Jump to content
Gibson Brands Forums

Continuing Story of My 37 L-0 Neck Set....


BluesKing777

Recommended Posts

I have discussed getting a neck reset on my 37 L-0 here and on the UMGF Vintage area.

 

The fretboard is kaput and it needs a neck set, but sounds sensational.

 

Another stupid question for the repairers - I opened the case of my 52 LG1 to see the bridge has split right down the middle, so among a host of things including a neck set that needs to be done, I think the old LG1 is about 'finished'. It was finished when I bought it from Ebay years back, but I have used it to practice bottleneck slide in Open D tuning without having to lug the heavy Dobro around the house.

 

So will the neck of the LG1 fir on the 37 L-0?

 

Probably not, but I thought I would ask as the LG1 neck is pretty good apart from needing the neck set since about 1953! It is hard to say the old L-0 has a higher quality in the state the neck is in.....

 

 

BluesKing777.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • Replies 104
  • Created
  • Last Reply

I can't really see how it would be any less work than the reset and fingerboard replacement on the L0, and you'd end up with an L0 with a non-period correct neck and no LG. To do the transplant you'd have to remove two necks and refashion the dovetail on the LG neck to fit the L0. The L0 has the French heel where as you have the large heel on the LG, which would look a little out of place on a dainty L0, and more work again if you were to recontour it to the French style. That's just of the top of my head - there could be plenty more issues once you get the tape measure out.

 

If it were me I would put the LG up on Ebay as a project for someone else to bring back to life and use the money to get a period correct Brazilian RW fingerboard made for the L0.

 

I do love that L0 by the way, it has so much character!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

First BK, ya know I love you but you must be on puppy chow to even think of cannibalizing the LG-1 even as part of such a noble cause as bringing back an L-0.

 

Go have the neck reset and a new board made for the L-0. Heck, you might think about doing something outrageous and taking the opportunity to personalize the board with some cool inlays or something. Or just go traditional.

 

But I would rather buy the LG-1 from you and get the neck reset and have new bridge made and whatever else it needs done than see it sacrificed to the parts guitar Gods.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Please don't put the LG-1 neck on the L-0. You will mess up 2 guitars if you do that. You should get a neck set on the L-0 and have the fret board planed and repaired, or replaced in the process. The peg head can get an overlay of veneer and a repro logo. The dove tail on the L-0 is different from the LG-1

 

The bridge on the LG-1 can be easily repaired by having it removed and re-installed after the crack is glued. If it needs a neck set, get it done, or just continue to play it for slide.

 

These are not bank breaking repairs, if you find the right person.

 

There are several repair people on the UMGF that can give you an estimate.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Sage advice, 'Woof-

 

JB- Good to hear your optimism regarding the possibility of saving the bridge on the LG-1. I was just looking at the Bridge Saver system at Stew Mac. 'Should probably be called Bridgeplate Saver. BK- such a bittersweet photo, that detail shot of that bridge which has been aging on the top of that guitar for more than half a century. What does the br. plate look like?

 

Also- keep in mind BK's location, value of ladder-braced(?) LG-1, and other expenses involved in considering repairs; I don't think he's exactly tripping over qualified luthiers at every street corner.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My deepest sympathies, BK. Two guitars down in my house would be Defcon 1, but your little Martin will keep you afloat. I like the idea of getting what you can from the LG and putting it into the L0. Not sure why it was suggested your headstock logo would come into play. Have the bridge crack fixed before you market the LG though, as that will cause buyers to recoil in horror, even though it's not that big an issue. Just scary looking. If the bridge can be shaved and/or the saddle sanded down to make it closer to frettable, do that too. Include a complimentary capo and price it to sell.

 

Then change your phone number.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While gluing the bridge seems simple enough I can tell you from experience it is not always the best fix in the long run. First off, you have to know what caused the bridge to split. I know repair guys who will tell you depending on what caused the split you might also have to reinforce the bridge plate. Way too much constant tension on the bridge to take a chance.

 

I would just opt for replacing the thing. You can have the whole job done for less than what that Stewmac bridge saver tool would run you.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

While gluing the bridge seems simple enough I can tell you from experience it is not always the best fix in the long run. First off, you have to know what caused the bridge to split. I know repair guys who will tell you depending on what caused the split you might also have to reinforce the bridge plate. Way too much constant tension on the bridge to take a chance.

 

I would just opt for replacing the thing. You can have the whole job done for less than what that Stewmac bridge saver tool would run you.

 

Yeah...rethinking it, I'm down with Z's thoughts on bridge replacement, not glueing. Pretty much the same cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I would take the opportunity to learn some more and have a go myself at fixing the problems.

 

I have been banging and crashing out in the shed and I have managed to get both necks off - a bit of sanding and the LG1 neck will fit on the L-0 quite nicely, I think.

 

I will bang them all together later today after work - I will put the L-0 neck on the LG1.

 

 

BluesKing777.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I thought I would take the opportunity to learn some more and have a go myself at fixing the problems.

 

I have been banging and crashing out in the shed and I have managed to get both necks off - a bit of sanding and the LG1 neck will fit on the L-0 quite nicely, I think.

 

I will bang them all together later today after work - I will put the L-0 neck on the LG1.

 

 

BluesKing777.

 

Are you using finishing screws or just good ol' 10 penny sinkers? Glue it and screw it!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crap, just do a Kamikaze neck reset. Saw the things off and then bolt them on to whatever guitar you like. I have a couple of neck bolts that came out of 1960s Kays I will donate.

 

 

 

Fantastic!

 

 

Ebay: Vintage 1937/52 Taylor F/S $3,500 Firm.

 

 

 

BluesKing777.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Update:

 

 

 

The 37 L-0 is at the guitar tech/luthier's.......

 

Coming up: neck reset, new ebony fretboard, new ebony bridge and all the bits that are needed to make it sing!

 

 

52 LG1 is there as well - getting a new ebony bridge.

 

 

He has some beautiful ebony pieces for me!

 

 

Just a nervous few weeks to wait for the L-0..........LG1 will be back in a couple of days.

 

 

 

BluesKing777.

 

 

 

Lucky I have a couple of spare guitars to play....>>>>>>>>>> [biggrin] [biggrin] [biggrin] [biggrin] [biggrin] [biggrin] [biggrin]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VG BK! I'm really enjoying your latest Youtube diddies, too, though I can tile my bathroom waiting for my slow internet to load them. Also, looking forward to seeing those bridge screws disappear.

I'm on the brink of taking mine in for the reset, as well. The truss rod had been stuck forever and I miraculously coaxed it free by setting up a medievel looking clamping setup, directly applying pressure to straighten the head end of the neck. Then, when I didn't dare tighten the clamp anymore I turned the rod nut. It moved easily and took the little hook out of the upper half. Now, it's more clearly making a turn at the heel so there's no more denying it has to be shaved.

 

Don't know what bothers me more, the $400 bucks or the long wait. I can't afford the rebracing surgery yet, but it sounds terrific, so making it more playable takes precedent.

 

 

The Martin's gonna' get an accelerated break-in period, eh?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

VG BK! I'm really enjoying your latest Youtube diddies, too, though I can tile my bathroom waiting for my slow internet to load them. Also, looking forward to seeing those bridge screws disappear.

I'm on the brink of taking mine in for the reset, as well. The truss rod had been stuck forever and I miraculously coaxed it free by setting up a medievel looking clamping setup, directly applying pressure to straighten the head end of the neck. Then, when I didn't dare tighten the clamp anymore I turned the rod nut. It moved easily and took the little hook out of the upper half. Now, it's more clearly making a turn at the heel so there's no more denying it has to be shaved.

 

Don't know what bothers me more, the $400 bucks or the long wait. I can't afford the rebracing surgery yet, but it sounds terrific, so making it more playable takes precedent.

 

 

The Martin's gonna' get an accelerated break-in period, eh?

 

 

 

Waaaaaaa------yyyyyy more than $400 here! Get yours done before they all put the price up.

 

 

I am feeling nervous - but hopefully I will have a great sounding vintage Gibson that plays like a newy.

 

 

BluesKing777.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ahhh, so is the repair guy going to glue the board down to the top (giving you the little bump) or slap a shim in there?

 

 

I have no idea, ZW!

 

First, he has to get fretboard off, and neck, and who knows how that was glued/screwed on! It is a 'custom' job.

 

 

BluesKing777.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.


×
×
  • Create New...