push pull for bridge and neck for single coil tones and tone on neck position has push pull for out of phase tones and bridge tone pot has push pull for bypass tone. that sounds pretty cool too!

 

[thumbup]

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How many conductors are the stock pups, if that is what you are going to keep in it. I did the same thing to my '09 SG Std. I put in PIO caps and then took them out. I took out the PCB and threw it away, and wired it like most dual hum guitars. I would say just snip enough wire so you can go back to stock if you ever decide to.

 

 

they are 4 lead conductors, love the pups too, burstbuckers 1 and 2. really super nice sounds to my ears.

 

 

i'm going to go with snipping and if i ever need or want to go back to stock, will do the heat shrink, i love that stuff! just have to decide now which wiring scheme to go with, 50s or challenge my soldering skills and do the ultimate............................... ](*,)[cursing]

 

 

ultimate

 

WiringUlti.jpg

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I am unsure if your BB's are wired as coil taps or coil splitting.

 

I have a 2013 LP standard with BB's with single coil(?)/humbucker taps, in-phase/out-of-phase, and by-pass for the bridge BB. If I have the time, I will take it apart and do a schematic and take dc resistance measurements. Mine appears to be coil taps with an additional capacitor for the tap. It does maintain almost the same volume from humbucker to singlecoil. But the single coil position does not sound like a true single coil (when you split the two coils and use only one coil).

 

With all the extra controls on the 2013 LP standard, I end up only using the basic 2-Vol, 2-Tone, and a switch... it's just my familiarity the old setup for the last four-decades.

 

Anybody know of the PCB schematic and values for the 2013 models?

 

thanks,

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they are 4 lead conductors, love the pups too, burstbuckers 1 and 2. really super nice sounds to my ears.

 

 

i'm going to go with snipping and if i ever need or want to go back to stock, will do the heat shrink, i love that stuff! just have to decide now which wiring scheme to go with, 50s or challenge my soldering skills and do the ultimate............................... ](*,)[cursing]

...

 

 

If you have a true split wired pickup (4-wires with ground)...do the ultimate and enjoy playing with all the push/pull knobs. You might want to check the OHM resistance of the coils to verify.

 

My Standard is seems wired a little differently with an extra cap on the coil tap.

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I am unsure if your BB's are wired as coil taps or coil splitting.

 

I have a 2013 LP standard with BB's with single coil(?)/humbucker taps, in-phase/out-of-phase, and by-pass for the bridge BB. If I have the time, I will take it apart and do a schematic and take dc resistance measurements. Mine appears to be coil taps with an additional capacitor for the tap. It does maintain almost the same volume from humbucker to singlecoil. But the single coil position does not sound like a true single coil (when you split the two coils and use only one coil).

 

With all the extra controls on the 2013 LP standard, I end up only using the basic 2-Vol, 2-Tone, and a switch... it's just my familiarity the old setup for the last four-decades.

 

Anybody know of the PCB schematic and values for the 2013 models?

 

thanks,

In the recent Standard models, one wire of each coil is connected to the other, forming a center tap of the humbucker, if you will. In case you separate them, you may create parallel option wiring, too. Both coils are connected seperately in four-lead plus graound pickups, unlike some three conductor plus ground pickups which allow for the Fender-patented center tapping via capacitor, center to ground tapping, or "real" coil split, i. e. one coil left unconnected instead of shorting it out, but not for parallel connection.

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OK... Just an FYI: I measured the leads at the Molex connector on each BB from my LP Standard 2013...looks like measurement of each coil. The higher Ohmic resistance is used for the single coil to maintain equal volume between single to humbucker mode.

 

NECK PICKUP

Black-Green 3.86k OHMs

White-Red 4.01k OHMs

 

 

BRIDGE PICKUP

Black-Green 4.10k OHMs

White-Red 4.28k OHMs

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kaicho8888, thank you, that's terrific input, much obliged!

 

capmaster, as per usual, you're a fount of info, thank you!

 

 

FZ Fan, will do. i like the cardboard template, i've rewired a couple guitars so far and went that route, it certainly helps keep things organized.

 

again, much appreciated!

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