Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Cost of getting Gibson es339 right...


pieandapint

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi.....thought I'd drop a note outlining what it's cost so far to get the 339 to the standard that you should expect from a high cost instrument. Tuning stability was a nightmare from the beginning with the guitar, specifically on the g/b strings......so luthier change to a bone nut correctly cut (apparently very poorly set up) £40.....still unstable tuning......bought new tonepros avr ii bridge £ 40 ........graphtech saddles £30 + £20 for luthier to fit ( couldn't remove the retaining clips).....total £130 excluding nut sauce etc. Tuning now stable and sustain significantly better ...however you wouldn't expect to have additional cost to bring a new car etc up to spec......cheers.

Posted

Yeah but Gibson win if you don't send em back that's why they don't sell 2nds they just send everything out and let the customer decide if its good enough the more people allow it the poorer the product will get

Posted

Sounds to me like you were sold a bill of goods by the tech for what amounted to a $15 nut filing, plus a proper setup!

 

New nut, new tuners, new bridge and then new saddles on the new bridge (and they didn't even fit properly). All "required" to correct "unstable tuning". Come on now, do you really think the tuners, bridge and nut were all bad from the factory?

Posted

Sounds to me like you were sold a bill of goods by the tech for what amounted to a $15 nut filing, plus a proper setup!

 

New nut, new tuners, new bridge and then new saddles on the new bridge (and they didn't even fit properly). All "required" to correct "unstable tuning". Come on now, do you really think the tuners, bridge and nut were all bad from the factory?

 

^^^^ My thoughts too! ^^^^

 

Although I didn't see tuners on your list, I'm surprised you didn't get those too.

Posted

The nut thing is understood here, these things might happen. The upside is that they are grooved much better from the factory than during the Norlin years, but often are a bit edgy due to an unmatching breaking angle. As the resulting downside, there's no chance left for rework, and only a new one will help.

 

Everything else looks a bit excessive from here. Each and every new guitar will need some time for stabilization of neck and intonation adjustments, especially when switching string brand, make and/or gauge. Dealt with it more than three dozen times over the years and never had serious trouble. All the rest is proper stringing up and tuning.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...