G string # from the nut to the 12th fret

[goldtop1]

I've got huge problem with my Gibson Les Paul 'Studio' model. I think it's a 'Junior' too but it just says 'Studio' on the truss cover. Problem is I just put the .11 gauge DR Blues strings on and when I hit the A chord it sounds horrible. I strung it up a week ago and have played and retuned a couple times since.

 

I pinpointed the issue to the 'G' string. I got the tuner back out and the 2nd fret 'G' string is #. I've also discovered that every note from the nut to the 12th fret on the 'G' string is sharp. I'm using the Boss tuner TU-12EX. Is there something I can adjust back at the bridge to flatten notes? Is there some resources published somewhere that will explain this issue and other common issues with these guitars?

[capmaster]

I guess it came with a solid wraparound tailpiece. Those are compromised and may cause poor intonation. Replacement with an adjustable one is recommendable.

 

Some suggestions:

 

Hipshot Baby Grand:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Non-trem_Tailpiecess/Hipshot_Baby_Grand_Bridge_Chrome.html

 

Schaller bridge/tailpiece:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar/Non-trem_Bridges/Schaller_Bridge_Tailpiece.html

 

Pigtail aluminum wraparound bridge:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Non-trem_Tailpiecess/Pigtail_Aluminum_Wraparound_Bridge.html

 

Hope this helps.

[goldtop1]

I guess it came with a solid wraparound tailpiece. Those are compromised and may cause poor intonation. Replacement with an adjustable one is recommendable.

 

Some suggestions:

 

Hipshot Baby Grand:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Non-trem_Tailpiecess/Hipshot_Baby_Grand_Bridge_Chrome.html

 

Schaller bridge/tailpiece:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Electric_Guitar/Non-trem_Bridges/Schaller_Bridge_Tailpiece.html

 

Pigtail aluminum wraparound bridge:

http://www.stewmac.com/Hardware_and_Parts/All_Hardware_and_Parts_by_Instrument/Electric_Guitar/Bridges_and_Tailpieces/Non-trem_Tailpiecess/Pigtail_Aluminum_Waparound_Bridge.html

No mate, it's the Gibson Bridge and Stop bar. I would assume that adjusting the saddle screw would adjust the pitch.

 

Hope this helps.

[rct]

You need to learn how to intonate a guitar. Good luck.

 

rct

[goldtop1]

You need to learn how to intonate a guitar. Good luck.

 

rct

I know how to, but I just dread it. It kills me really. I need some beer to do this. Thanks

[goldtop1]

You need to learn how to intonate a guitar. Good luck.

 

rct

I went through some cheaper pawn shop guitars before I got this one and I had to do it couple of times. When you get one from a Pawn Shop they're pretty bad.

[Eracer_Team]

um.. intonation of the guitar isn't that hard and shouldn't need a beer , you need a small flat screw driver

 

and since you say its only the G that's sharp.. then its only 1 screw that needs to be turned so the saddle moves to-wards the bridge.

[rct]

I know how to, but I just dread it. It kills me really. I need some beer to do this. Thanks

 

k, well, I'm sorry to hear that. There's always golf I guess.

 

rct

[goldtop1]

um.. intonation of the guitar isn't that hard and shouldn't need a beer , you need a small flat screw driver

 

and since you say its only the G that's sharp.. then its only 1 screw that needs to be turned so the saddle moves to-wards the bridge.

I've noticed a small groove in some of these frets. Could that be the reason? Some of the other frets have flattened out too.

[goldtop1]

I've noticed a small groove in some of these frets. Could that be the reason? Some of the other frets have flattened out too.

I don't think adjusting the saddle screws is the way to go because those are set to the radius of the fret board with fine tuning tools and measuring gauges. The dial knobs will raise and lower the action but that wouldn't change the pitch on the 2nd 'A' on the G.

[goldtop1]

k, well, I'm sorry to hear that. There's always golf I guess.

 

rct

The problem is that I'm so active with it that the metal frets are wearing down. I've had guitars pretty bad before this one and they just wind up in the back of a closet. You begin to wonder if the bridge screws will fix the issue but I believe that even a small groove in one of the frets could cause the pitch to be sharp. What eventually happens is that the string being pressed into the neck begins to flatten the fret out.

Cheers Mate

[capmaster]

The problem is that I'm so active with it that the metal frets are wearing down. I've had guitars pretty bad before this one and they just wind up in the back of a closet. You begin to wonder if the bridge screws will fix the issue but I believe that even a small groove in one of the frets could cause the pitch to be sharp. What eventually happens is that the string being pressed into the neck begins to flatten the fret out.

Cheers Mate

Pressing strings hard when fretting will always cause pitches going sharp. It's just about touching them, a bit harder while plucking, then holding them softly in place.

 

Fret wires are eaten up by forceful bendings grinding down the fret crowns, and by too fast action making the strings bounce onto the frets numerous times per attack and cut grooves into them.

 

As a consequence, the fret crown becomes wider while getting lower the same time. Either increased width and a longer way from open action down to the fret will make for sharp pitches.

 

Think of Brian May's definitive main guitar, the original Red Special built between 1963 and 1965. In 2007 they replaced the zero fret, all the other twenty-four frets are still original.

[rct]

I don't think adjusting the saddle screws is the way to go because those are set to the radius of the fret board with fine tuning tools and measuring gauges. The dial knobs will raise and lower the action but that wouldn't change the pitch on the 2nd 'A' on the G.

 

k, well, I've said it before, and after sentences above I'll say it again:

 

You need to learn how to intonate a guitar.

 

Good luck bro.

 

rct

[dReit1]

/\ /\ /\ /\

 

Yup! What he said. Several times.

[deeman]

k, well, I've said it before, and after sentences above I'll say it again:

 

You need to learn how to intonate a guitar.

 

Good luck bro.

 

rct

 

Or pay someone else to do it like i do!

[kidblast]

The fret wear would have to be extreme to cancel out any improvements intonation can offer.

 

that picture you posted does not look extreme at all in fact, I would bet you 20 bucks with 0000 steel wool, (and of course, first covering the masking the fret board between frets with masking tape) you could buff those little wear marks right out.

 

 

There is really nothing hard about intonation brother goldtop.

 

1. 
    
   
2. new strings
   
3. good tuner
   
4. a little bit of know how
   
5. a screw driver
   
6. patience
   

 

I guess Patience is the missing element?

 

 

However, consider that the problem is often a combination of saddle adjustments, and perhaps some regulation of the nut, and sting slots on the saddles. If the guitar has never been properly setup, now could be the time!

[BigKahune]

I don't think adjusting the saddle screws is the way to go because those are set to the radius of the fret board with fine tuning tools and measuring gauges. ...

 

. .

 

The adjusting screws for the saddles have nothing to do with matching the fretboard radius. The saddles are adjustable so that the length of the string can be changed to properly intonate the guitar (shorter=sharper, longer=flatter). I'm with rct - read an article or two on proper intonation, or watch an instructional intonation video on YouTube.

 

 

.

[goldtop1]

The fret wear would have to be extreme to cancel out any improvements intonation can offer.

 

that picture you posted does not look extreme at all in fact, I would bet you 20 bucks with 0000 steel wool, (and of course, first covering the masking the fret board between frets with masking tape) you could buff those little wear marks right out.

 

 

There is really nothing hard about intonation brother goldtop.

 

1. 
    
   
2. new strings
   
3. good tuner
   
4. a little bit of know how
   
5. a screw driver
   
6. patience
   

 

I guess Patience is the missing element?

 

 

However, consider that the problem is often a combination of saddle adjustments, and perhaps some regulation of the nut, and sting slots on the saddles. If the guitar has never been properly setup, now could be the time!

The steel wool thing is a fallacy. Have you ever tried it? It would take hours to get anywhere. Bad advise. No one should use the 'steel wool' method. Ask Gibson. It's not practical. The frets should have the same crown height. It's time for a fret job.

 

The guitar is set up at the factory with the height of the frets in mind. Everything sounded great when I got it. The saddle pieces are set to the curvature of the neck. They use a gauge. You can get them at Stew Mac. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Measuring/Understring_Radius_Gauges.html

As far as the saddle adjustment. I'd try for perfect fret crowns before I adjusted that because it might be fretwear that is creating a # pitch.

[rct]

The steel wool thing is a fallacy. Have you ever tried it? It would take hours to get anywhere. Bad advise. No one should use the 'steel wool' method. Ask Gibson. It's not practical. The frets should have the same crown height. It's time for a fret job.

 

The guitar is set up at the factory with the height of the frets in mind. Everything sounded great when I got it. The saddle pieces are set to the curvature of the neck. They use a gauge. You can get them at Stew Mac. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Measuring/Understring_Radius_Gauges.html

As far as the saddle adjustment. I'd try for perfect fret crowns before I adjusted that because it might be fretware that is creating a # pitch.

 

You try recrowning those frets as an intonation adjustment. By all means, please let me know how that works out for you, as I seem to know absolutely nothing about guitars after nearly 45 years around them. Thanks.

 

rct

[deeman]

The steel wool thing is a fallacy. Have you ever tried it? It would take hours to get anywhere. Bad advise. No one should use the 'steel wool' method. Ask Gibson. It's not practical. The frets should have the same crown height. It's time for a fret job.

 

The guitar is set up at the factory with the height of the frets in mind. Everything sounded great when I got it. The saddle pieces are set to the curvature of the neck. They use a gauge. You can get them at Stew Mac. http://www.stewmac.com/Luthier_Tools/Tools_by_Job/Measuring/Understring_Radius_Gauges.html

As far as the saddle adjustment. I'd try for perfect fret crowns before I adjusted that because it might be fretware that is creating a # pitch.

 

I wouldn't worry about your frets, just take the thing in for a set-up, it'll cost you like 30 bucks and your guitar will play like new.

[pippy]

Where's the popcorn?.........

 

P.

[Guest Farnsbarns]

Where's the popcorn?.........

 

P.

 

Here, share mine....

 

Got to love it when the nonsense is stated as fact!

 

@ the op. Either learn to adjust intonation or get a set up. You may need a fret job but that ain't gonna fix your intonation. Since no one has said it, beware that guitars use an even tempered scale which is wrong from the start. Fine, but in terms of physics and the accompanying maths, it's wrong, then there is the physics of the instrument making perfect intonation, even taking the tempered scale in to account, impossible. Now obviously you are hearing an issue which means your intonation (not fret crowns) needs an adjustemnt but don't expect every fret to produce the perfect note as measured with a tuner, even after a set up by the best luthier in the world.

 

It's true to say that the sadles set the string radius but that's done by filing the tops down, not by adjusting the screws which are for intonation. I have taken divots out of frets with steel wool and/or sandpaper many times over the last 25 (aprox) years. Have you tried it?

[goldtop1]

You try recrowning those frets as an intonation adjustment. By all means, please let me know how that works out for you, as I seem to know absolutely nothing about guitars after nearly 45 years around them. Thanks.

 

rct

I've never heard of a 're-crowning'. I've heard of a fret dressing which is a very complex process. If you can get a tech to do it for $200 you'd be lucky. They would usually adjust the intonation then. I barely ever even play after the 12th fret so I would only need to have em replaced to the 12th fret. The wear for me is usually around the 'A','B','C' on the G string. Certain players wear the frets in certain places.

[deeman]

Like i said, don't worry about your frets, they're fine, just get a set up for the sake of all that is holy!!

[rct]

I've never heard of a 're-crowning'. I've heard of a fret dressing which is a very complex process. If you can get a tech to do it for $200 you'd be lucky. They would usually adjust the intonation then. I barely ever even play after the 12th fret so I would only need to have em replaced to the 12th fret. The wear for me is usually around the 'A','B','C' on the G string. Certain players wear the frets in certain places.

 

Ok. re-crowning was me saying fret dressing. It isn't really exactly all that complex, and you could buy the tools for way less than 200 and do all of your guitars yourself for the rest of yer days. Many of us do you know.

 

rct