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My knobs don't look right!


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Just finished upgrading my Sherry with new pups, pots, switch, and jack. It's been quite an experience, with nothing going the way I thought it would in terms of metric versus standard electrics.

Surprisingly, my old knobs that came off the dime sized Asian pots slid right onto the shafts of the full sized CTS pots I installed.

However, the new shafts are a bit longer than the old ones, so the knobs have a huge gap between them and the guitar. I really can't afford to buy several sets of knobs trying to get something that fits right, so I'm hoping someone on here has some experience I can benefit from and a source for some new knobs.

The pots are split shafts, so no knobs with set screws. I prefer Gibson or Epi factory style knobs, as well. I don't have any experience with speed knobs, but I'm guessing they are not the solution I'm looking for.

 

IMAG0169_zpsxkkf2uz2.jpg

 

Thanks

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Did the pots come with two nuts each? If so, you can adjust the inner nut (inside the guitar) so the shaft doesn't stick out so much. If they only came with one nut, then add another nut or add some washers inside the guitar.

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Did the pots come with two nuts each? If so, you can adjust the inner nut (inside the guitar) so the shaft doesn't stick out so much. If they only came with one nut, then add another nut or add some washers inside the guitar.

 

No, they didn't. The threaded part is exactly the right length. The lock washer inside and flat washer with nut ends up exactly flush with the top of the threads. It's the actual rotating shafts that are too long. Even the splines are the same depth as the splined hole in the existing knobs.

 

Good thoughts though.

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Would that be the same as these "witch hats"?

Guitar Parts Resource

Thomse was kidding. The knobs on your guitar are referred to as top hat knobs.

 

Unfortunately, they sell two different makes of them even as original Gibson spare parts. There are some with the hole edge in the center flush with the rim, and some with a recessed hole edge. I strictly recommend the latter.

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Thomse was kidding. The knobs on your guitar are referred to as top hat knobs.

 

Unfortunately, they sell two different makes of them even as original Gibson spare parts. There are some with the hole edge in the center flush with the rim, and some with a recessed hole edge. I strictly recommend the latter.

 

Aye, there's the rub! Identifying the proper depth knob without buying a bunch of them appears to be problematical, at best.

 

 

why no set screw knobs on split shaft posts? the screws will only go a very short distance into the split, then lock up like a dry engine.(may have to rotate the pots to get the desired "zero setting")

 

 

 

Well, you know you are absolutely correct. That would work. After seeing so many shafts over the years that were squished in from being pressed in on the side by a set screw, my paradigm was "set screws don't mix with split shafts".

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Well, you know you are absolutely correct. That would work. After seeing so many shafts over the years that were squished in from being pressed in on the side by a set screw, my paradigm was "set screws don't mix with split shafts".

 

I've got knobs on my Fender Squier Strat that have an inside sleeve and a set screw. So the screw doesn't really push all that hard on the split shaft sides.

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Aye, there's the rub! Identifying the proper depth knob without buying a bunch of them appears to be problematical, at best.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Well, you know you are absolutely correct. That would work. After seeing so many shafts over the years that were squished in from being pressed in on the side by a set screw, my paradigm was "set screws don't mix with split shafts".

 

yeah, it can be difficult, but if you can get the screw into the split, it spreads the 2 sides out into the knob and locks pretty quickly

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Just finished upgrading my Sherry with new pups, pots, switch, and jack. It's been quite an experience, with nothing going the way I thought it would in terms of metric versus standard electrics.

Surprisingly, my old knobs that came off the dime sized Asian pots slid right onto the shafts of the full sized CTS pots I installed.

However, the new shafts are a bit longer than the old ones, so the knobs have a huge gap between them and the guitar. I really can't afford to buy several sets of knobs trying to get something that fits right, so I'm hoping someone on here has some experience I can benefit from and a source for some new knobs.

The pots are split shafts, so no knobs with set screws. I prefer Gibson or Epi factory style knobs, as well. I don't have any experience with speed knobs, but I'm guessing they are not the solution I'm looking for.

 

IMAG0169_zpsxkkf2uz2.jpg

 

Thanks

 

Most Gibsons that I have seen are like this as are my Gibson LP and SG. I own Epis as well so I am familiar with the shorter posts and once I got used to the taller profile I kind of preferred it.

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Most Gibsons that I have seen are like this as are my Gibson LP and SG. I own Epis as well so I am familiar with the shorter posts and once I got used to the taller profile I kind of preferred it.

 

That's good to know. I already spent thirty bucks or so on an identical set of knobs, thinking the old ones wouldn't fit the CTS pots, so wasn't looking forward to spending more on something that might not work.

 

This guitar has been kind of an enigma for me. The bridge pup mounting ring was broken, so I ordered new, but had to order two different sets to get a curved ring for the bridge, but a flat ring for the neck.

All the pots and such are dime-sized Asian stuff, but the shafts are the same size as U.S. CTS pots. I figured they'd be metric.

Well, it's together now, and seems to be working really well. It is much louder now, due to the MUCH hotter pups - 12K and 17K vs. the 3.3K pups I removed, and the 300 ohm volume pots I installed.

I do have a slight hum that I didn't notice before, but I'll start a new thread to address that.

 

Thanks.

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