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Correcting nib separation on Les Pauls


btoth76

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Posted

Hello!

 

I had gaps between frets and the nibs both sides of the fretboard on my Classic Custom. It was like that from day one.

 

Unfortunately, we don't have a local authorized Gibson dealership, so my local shop mail-orders them from the nearest Gibson selling shop. So I had to settle on what I got then...

 

The luthier, - I used to take my intruments to - said it cannot be repaired, it needs complete refret, with nibs shaved off.

 

So, I did some research on the net...Most of the people seem to go with super glue method. I didn't wanted to take the risk of messing up the fretboard with a toothpick dipped into super glue and my shaking hands. Then, - my good friend - Pippy suggested melting them with a blade against the fret ends.

 

After long months of hesitation, I finally collected all my courage and took a big breath.

 

It turned so great, that there are no visible signs of the repair. And it was so easy to do! The whole operation went so smoothly, I can't imagine why I was so afraid to do it. I wish I did that long ago...

 

For now, I did it only on the treble side - obviously, it's only a issue there. The thick low-E string never gets caught by the gap on the other side. However, just because of visuals, I will do that on the bass side when the next string change comes. If anyone else is interested about the process, I'll document it and present here.

 

One happy Classic Custom owner... Thanks Pippy for the suggestion!!! :)

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

Hello!

 

I had gaps between frets and the nibs both sides of the fretboard on my Classic Custom. It was like that from day one.

 

Unfortunately, we don't have a local authorized Gibson dealership, so my local shop mail-orders them from the nearest Gibson selling shop. So I had to settle on what I got then...

 

The luthier, - I used to take my intruments to - said it cannot be repaired, it needs complete refret, with nibs shaved off.

 

So, I did some research on the net...Most of the people seem to go with super glue method. I didn't wanted the risk of messing up the fretboard with a toothpick dipped into super glue and my shaking hands. Then, - my good friend - Pippy suggested melting them with a blade against the fret ends.

 

After long months of hesitation, I finally collected all my courage and took a big breath.

 

It turned so great, that there are no visible signs of the repair. And it was so easy to do! The whole operation went so smoothly, I can't imagine why I was so afraid to do it. I wish I did that long ago...

 

For now, I did it only on the treble side - obviously, it's only a issue there. The thick low-E string never gets caught by the gap on the other side. However, just because of visuals, I will do that on the bass side when the string change comes. If anyone else is interested about the process, I'll document it and present here.

 

One happy Classic Custom owner... Thanks Pippy for the suggestion!!! :)

 

Cheers... Bence

 

That's great news, Bence. Congrats on getting settled. Please do post details. My nibs are fine, but if separation develops I would like to have a tried/true process to take care of it.

Posted

That's great news, Bence. Congrats on getting settled. Please do post details. My nibs are fine, but if separation develops I would like to have a tried/true process to take care of it.

 

Thank You!

 

I will document the whole process with photos then...probably, in a month of time (or a bit more).

 

However, if it is urgent for someone, feel free to contact me. :)

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

Congrats, Bence, glad you got it made that nicely. [thumbup]

 

Perhaps the neck and/or fretboard timber was slightly dryer during manufacturing? I don't think you live in a region where excessive humidity would make woods expand that much. Fortunately, all of my nibs are fine, but nonetheless I look forward to your documentation. One can never know! [smile]

Posted

Cool! I'd like to see that too!

 

Hello Deeman!

 

By the time, I thought of taking snaps, it was already dark. The photos I took at artificial light doesn't show it at all.

I definitely do it next time, when I will work on the bass side.

 

Congrats, Bence, glad you got it made that nicely. [thumbup]

 

Perhaps the neck and/or fretboard timber was slightly dryer during manufacturing? I don't think you live in a region where excessive humidity would make woods expand that much. Fortunately, all of my nibs are fine, but nonetheless I look forward to your documentation. One can never know! [smile]

 

Hello Capmaster!

 

I live in a valley, within mountains. The humidity reached 75% in the recent days. Still, I have never experienced any problems. My other guitar with bound fretboard - The LP Recording - doesn't show any signs of wood expansion. The Classic Custom was bought with this issue. The binding did not separate from the fretboard at all. It seemed like the frets were cut too short.

 

Best wishes... Bence

Posted

Hello Deeman!

 

By the time, I thought of taking snaps, it was already dark. The photos I took at artificial light doesn't show it at all.

I definitely do it next time, when I will work on the bass side.

 

 

 

Hello Capmaster!

 

I live in a valley, within mountains. The humidity reached 75% in the recent days. Still, I have never experienced any problems. My other guitar with bound fretboard - The LP Recording - doesn't show any signs of wood expansion. The Classic Custom was bought with this issue. The binding did not separate from the fretboard at all. It seemed like the frets were cut too short.

 

Best wishes... Bence

If the timbers were just right, it have to be the frets. Perhaps they were shifted one fret upward by mistake?

 

Wacthing relative humidity here at the moment, it is ranging from 64 to 68% on the four gauges in my room, located at the edges of my guitar storage. Nice conditions so far, and it never is below 40% in winter, too.

 

There is the junction of a creek and a canal including a weir close east to the house I live in. In the west is a mountain forest making the sun set more than an hour earlier in the average throughout the seasons. North is a swamp, and not far south is the Isar river. This all makes it rather humid here, too, but I think in general it is nice for tonewoods without any additional humidifying. [thumbup]

Posted

Nice!

 

I hope you lengthened the tenon while you were at it. [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

 

rct

You're a pretty nasty mocker, RCT! [lol] [lol] [lol]

Posted

Nice!

 

I hope you lengthened the tenon while you were at it. [laugh] [laugh] [laugh]

 

rct

 

Hello Rct!

 

Shall I post pics of that too? :D

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

Definitely. I've never seen the European Tenon Stretcher, I hear they are much nicer than the American ones!

 

rct

Posted

Definitely. I've never seen the European Tenon Stretcher, I hear they are much nicer than the American ones!

 

rct

 

Depends on which part of Europe.

 

Scandinavians are best at it. They fight depression caused by the darkness by stretching their tenons.

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

Hello!

 

I had gaps between frets and the nibs both sides of the fretboard on my Classic Custom. It was like that from day one.

 

Unfortunately, we don't have a local authorized Gibson dealership, so my local shop mail-orders them from the nearest Gibson selling shop. So I had to settle on what I got then...

 

The luthier, - I used to take my intruments to - said it cannot be repaired, it needs complete refret, with nibs shaved off.

 

So, I did some research on the net...Most of the people seem to go with super glue method. I didn't wanted to take the risk of messing up the fretboard with a toothpick dipped into super glue and my shaking hands. Then, - my good friend - Pippy suggested melting them with a blade against the fret ends.

 

After long months of hesitation, I finally collected all my courage and took a big breath.

 

It turned so great, that there are no visible signs of the repair. And it was so easy to do! The whole operation went so smoothly, I can't imagine why I was so afraid to do it. I wish I did that long ago...

 

For now, I did it only on the treble side - obviously, it's only a issue there. The thick low-E string never gets caught by the gap on the other side. However, just because of visuals, I will do that on the bass side when the next string change comes. If anyone else is interested about the process, I'll document it and present here.

 

One happy Classic Custom owner... Thanks Pippy for the suggestion!!! :)

 

Cheers... Bence

 

I'm extremely interested in this as I need to do the same to "Blue" my 2004 LP Standard LE. I'm very nervous about attempting the super glue method for the same reason you stated, I'm afraid I'll get glue all over everything I don't want it on with my shaky hands...

 

I really want to see your documentary so I can understand how/what you you did!

Posted

I'm extremely interested in this as I need to do the same to "Blue" my 2004 LP Standard LE. I'm very nervous about attempting the super glue method for the same reason you stated, I'm afraid I'll get glue all over everything I don't want it on with my shaky hands...

 

I really want to see your documentary so I can understand how/what you you did!

 

Hello Jimi!

 

I am going to do the bass side on the weekend. Unfortunately, I don`t have a video recorder...so I can only document it with photos. (Anyways, I am going to try to borrow one).

 

Next monday, I will post the results and the process.

 

Best wishes... Bence

Posted

Hello!

 

Not the best way to document the process, a video would be better. Unfortunately, I couldn`t manage to get one. So, I try to explain and show it with photos instead.

 

This is the problem:

HPIM5041_zps21842b15.jpg

 

There's a gap between the fret-ends and the nibs. The binding did not separate from the fretboard. As I mentioned earlier, it came like this...

 

Please note: the best timing for this repair is when fret-levelling becomes necessary!

 

The tools You need are: a small, handy knife with rigid blade; a candle; some paper towels; and a small file.

 

I found this knife suitable for the operation:

HPIM5051_zps0b5c2c21.jpg

 

...

Posted

Warm up the tip (the last 5-6 millimetres) of the blade over the candle. Holding it over the flame for 3-4 seconds is enough. Then, quickly wipe off the burn residues from the blade with paper towel.

 

Push the nib against the fret-end with the tip of the blade. While doing this, hold the blade parallel to the surface of the nib! If the angle of the blade is closer to perpendicular to the fretboard, it will damage the nibs! Rather, hold the blade, with it's top edge very slightly leaning towards the frets.

 

Do this within 2 seconds, not to melt the nibs too much. It's better to start on the bass side of the guitar, to gain experience, and only then progress on the treble side - where it is more critical, as strings get caught much easier there.

 

HPIM5056_zps9d1e138f.jpg

 

...

Posted

Then comes the file!

 

Find a small, fine file - handy enough to be easily controlled.

 

The first thing to achieve is to blend the nibs and the fret-ends. They must perfectly in level.

 

Be very careful not to damage the fretboard or the binding!

 

Gently slide the file over the curve of the nib. You'll feel when the file hits the metal (of the fret). That is the point to focus on! Repeat this step until, the nib and the fret-end is in level.

 

Observe the work done twice, file once!!!

 

You are doing it correctly, if no more than around half of a millimeter of the fret-end has filing marks! Don't go beyond that, or You'll lose playing surface!

 

Also blend the side of the nibs! Use masking tape on fretboard, if You are not confident enough. (I used my thumb to guide the file).

 

Remove filing marks from frets with 2500-grit polishing paper.

 

HPIM5068_zpsf8b4187b.jpg

 

Good luck... Bence

Posted

Thanks Bence. I think that was clear enough without a video.

 

Hello!

 

You are welcome and thank You too!

 

It is really not complicated, it only takes common sense and courage. :D

 

But, - definitely - for best results, it is best to do it prior to fret-levelling. Or, - at least - crowning, since some filing to the fret-ends beings done, and it is very easy to overdo that step...

 

Cheers... Bence

Posted

Hello Jimi!

 

I am going to do the bass side on the weekend. Unfortunately, I don`t have a video recorder...so I can only document it with photos. (Anyways, I am going to try to borrow one).

 

Next monday, I will post the results and the process.

 

Best wishes... Bence

 

Yessir, that was just fine without the video!

 

I will be trying this!

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