String Changing Technique

[Bozz]

I'd be interested in hearing what string changing methods are being used out there. I have always worked on my guitars and changed strings with the instrument laying on a coffee table draped with a blanket and a pillow supporting the neck. The body likes to slip around which has always been a minor irritation to me. I know there are mats with neck supports out there, but I've never used one. I also know a lot of people change strings with the guitar laying on their laps. Others do it sitting in a chair with the guitar resting on their feet and the headstock between their knees. Some people change their guitar stings on a bed. Any thoughts on a preferred method?

 

tdrex

[kidblast]

I've had a planet waves mat with a neck rest for about 12 years now.

 

IMO, it's one of the best ways to go about this, any other setup for me, is just a pain in the A$$.

mine looks a lot like this:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/099-0502-000?device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CMKmjYmb474CFWYV7AodYmsAmw

 

this would work on a table or work bench with something to lay the body on:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/NC65?device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CMqBpZSb474CFWYV7AodYmsAmw

 

if you want to go cheap and high tech:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Headstand?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=guitars&utm_term=adwords_labelsGuitar_Stands&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CLPqmaKb474CFSMQ7Aod_yMA0g

[Pittgibson45]

 

 

if you want to go cheap and high tech:

http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/Headstand?utm_source=Google&utm_medium=PPC&utm_campaign=guitars&utm_term=adwords_labelsGuitar_Stands&device=c&network=g&matchtype=&gclid=CLPqmaKb474CFSMQ7Aod_yMA0g

 

I use this planet waves neck rest and set it up on an ironing board with a terry cloth towel on it. The ironing board is the perfect height to stand behind and you can easily walk around to the other side. I also have a planet waves peg winder attachment for a cordless screwdriver (or drill, which I would not recommend a drill) that speeds things up quite a bit. The best polish rags I have found are cloth diapers, which you can still buy at Wal-Mart. I guess with the exception of the cordless screwdriver I like to go pretty low tech, and cheap.

[onewilyfool]

Here is my string changing advice:

 

1. NEVER use a string winder. I have seen $6000 guitars with tell-tale circular swirls at the head stock (especially on slot head guitars!!!) it is NOT worth the time savings. Patience is a virtue when changing strings.

2. NEVER cut off the excess string length until the strings are at pitch. (some strings can actually start to unwind before you get them to pitch!)

3. Only once in a while do I take off all strings at once, and that is only to clean the fret board. Even when I do that, I loosen the strings first before cutting them in the middle of the fretboard, so as to not cause too much shock to the guitar neck, going from over 200 lbs. of pressure to 0 in a matter of seconds. When I do this, I stick all the bridge pins on a piece of scotch tape, to keep them in order for replacement. (on some guitars this DOES matter, especially luthier built guitars from small shops, where the Luthier may shape each pin especially for each hole/string)

4. I like to take off strings, I take them off one at a time, and then "tune" the replaced string roughly to pitch before removing the next string. I do this for all strings, then use the electronic tuner to get them exact.

5. Then I will stretch each string by lifting up on the string and then sliding my finger from bridge to nut. Then I retune to pitch. This removes a lot of retuning when strings are new. Be careful not to pull up too hard on the string near the bridge, you can actually pop out the bridge pin from the upward pressure.

6. When all this is done, THEN I cut off the excess string length. Sometimes I will cut off the excess leaving about 1 1/2" of string which I then bend over double so as not to leave a deadly, skin piercing, blood letting string end poking straight up to damage your hand or the top of the cloth in your case.

7. After this, I "tolerate" the new set for a few days until it settles down….then I can enjoy

 

I've noticed these few things also:

1. Acoustic arch tops need string changes LESS than flat top guitars. I don't know what it is, the downward pressure on the floating bridge or the curved architecture of the arch top, but strings, even old dirty strings, seem to sound good for a MUCH longer time on an arch top.

2. I dislike changing strings on a slot head guitar…….just more work, harder to get my fingers in there to direct the string, etc, etc……But I do enjoy the increased break angle over the nut….I think this adds to the tone and volume of the guitar!! Any way, I wait about twice as long with the slot head as a paddle head guitar before changing strings…..lol…..

3. I have the type of skin that just DESTROYS non-coated strings!! Something in my sweat/oil/chemistry, that would render a set of D'Addario's dead in one day. So I use almost exclusively, Elixir strings. I have branched out a little, it seems that Nickel wound strings last much longer for me, and that "round core" strings, even unwound round core strings, last a lot longer than the hex wound strings, which most makers use. I think it is harder for dirt to get inside the windings with the round core, hence the longevity increase.

4.Lastly I use almost exclusively 12-52 or 54 strings. I can still bend these and they sound good, good volume, but on some guitars especially the older ones, I use 11's and there is really not that much difference in loss of sound quality.

 

Just some thoughts for today!!!

[blindboygrunt]

Here is my string changing advice:

 

1. NEVER use a string winder. I have seen $6000 guitars with tell-tale circular swirls at the head stock (especially on slot head guitars!!!) it is NOT worth the time savings. Patience is a virtue when changing strings.

2. NEVER cut off the excess string length until the strings are at pitch. (some strings can actually start to unwind before you get them to pitch!)

3. Only once in a while do I take off all strings at once, and that is only to clean the fret board. Even when I do that, I loosen the strings first before cutting them in the middle of the fretboard, so as to not cause too much shock to the guitar neck, going from over 200 lbs. of pressure to 0 in a matter of seconds. When I do this, I stick all the bridge pins on a piece of scotch tape, to keep them in order for replacement. (on some guitars this DOES matter, especially luthier built guitars from small shops, where the Luthier may shape each pin especially for each hole/string)

4. I like to take off strings, I take them off one at a time, and then "tune" the replaced string roughly to pitch before removing the next string. I do this for all strings, then use the electronic tuner to get them exact.

5. Then I will stretch each string by lifting up on the string and then sliding my finger from bridge to nut. Then I retune to pitch. This removes a lot of retuning when strings are new. Be careful not to pull up too hard on the string near the bridge, you can actually pop out the bridge pin from the upward pressure.

6. When all this is done, THEN I cut off the excess string length. Sometimes I will cut off the excess leaving about 1 1/2" of string which I then bend over double so as not to leave a deadly, skin piercing, blood letting string end poking straight up to damage your hand or the top of the cloth in your case.

7. After this, I "tolerate" the new set for a few days until it settles down….then I can enjoy

 

I've noticed these few things also:

1. Acoustic arch tops need string changes LESS than flat top guitars. I don't know what it is, the downward pressure on the floating bridge or the curved architecture of the arch top, but strings, even old dirty strings, seem to sound good for a MUCH longer time on an arch top.

2. I dislike changing strings on a slot head guitar…….just more work, harder to get my fingers in there to direct the string, etc, etc……But I do enjoy the increased break angle over the nut….I think this adds to the tone and volume of the guitar!! Any way, I wait about twice as long with the slot head as a paddle head guitar before changing strings…..lol…..

3. I have the type of skin that just DESTROYS non-coated strings!! Something in my sweat/oil/chemistry, that would render a set of D'Addario's dead in one day. So I use almost exclusively, Elixir strings. I have branched out a little, it seems that Nickel wound strings last much longer for me, and that "round core" strings, even unwound round core strings, last a lot longer than the hex wound strings, which most makers use. I think it is harder for dirt to get inside the windings with the round core, hence the longevity increase.

4.Lastly I use almost exclusively 12-52 or 54 strings. I can still bend these and they sound good, good volume, but on some guitars especially the older ones, I use 11's and there is really not that much difference in loss of sound quality.

 

Just some thoughts for today!!!

 

wily. you're nuts.

[BigKahune]

.

No table, I use my lap because I replace one string at a time and bring it to pitch (rough in). I don't use a winder.

 

On the rare occasion when I deep clean the fretboard, I'll use a table with towel and neck rest, take all the strings off, clean the fretboard, oil the fretboard, oil the bridge, polish the top, replace the strings.

 

 

.

[Hall]

......... and bless each string maybe.

[onewilyfool]

wily. you're nuts.

What about my nuts???

[drathbun]

wily. you're nuts.

 

+1 I think I disagree with most of that list.

 

1. Wrong. Just use it right! Pegwinders are used every day without doing damage.

2. Wrong. Except when using non-hexcore strings like Cleartones then he's right.

3. Taking all the strings off at once is NOT harmful to the guitar. If you CUT them off at pitch, you don't deserve to have a guitar anyway.

4. OK

5. Just lift at the 12 fret and give the string a couple tugs and retune. Don't be lifting the string near the bridge... wahhhht??

6. Agree - just keep it short. If you cut to length BEFORE you string it up you don't have this problem to start with.

7. Agreed

 

Note about slot heads - precut the string and you don't have problems "getting fingers in there"...

[blindboygrunt]

I with drathbun here.

But I just string it up and clip the strings after its tuned. not because I'm using new tones or anything , just cos that's the at I've always done it.

 

changing strings should not be turned into major surgery. its a simple and straightforward necessity.

seems the world wants to complicate things when there's no need.

 

and one final thing - pulling the strings at the bridge ? naw naw

[chasAK]

If your question is how to support the neck when changing strings, I usually put the guitar on the couch and support the neck by the armrest. Concerning cutting the string after they are tuned to pitch, it works for me. I also bend the string where it goes into the peg hole.

 

chasAK

 

[retrorod]

What about my nuts???

 

You are nuts!!!

 

 

 

 

JUST do it!.....no matter how....JUST do it!