StLucifer Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I brought in this 1936 (I think) Gibson L00 to a luthier. The bridge doesn't appear original, it's bigger than the ones I've seen on other 1930's Gibson L00 guitars. The luthier found another vintage Gibson L00 that has an identical bridge that is on the one I bought. Did Gibson possibly use different types of bridges on the same models of guitars? I'm getting him to make an original bridge, but he thinks that the one on it just might be stock from Gibson. Any thoughts folks? Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slimt Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Hi.. are you close to a long and mc quade? see if they can order one in for you.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Any good luthier can replicate the original bridge. These are different from most modern bridges, in that the bridge is tapered: higher on the bass side than the treble side. It isn't so obvious in this picture, but the bridge is a full 1/8" thicker on the bass side than the treble side. What this does is give a consistent string break angle across the bridge, despite the saddle angle in plan view. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Here's a link to where you'll probably find the right tuners. Check out set 353. I have a rectangular BRW bridge that came off a '35 L00 I'm thinking of parting with. PM me if you'd like. http://www.guitar-repair.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Not sure why you think you need an "original" type bridge to get a "proper" neck reset but that rectangular bridge with the thicker bass side J45nick described was used by Gibson though the 1940s (my 1946 LG-2 has the same bridge). Personally, I would just have a bridge made. The bent tab Kluson strip tuners that Gibson started using around 1937 were standard on tons of guitars including Kays, Regals and such. I have found the best way to score an original set is to buy some el cheapo guitar in crappy shape that has them. I have snagged several sets of late 1930s to early 1940s Klusons this way for under $30. You generally just need to clean and lube them and often replace the buttons. But again, there are also the Antique Acoustic reproduction tuners which a lot of guys restoring old guitars have been using. The Stewmac Golden Age tuners are also very nice replacements. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 By the way, Nick and Zomby make the point that my luthier also agrees with, that being it's wise to get a bridge made by the guy who's going to put it on, for the sake of proper fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 By the way, Nick and Zomby make the point that my luthier also agrees with, that being it's wise to get a bridge made by the guy who's going to put it on, for the sake of proper fit. That is how I have always had it done when the guitar came with a non-original bridge and an inky neck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 By the way, Nick and Zomby make the point that my luthier also agrees with, that being it's wise to get a bridge made by the guy who's going to put it on, for the sake of proper fit. I did exactly that with my 1948 J-45, with the luthier replacing a later adjustable bridge at the same time he did a neck re-set. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zombywoof Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 Sometimes, like with my pre-Gibson Epiphone, you just can't find a new bridge that is even close to the original so the only option available, if you want the replacement to look like the old one, is to have one made. With me it all depends on the guitar. Sometimes I care and other times I do not and just want the thing playable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
StLucifer Posted November 9, 2014 Author Share Posted November 9, 2014 I just bought this guitar. Amazingly great condition for a 1936 Gibson L-00. There is only a number 77 in faded red pencil, no serial number, so it was made during the war. Sometime in in 1936, they introduced back binding on L-00, this one has only front binding. No cracks at all ever on this. The neck is in very good shape. The original bridge was replaced and the tuners were replaced. If anyone has a bridge and/or tuners for this, please sell them to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted November 9, 2014 Share Posted November 9, 2014 I just bought this guitar. Amazingly great condition for a 1936 Gibson L-00. There is only a number 77 in faded red pencil, no serial number, so it was made during the war. Sometime in in 1936, they introduced back binding on L-00, this one has only front binding. No cracks at all ever on this. The neck is in very good shape. The original bridge was replaced and the tuners were replaced. If anyone has a bridge and/or tuners for this, please sell them to me. Can't access your photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKing777 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Yep, need the photos! I don't give repair advice normally, but I would check the existing specs of the nut, bridge and do a bit of research in to the original specs....... sometimes 1 3/4" nut, sometimes 2 3/8 " bridge spacing........but those are the best figures for fingerpicking..... BluesKing777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKing777 Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 Any good luthier can replicate the original bridge. These are different from most modern bridges, in that the bridge is tapered: higher on the bass side than the treble side. It isn't so obvious in this picture, but the bridge is a full 1/8" thicker on the bass side than the treble side. What this does is give a consistent string break angle across the bridge, despite the saddle angle in plan view. OWF will fall off his stool, but do you have a nice photo of your nut on the L-00 Legend, Nick? My L-0 goes back for its check up after the reset and that, and I was considering getting the string spacing on the nut widened a whisker, another new nut I suppose, just to get a bit more for open chords - the 2nd and 1st string need a bit more for Gary Davis type C chords..... I have a bit of room before the string would slide over the fretboard, I think? I was also thinking of ebony like the original nut. The new nut is approx 3 whiskers too high, but I could just live with it all, if I wasn't going back......... BluesKing777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
j45nick Posted November 10, 2014 Share Posted November 10, 2014 OWF will fall off his stool, but do you have a nice photo of your nut on the L-00 Legend, Nick? BluesKing777. I don't have a photo of it, but it's a dull black plastic of some kind. String spacing is 38 mm on centers at the nut. E strings are set in 3 mm from edge of board at the nut. Nut is 44+ mm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKing777 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 I don't have a photo of it, but it's a dull black plastic of some kind. String spacing is 38 mm on centers at the nut. E strings are set in 3 mm from edge of board at the nut. Nut is 44+ mm. No photo???? What??? Kidding...thanks Nick - I will give these measurements to the Tech! See what he says! BluesKing777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKing777 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 My L-0 is gone to stay at the guitar tech's for its first oil change. I forgot to tell him, it likes a blanket and the tv on until about 11........ BluesKing777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jedzep Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 No sign of mine. I'm doing my best to quietly wait but ...going on 3 months. I didn't realize it might have to go back in for a 'tuneup'. What adjustments will you guy make? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluesKing777 Posted November 11, 2014 Share Posted November 11, 2014 No sign of mine. I'm doing my best to quietly wait but ...going on 3 months. I didn't realize it might have to go back in for a 'tuneup'. What adjustments will you guy make? Still waiting? Mine was close to 4 months too! So many things were changed - neck set, fretboard, frets, nut, bridge, saddle, tuners - that he suggested bringing it back after a few weeks, but it has been a couple months! I don't like it leaving home! While there, I'm getting a newer nut with the spacing stretched closer to the edge of the board, to facilitate some Gary Davis.....easier....action needs a tweak and some glue has dried hard along the join between fretboard and neck - no big deal....some glue added to a split in the lower bout, not new.... I could have left it as is, but after all the work, we may as well try for perfection! (The fretboard and frets are fabulous after the old wreck). Hang in there JZ! BluesKing777. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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