Hall Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I must have been lax, after all. Ten days in a bag with a Dampit and it has closed. Deciding on course of action from here. Steve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Magic...but you've been warned. I guess I'd run it in and have it cleated while the cleating's good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
62burst Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Very encouraging. Now: is there anything lighter than a cleat that could be applied? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
milod Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 Around 10 years ago I had a crack in the top of my old '70s Ovation "Country Artist," one of the first real AEs and a nylon string guitar. They said they'd do a factory repair although I hadda pay shipping there - a bit over $100 as I recall. They used something that almost looked like a tyvek tape. I didn't have the right mirrors to investigate further. But the guitar kept working, although I think with a bit less sustain. m Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted March 12, 2014 Share Posted March 12, 2014 I suggest cleating when the split is in it's current 'healed' state, which will depend upon the repairer getting his/her hands on it under the same condition you created by rehumidifying. That could be tricky. I've never owned anything but old guitars and most had cracks, repaired and re-repaired. I jump right to the cleating option since it's most important to stop any progress if the crack is planning to travel. A very lightweight one ( or three ) will hold it forever and hardly effect the top's responsiveness. Otherwise, I would expect it to eventually get under the bridge and out the other side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 None of my business really but if it were me I would take it to a guy who knows what he is doing and let him make the call. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 a Good Luthier could make that invisible.. Humidify it closed, Glue and Cleat.. If Diamond tapered Spruse cleats are used.. it should not affect the tone what so ever.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry K Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 The guitar is a wooden box with a good deal of force in the tensioned strings pulling it, undermining and warping the shape. You have to check and make sure the crack itself or loose bracing under there aren't going to threaten the structure and cause catastrophic failure. If there is further that the crack can extend, even very minor fluctuations in humidity will tend to cause it to grow. Cleating is often a good idea and won't change sound much. I would get a competent luthier to check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonCarlos Posted March 13, 2014 Share Posted March 13, 2014 You can make cleats, from spruce stock. If you have none locally you can find a sheet on ebay. Titebond glue. I used super magnets to hold the cleats on. Plenty of information on the net if DYI. That said, if you have never done this before, then an expensive instrument should not be your first venture. Find a luthier. Please keep us updated though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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