stein Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Yeah that nut doesn't look too healthy.. But hard to tell from pictures sometimes... A good nut should be cut straight at on the fretboard side and then a small slope down the back towards the headstock.. And the strings ideally should be like half sat in the slot and half above (ish) and obviously be thick enough to seat the string properly with a rounded seat so the string sits flat on the nut. Really in a way you almost want the least amount of full contact possible with the nut but enough to keep it from pinging out if you want to bend a string (or you strum REALLY hard) :) You sure? I think the string should make the MOST amount of full contact. The more area underneath the string, the less friction is concentrated on that one important spot. Nuts that have the same amount of pressure on both the fretboard side and the tuner side methinks. And also, no chance of vibrating within the slot. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Hello Stein! I am with Rabs on that. I believe (and readed from pro luthiers) that minimal contact should be achieved. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I took a picture of the nut and the G slot. I am including it along with an image of the B. Hello! What we see there, are properly shaped nut slots. The problem is that they are cut wide at the contact point (inner edge of the nut)! Someone was overdoing the job. Replace the nut. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 You sure? I think the string should make the MOST amount of full contact. The more area underneath the string, the less friction is concentrated on that one important spot. Nuts that have the same amount of pressure on both the fretboard side and the tuner side methinks. And also, no chance of vibrating within the slot. Heres a good pic that I think shows it well.. So what I was talking about is B where theres more contact with the nut than necessary... You only want the string to contact the very top of the nut. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 I took a picture of the nut and the G slot. I am including it along with an image of the B. From your pic.. and this is a guess cos I cant see it fully I reckon this is whats going on A.. there seems to be a small slope right at that point, which should be flat on the nuts edge so the string is sitting on it and the very first point of contact should be right at the edge of the nut.. This will actually effect your scale length a tiny bit B.. this is where the main contact seems to be.. cos it looks like you can see a small gap below the string between points A and B C.. I bet this is the area where the main binding is going on (the pic of the B slot doesn't look as bad as the G) Also you can buy nice pre-slotted nuts online... they are really easy to replace.. just make sure you get the right size and they should just slot straight in.. Heres a top shot of one of my Gibbies.. (its as close as I could get :)) You can see the slots are cut in a much more uniform shape and I tried to get a shot of the edge so you can see :) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Greg1967 Posted April 16, 2015 Author Share Posted April 16, 2015 From your pic.. and this is a guess cos I cant see it fully I reckon this is whats going on A.. there seems to be a small slope right at that point, which should be flat on the nuts edge so the string is sitting on it and the very first point of contact should be right at the edge of the nut.. This will actually effect your scale length a tiny bit B.. this is where the main contact seems to be.. cos it looks like you can see a small gap below the string between points A and B C.. I bet this is the area where the main binding is going on (the pic of the B slot doesn't look as bad as the G) Also you can buy nice pre-slotted nuts online... they are really easy to replace.. just make sure you get the right size and they should just slot straight in.. Thanks for the effort of point all this out. I am in agreement. Especially with Area "C". It looks as though the string is actually even bent to the point where it looks as though it is what I would call wrinkling. Where there are small ripples in the circumference of the string. I took some 2k grit sandpaper to it last night and made a big improvement. However, I didn't most likely get the slope area you pointed on in Area "A". I am going to get some fine micro files this evening and take another stab at it. If I mess it p then so be it. I am ordering a pre-slotted nut from Stew Mac. I am thinking the TUSQ XL. They seem to have good reviews. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Thanks for the effort of point all this out. I am in agreement. Especially with Area "C". It looks as though the string is actually even bent to the point where it looks as though it is what I would call wrinkling. Where there are small ripples in the circumference of the string. I took some 2k grit sandpaper to it last night and made a big improvement. However, I didn't most likely get the slope area you pointed on in Area "A". I am going to get some fine micro files this evening and take another stab at it. If I mess it p then so be it. I am ordering a pre-slotted nut from Stew Mac. I am thinking the TUSQ XL. They seem to have good reviews. No worries man.. That's what we are here for :) And yes those Tusq nuts are GREAT.. Its what I normally use on my builds.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Great pics, RABS. Certainly explains a lot. But still, I don't agree with the "little contact as.." demonstration. I'll tell you why: Actually, let me start over. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stein Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Heres a good pic that I think shows it well.. So what I was talking about is B where theres more contact with the nut than necessary... You only want the string to contact the very top of the nut. Here, look at "c". THIS shows the string in a smooth arc over the nut. "A" and "B" show a sharp corner. This actually doesn't happen. I mean, you cut the nut like shown in "B", and the result will be as pictured in "C". But here's the thing: if you DON'T have a good exit point (the tuner side of the nut), you end up with a string that is coming over the slot. See the pic of the OP's nut compared to yours. So, cutting the slot and having a gradual fall off is fine, doesn't hurt, but you still need a "slot" or a spot where the string exits toward the tuner side. The most important illustration is "D". How the string actually sits, fits in the slot is going to be nearly all the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rabs Posted April 16, 2015 Share Posted April 16, 2015 Here, look at "c". THIS shows the string in a smooth arc over the nut. "A" and "B" show a sharp corner. This actually doesn't happen. I mean, you cut the nut like shown in "B", and the result will be as pictured in "C". But here's the thing: if you DON'T have a good exit point (the tuner side of the nut), you end up with a string that is coming over the slot. See the pic of the OP's nut compared to yours. So, cutting the slot and having a gradual fall off is fine, doesn't hurt, but you still need a "slot" or a spot where the string exits toward the tuner side. The most important illustration is "D". How the string actually sits, fits in the slot is going to be nearly all the difference. Yes indeed... The slot has to be long enough to seat it properly on both sides... But then what I think I am talking about is the shape of the back of the nut... So if you look at C on that image, if say the nut was cut with a more shallow dip (towards the headstock side) the string will run along it till the end of the nut.. That would be bad... And I don't think the pic of the G slot that the OP posted is quite that bad, BUT I think its longer than it should be and is probably leaving the nut under where the letter G is on that picture (man these things are hard to explain exactly) :)... So it should indeed sit on the top of the nut but should leave it like its shown on that diagram ( C )... and in saying ALL of this.. this is not really an exact science we are talking tiny degrees of difference between a nut that works properly and one that doesnt.. Ive seen a few times, nuts that are just straight and don't have a curve on the back like a LP nut, and yet they still work ok (but then I think the headstock angle on those guitars are less than a LP)... So it can also depend on the guitar... But for a LP I think the way shown in C and as you say the way its seated in D is most important. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted April 30, 2015 Share Posted April 30, 2015 Chimin' in: I've found I have a "ping!" problem on the G string. Didn't have it when I bought the V, but humidity's gone up since (Swede here). Could that be why? The ping only happens when I tune up the first time in a session. Then it's A-OK. I put it back in the case, leave it be for coupla days, and it goes ping when I take it out again. Once. I'm only really concerned about damage to the nut, since it tunes up and down beautifully after the initial ping. I have a feeling I needn't be. Thought I'd check with you guys anyway. Gotta say, this is a great forum Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted May 6, 2015 Share Posted May 6, 2015 Hello! The G string on Gibsons is most notorious for tuning problems. Your problem is caused by sticking nut. Apply some graphite shavings to the nut slot, and the problem is gone for a good time. I have/had this problem on every Gibson I have/had. It's always the G string. It is caused by the way slots are cut. They are not done in the best way for the break angles of the G string after the nut. Cheers... Bence Sticking nut here too, I guess. When I take it out and tune up, there's that pop. Only the first time after it's out of the case, then it's fine until the next day. I.e, goes back in the case, then I take it back out another day, and pop goes the G string the first time I tune up - the first time only. Don't have any graphite handy, thinking of getting it fixed when I take it in this summer. Just a minor annoyance, since it only pops the first time I tune up. I couldn't damage the nut by not getting it fixed straight away, could I? Bit short of time atm. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
btoth76 Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Sticking nut here too, I guess. When I take it out and tune up, there's that pop. Only the first time after it's out of the case, then it's fine until the next day. I.e, goes back in the case, then I take it back out another day, and pop goes the G string the first time I tune up - the first time only. Don't have any graphite handy, thinking of getting it fixed when I take it in this summer. Just a minor annoyance, since it only pops the first time I tune up. I couldn't damage the nut by not getting it fixed straight away, could I? Bit short of time atm. Hello! Exactly, when I am tuning up before practicing, it pings and goes sharp. Then, I turn the tuning peg back a bit (half-note flat) and raise the pitch back to G. That is it. On my Les Paul Recording, I have a set of strings now with a wound G string. Surprisingly, the problem disappeared. Not to mention it sounds more powerful. No, I don't think it will do any damage if You leave the nut like that for a while. At least, I haven't experienced anything like that on my other Gibsons. But You can optain graphite from pencils. Probably, You have some around. Just scrape some shavings from a pencil with a razor, and pour it into the nut slot. Put the string back, tune it up and You are done with it. Cheers... Bence Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pinch Posted May 7, 2015 Share Posted May 7, 2015 Pencils were some kind of prototype iPhone, right? Joking aside, thanks. Btw: I think I've found an easy solution. When taking the guitar out of the case and tuning up... don't. DE-tune the G string a half step or so, THEN tune up. I've only tried it once, but no annoying pings today. Tuned it above and below pitch just to check - no pings. Of course, once is anecdotal at best. We'll see :) Thanks again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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