fortyearspickn Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 1402197685[/url]' post='1528365']There are some great pictures of bridgeplates in this thread. What is the best and easiest way to take photos inside a guitar with the strings on? Take off the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randmo Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Take off the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 okay Forty, I probably deserved that for asking a stupid question. But I was seriously wondering about the quality of a couple of those images. They seem to be much better than what I get with a soundhole mirror and my cell phone camera. Is it best take the back off with a saw, or should I use a blowtorch to melt the glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randmo Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 Is it best take the back off with a saw, or should I use a blowtorch to melt the glue? I loosened the strings and stuck my iPhone in there. You could probably put the phone in sideways and turn it once it's below the strings, I haven't tried it yet. I suppose if you drop the phone, then you will need to open up the back. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hogeye Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 OK! The "Homecoming is over and the folks are leaving. It was a great time and the folks had a good meeting with the Acting Gibson G.M. and Jeremy Morton. They asked all the right questions about the bridge plate problem and I'm sure they will respond as soon as they get home. There were a lot of folks this year and Music Villa had a big handpicked selection of great guitars as usual. Jeremy Morton and several others played in the store and Gibson had their "Gibson Days" team there. A "Homecoming" favorite, Carl Tosten even stopped by as he was playing at Ted Turner's restaurant. I was hoping John Mayer would be in town but never saw him. We went to Ted's to listen to Carl and have dinner and Ted Turner showed up. It was pretty cool as he is a big fan of Carl Toston's. I would encourage anyone here to go to You-Tube and look at Carl's work. He is amazing. Carl is from Seattle and likes to come out to Montana and fish. Lucky for us as he is a good friend and we enjoy his music and I know you will as well. If any of you out there have ever thought of vacationing out West and had a hankerin' to go to Yellowstone Park the Homecoming would be a great time to fit in your plans. I hope your problems work out for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortyearspickn Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 okay Forty, I probably deserved that for asking a stupid question. But I was seriously wondering about the quality of a couple of those images. They seem to be much better than what I get with a soundhole mirror and my cell phone camera. Is it best take the back off with a saw, or should I use a blowtorch to melt the glue? Nah, you didn't. I just thought I'd Lighten the mood. if you use a saw, you could install a hinge - and that would make it easier when you change your strings. Seriously - I gave up trying to even post pictures here - so I"m sure you're Light years ahead of me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michaeljohnr Posted June 8, 2014 Share Posted June 8, 2014 There are some great pictures of bridgeplates in this thread. What is the best and easiest way to take photos inside a guitar with the strings on? Thanks. My J45 is the third photo in the OP's post. No issues at all with the holes. I used a Stewmac mirror and an iPhone camera. It's not that difficult, you just have to get the angle correct and try to not use a flash. Then you crop the image to bring more attention to the bridge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRC Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 It's a bad design, plain and simple. And the rip out from the drilling of the holes shows a dull tool bit….in my opinion. This is really substandard production. Owners shouldn't have to be fixing these factory mishaps. Clearly it's not just one or two guitars!!! And let's not forget about the adhesive/glue residual a Gibson rep admitted to the factory leaving on fretboards after installing the markers. I was basically told how I can 'fix' it, but ended up having to use a razor blade to scrape it all off my J-35's fretboard. Sloppy work....but fixable, and frankly I'd rather do it myself since I take more care with my own guitars. Using a mirror I just checked the bridge plate on my J-35. Sure don't like the mounting hole so close to #3 & 4 pin holes but doesn't seem to be causing any issues and the hole appears to be plugged. All ball ends are seating securely. The pin holes certainly aren't perfectly drilled but don't seem to be too bad. The bridge plate is large enough to provide plenty of room for mounting K&K transducers. I did notice that the securing clip for the Baggs Element wire coming out of the saddle slot has been placed on the bridge plate RIGHT next to the 6th string hole and the pin is touching it. Unbelievable. So, another fix is in order. Actually, I'll be dumping the Baggs soon, so it will all be removed. I just checked the bridge plates on my Martin OM-16 and Guild F-130R and they're both clean as a whistle with perfectly drilled, clean holes and no sloppy mounting/alignment holes. Beautiful work. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vacamartin Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onewilyfool Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Vaca….have you checked for termites?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRC Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Vaca, what guitar is that? Is it just the photo angle, or is the bridge plate really that skinny and not providing enough width to fully mount those small transducers? But then it looks like they could have been mounted a bit closer to the pins, especially the high and mid transducers. Still looks awfully skinny compared to my J-35's bridge plate. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vacamartin Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Vaca, what guitar is that? Is it just the photo angle, or is the bridge plate really that skinny and not providing enough width to fully mount those small transducers? But then it looks like they could have been mounted a bit closer to the pins, especially the high and mid transducers. Still looks awfully skinny compared to my J-35's bridge plate. DC You'll need to ask...ThemisSal...it's a pic from his post on the UMGF............... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frenchie1281734003 Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 This is my J-15 built in April.... VERY close to the D string! Is that a laminated bridge plate? i looks odd along the edge. Steve. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randmo Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Is that a laminated bridge plate? i looks odd along the edge. Steve. Gibson said its Maple, but didn't say if it was laminate or not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Morton Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Gibson said its Maple, but didn't say if it was laminate or not. The Bridge plate is solid maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Morton Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Gibson said its Maple, but didn't say if it was laminate or not. The Bridge plate is solid maple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bozz Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 The rosewood bridgeplate on my $500 Fender looks great. The pin holes have have perfectly clean edges and there is not a sign of compromised material anywhere. My new J-35 is in the shop right now, but I plan to check this issue out when I get it back. I hope it looks half as good as the Fender. http://i1375.photobucket.com/albums/ag480/tdrex72/Fender_zpsb836295a.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRC Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 Is that a laminated bridge plate? i looks odd along the edge. Steve. As a woodworker and guitar tech who takes great pride in his work, when I see sloppy workmanship like this and lack of attention to detail (basically a hack-job on the hole drilling) of these Gibson bridge plates, it's embarrassing. I question that bridge plate being solid maple. Here's what a solid maple bridge plate looks like. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeremy Morton Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 As a woodworker and guitar tech who takes great pride in his work, when I see sloppy workmanship like this and lack of attention to detail (basically a hack-job on the hole drilling) of these Gibson bridge plates, it's embarrassing. I question that bridge plate being solid maple. Here's what a solid maple bridge plate looks like. DC DC, You are welcome to question it. But the fact is that they are solid maple. the darkness seen around the edges is likely from when they are cut. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chasAK Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 My bridge plate looks great. It is an 08 j45. The bridge plate is solid wood. The mystery hole is plenty far away from the pin holes. There is very little tearing and splintering where the drill bit comes through. Some of the above pictures look scary! I don't know the process so I have not suggestions for the hole placement. The dull drill bits and too much force pushing them through is an easy fix. chasAK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DRC Posted June 9, 2014 Share Posted June 9, 2014 DC, You are welcome to question it. But the fact is that they are solid maple. the darkness seen around the edges is likely from when they are cut. J J.. Dull blades burn/darken wood edges as they tear more than cut, so if that's the case, it would seem time for a blade change. Actually, the edge of that J-15 plate looks more ripped than cut cleanly. What concerns me more are the ragged, splintered, torn areas around the pin holes. Sharp drill bits and good technique usually produce nice clean cuts, not what we're seeing here. DC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortyearspickn Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 1402288144[/url]' post='1528713']You'll need to ask...ThemisSal...it's a pic from his post on the UMGF............... vacaMartin, help me understand how posting a picture you know nothing about from another website/forum contributes to the discussion here. Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fortyearspickn Posted June 10, 2014 Share Posted June 10, 2014 1402335612[/url]' post='1528860']As a woodworker and guitar tech who takes great pride in his work, when I see sloppy workmanship like this and lack of attention to detail (basically a hack-job on the hole drilling) of these Gibson bridge plates, it's embarrassing. I question that bridge plate being solid maple. Here's what a solid maple bridge plate looks like. DC Drc, with all due respect. That is one nice piece of maple. I've seen lots that don't look like that though. Some on kitchen cabinets. And, while I've only drilled a dozen hundred or so holes in wood. I don't think splinters showing up on the nether side are indicative of either a dull drill bit or "a hack job". You can sand off the splinters, or drill from the exposed side, but both are cosmetic approaches which have nothing to do with the integrity of the hole itself. As previously noted here, I have a 2004 and a 2010 with clean bridge plates. My Dec. 2013, not so much. So, I'm not an apologist or fan boy. But the bridge plate wood itself is not in question here, so let's move on, shall we? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duluthdan Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 If I've ever had one of those head-slapping moments,finding out about this little hole is one of them. It is only a coincidental appearance on the bridge plate, and its purpose is essential to cutting the dovetail neck joint on the carriage apparatus that's used in that manufacturing step. If my technological skills don't fail me, there should be a picture of that jig. The variety of positions we see in the relation of this hole to the bridge pin holes are all about the proper placement of the bridge on the top to dial in the exact intonation on each individual guitar. The bridge might necessarily move forward or back a smidge, to get the intonation spot-on. Following the install and gluing/drying of the bridge, the pin holes are drilled. That is why we see some closer to this hole than others. Has everything to do with intonation, and perhaps this little hole oddity contributes to the individual personality we all seem to experience in different Gibsons. It is apparent that even though this hole may be close to pin holes, it would probably be very rare to see a pin hole that wasn't completely surrounded by at lest some Maple. And the glue that is used to affix the spruce plug to the top fills that hole with a material, that to my observation anyway, is at least as hard and resilient as the Maple bridgeplate itself. As i understand from observing all of these steps, the location holes are drilled in the guitar tops (there's one up under your fingerboard too) After numerous steps, these tops are affixed to bodies, destined to be mounted and clamped to the jig which essentially creates the recess for the dovetail neck joint. Further down the assembly both of the locater holes are plugged with spruce (and glue). Necks are fitted, binding is installed etc etc, and then the guitar goes to be measured for scale, and intonation, and the bridge is installed. The hole is essential to the precise dovetail neck joint. In later steps, the hole is filled with spruce, and later covered up by the bridge. And it is the placement of this bridge fundamental to intonation, which positions those pinholes closer to, or further back from that locater plug. I believe it is important to me to have a precise neck joint, and good fundamental intonation, and an invisible locater hole from the drivers side of the guitar. Probably way more important than poking my head under the hood and fretting about that hole. In my estimation, it is a very inconsequential thing. The ball ends of strings will probably weardown the Maple faster than they would that epoxy. I an't worried no more ! If you select this picture, it should lead you to my Photobucket place, where you should be able to see the other jig, and a couple more shots of the life of this hole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
duluthdan Posted June 10, 2014 Author Share Posted June 10, 2014 Well the P-Bucket thing is beyond me, so here are some more pics related. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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